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This thread and answers kinda make me laugh.. I'm from Iceland and the whole population is 356k. So for us the numbers talked about in this thread are high for us, not low and there are brewpubs all over the country here. I helped start a small 5-10b brewpub in a really remote location almost...

I dry hop loose and won't be changing that anytime soon, I chill my fermenter for 2-7 days depending on when I have time to keg. No issues with hop particles and great aroma and flavor.

Or draw off some wort into a smaller vessel and mix there, re-add to kettle

Totally get your point and that will be the next mod on my current kettle if I won't find anything worth investing in

I haven't contacted them because their website states they don't ship to Iceland but maybe it's worth a shot. Yeah they are doing one piece for me, I will ask them if they could do this also The SsBt one isn't perfect for me but it would be the most appropriate of the mass produced kettles...

Forgot to mention I don't want a sanke keg :)

I've got a vision for my perfect kettle and that would include a slightly conical bottom with a 1,5" tri clamp port on the bottom. Therefore it would need legs or some solution to stand. Are you guys aware of any kettles like this on the market? 15-20gal stainless only

Very interested, will try something like this!

Could also be affected by your water chemistry and grain bill, high amounts of very dark roasted grains can give you a bitter character which I think should age out but if it indeed is affected by water and too much hops then that is not likely to fade Could also be a culmination of multiple factors

Great point about adding gypsum to water - I've been adding water to it and stirring until it is well dissolved and added to strike. Should calcium chloride also be added to water and not add water to the calcium chloride?

I use a DIY version of the co2 harvester from NorCal and use a 3 piece since it's easier to clean but I don't have much preferences. The jars I have for the co2 system are 1,7L and therefore I'm not concerned about suckback while cooling and it works like a charm.

I measure my gypsum addition in a glass and then add some water and stir a little bit and add that while strike water is heating up. It's the first thing I do after I fill my vessel and start heating the strike. I do the same with calcium chloride. Then I use a small medicine plastic medicine...

Hi, I have this water report https://www.hsl.is/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Heildaruttekt-_Arborg_2018.pdf and I don't see anything in there in regards to alkalinity or bicarbonate. Is there any way to find out approximately from the information in the water report? Thanks!

Looking for something I don't have to screw on and off the faucet but rather something I can add

I saw this(attached picture) in a hotel bar in Amsterdam and thought it was clever for my brew room. Bartender could not help me where to find it and haven't had any luck on Google. Does somebody know where I might aquire it?

Hello everybody! What's the lowest populated town you know of with a commercial/craft brewery? In east Iceland there is a beautiful brewpub called Beljandi in the tiny town of Breiðdalsvík with a population of 139. Curious if this might be the smallest place on earth with a brewery :)

Fermentables Oxygen Pitch rate Temperature control

We have those QDs at lhbs, just kept cost down by using the barb instead. If it becomes a hassle to clean(here in Iceland we have endless 80-90° C water from the taps) with hot water stream through the top opening and the occasional PBW or chemipro Oxi cleaning I will add QDs to make cleaning...

Good to know, it's the only silicone hose my lhbs here in Iceland carries so that's what I'm using. Might ask the next time I'm there if they know if it's cured or not. Thanks!

The silicone tubing is rated to 320 Fahrenheit/160 Celsius and is marked medical grade, same as I've used on my pump setup, and no issues whatsoever but honestly don't know if it's plantinum cured or what that even is :D