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I'm heading down the rabbit hole that is water chemistry, and I think some things are finally starting to click, but I'm not sure when to measure the mash pH using my BrewEasy system. Since it uses the full volume of water, I understand you need to account for that. When I mash in, I follow...

"Something that was brought up earlier but it was never resolved regarding the use of the orifice... There seems to be some relation to the flow capacity and efficiency, as well as getting mash temperatures up quicker. Would it be easier to just adjust the flow (using the new linear flow...

mbeall, I don't recall if I tasted it before the dry hopping. I did dry hop in the primary. My hops were 2013 crop purchased from a hop farm on ebay. I'd be really surprised if NB was sending out old hops. I had one batch of pale ale that had no hop aroma or flavor (NB Extra pale ale kit)...

I brewed the same recipe, but I did two 3-day dry hops with .8 oz Centennial each. 2 week primary, then 6 days of dry hopping, and it's been in the keg for about 10 days, and it has a crazy amount of aroma and hop flavor. I'm actually hoping it settles down, as it doesn't taste much like two...

I had a couple batches that stuck with the braid, which is why I got a false bottom. Well, that obviously didn't work for me, so after researching manifolds, braids, bazookas, and false bottoms, I went back to the braid, and have had a couple uneventful sparges. I don't know what the problem...

I went back to using a ss braid since I batch sparge. When I was trying think of a way to mod the cooler, the best idea I came up with was to drill a hole(s) in the bottom of the exterior, and try to glue or epoxy the interior bottom the the exterior bottom, so it wouldn't done up...if that...

I have a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler, and on mine the bottom of the cooler "domes up" when I put hot water in it, and completely seals the false bottom fitting to it. Maybe put some hot water in it and see if that's what is happening to you? Good luck! Pat

Good to know the MO would be fine...doesn't sound like I can go wrong either way! I guess I just need to pick one, and go with it

I was planning on brewing Yooper's 'Hoppy American Amber or Malty American Pale Ale?', but the LHBS didn't have any Golden Naked Oats, so I reverted back to just doing Jamil's West Coast Blaster, which is what Yooper's is based on (I believe). Anyway, Jamil calls for British pale ale malt, and...

I started with the plastic paddle shown earlier in the thread. It was ok. Then, I got one of the 24" whisks. WAY better!

What is the reason for a 90 minute boil? I thought that was generally for pils malt to eliminate DMS? Thanks! Pat

I have one that came with my kegerator. It's been fine for the last 6 years. Pat

PJoyce85, would you recommend steeping only the roasted malts separately, or all the specialty grains?

I made this realization just a couple weeks ago...A while back, I made NB's Dry Irish Stout extract recipe, and thought I screwed up, because it was very harsh and bitter. Then a guy in our homebrew club made the all-grain kit. I tried that, and it was pretty much the same. I couldn't believe...

This seems to be the one that people keep recommending. I use a cordless DeWalt too, so I don't have any direct experience with this one... http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

I have yet to do a lager myself, but I think I can help on a few points...I'm sure if I'm wrong, someone will correct me! Lagering is just cold storage, so I would skip secondary, and rack to a corny, and put it in your kegerator, if you have room. I think you want to lager cold, like mid...

Talked to Monster, and he said the 'pits' happen occasionally, and he said is wouldn't affect the performance or longevity of the mill. He added that if I were to have any wear issues with it in the future, they would gladly replace the rollers. Based on that, I decided just to keep it.

ThreeGnomes, I sent an email to MM to see what they have to say. I'm guessing it will work great for as long as I'm brewing, but I guess when I buy something, I just want it to be perfect, lol!

Good to know that's typical. I guess my bigger concern now is the knurling. I talked with a coworker who used to be a machinist, and he explained the little divots on the knurls. Apparently either they didn't knurl deep enough to make a point, possibly because the diameter of the stock was...

I just got a Monster Mill with the same 'issue'...emailed the company to see if this is a defect, or not. I started a new thread regarding this, but I'll try to respond to this thread too, when I get an answer. pat