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I did a similar thing a few months ago, but I fermented it in a single batch, then split into 5 1-gallon containers to secondary and dry hop. Not too much work and still got the result I wanted. I'm considering doing it again with 5 different hops.

I like this one a lot: http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt301wa.html Much cheaper than thermapen, and the only thing you lose is a tiny bit (like 0.2F for the normal temp range you would use in brewing) accuracy, and it is a few seconds slower. And the water proofness is pretty solid.

You could do that, the only issue is, the yeast will only last a few weeks. With slanting, they will last a year or more.

Check out Louisburg Cider Mill. Not too far away, and they use no preservatives.

You may want to check the Constitution again before you invoke it in an argument. Surprisingly little in there about privately run internet forums.

Except that it doesn't if your fermentor leaks. Even if both the above premises were true, and you had proved that fermentation -> airlock movement, than it still doesn't mean that airlock movement -> fermentation I do agree that others' assertion that "airlock movement isn't an indicator of...

What style of beer is it? Extract or all grain? I might just throw in my flavor/aroma hops now and be done. It would be less bitter than with a full 60 min boil, but shouldn't suffer any other ill effects. Unless... It is an all grain beer with lots of pilsner malt in it. Then you would...

This should be simple. Most PIDs have a built in relay that can switch a few amps, so you would only need to add the 3 way switch. However, why do it this way? Why not do it the Kal way and set your HLT temp to the mash temp and recirculate the whole time?

Did you use DME for priming? I've heard that this can cause a krausen ring in the bottle, but it wouldn't really make sense for only a single bottle to be affected. Could be an infection, if by "less beer-like" you mean maybe lighter bodied.

Nooo! http://www.chron.com/news/us/article/Shutdown-means-no-new-beer-from-craft-brewers-4880428.php

If this is something that really keeps you awake at night with worry, I would just buy two temp controllers. Wire them in series so they both have to be closed for the fridge to kick on. If they both fail closed at the same time, don't worry about your beer because you are also about to be hit...

Definitely do 10/4 cable (usually labeled as 10/3 with ground). The price difference is almost non-existent, and then you'll have that extra conductor there if you decide you want it.

With this kit any 1/2inch npt thermometer can be used, so no converting is necessary.

Thanks. That's weird. If the rest of the branch circuit is good for 20A, why would it be safe and/or desirable to install a 15A outlet?

Not electric brewing related, just general electricity question. Is this outlet a 15A or a 20A? It doesn't have the cross on the neutral plug, but over on the left side it says 125V 20A. You can't see it on the bottom, stamped on the metal just above the screw, it says 125V 15A. Probably...

You are exactly correct. They also make an analog temp controller that works the same way, and is a bit cheaper.

Thanks, good to know. I love me some hoppy beers. Didn't even notice the "preorder" button on Amazon. I had first heard of the book so long ago it didn't occur to me in wasn't out yet. Thanks

This. You can buy 32 oz of StarSan online for $16. So $0.50/oz undiluted, which is 10 cents per gallon of diluted solution. Also, even with boiling water, sanitization wouldn't be instant. Would the temp stay high enough long enough to be effective. I personally wouldn't want to risk it.

It looks like we have pretty middle of the road water. According to Palmer, we would have a mash pH of 5.75 with 100% base malt. To brew something like that you would want to lower the mash pH a bit, and for a beer with lots of dark roasted grains you would want to bump the pH up. A beer with a...