Search results

Growler is the same size as a 2L flask

Had this exact problem this weekend for an 11g batch of porter. Thought I had a solution when one found a 1g glass jug of apple juice at the store, but it had a slight hump at the base that made it impossible to keep the stir bar in place.

Count me in if this happens again.

Not sure if it meets your need, but I have one of MoreBeer's "heavy duty" 8 gallon pots with a ball valve and thermometer. It's a tank (and barely used). Hit me up if you're interested. I'm in Carlsbad.

With respect to the "crisp" hop flavor and mild bitterness, you may also consider using a smaller charge of a clean bittering hop like magnum or warrrior, a bigger percentage of late-addition hops, and various strategies to get better attenuation.

Congrats on the jump. IMO, some sort of software is critical. Manually calculating mash and sparge volumes, preboil gravity, etc. would be a major PITA. I highly recommend Beersmith. It does everything you need and more. Check out the free trial and compare it to something like Brewer's...

Thanks, Floyd. Good info. I try to pitch at or below fermentation temps. The problem I describe generally happens after the first couple of days (when the fermentation is not producing as much heat). I have read many of the forums on this issue, and it's not clear to me how others are keeping...

Thanks, 02fx. Do you have dual-stage temp control (i.e., both heat and cold)? If not, how do you keep the beer from dropping down too low when freezer kicks on and drops the ambient temp 10+ degrees below the desired beer temp? Perhaps this is a climate-specific problem. I am near the coast...

Sounds like you have a healthy fermentation going! Let us know how the beer turns out.

Then I disagree with the consensus. If you insulate the probe and attach it to the carboy, it will cause a big temp drop in the freezer, which will eventually cause the beer to drop too low. Example: controller setpoint is 67 with a 1 degree differential. Beer gets to 67 and the freezer kicks...

Interesting perspective. No doubt that common sense should prevail. Don't go crazy adding a massive amounts of salts. That said, John Palmer and others highlight the importance of the chloride to sulfate ratio in designing water to match the beer style. In my experience, it makes a big difference.

Consider the chloride to sulfate ratio as well as total calcium. I think you want to be in the neighborhood of 3:1 sulfate to chloride for a hoppy beer. And calcium should be north of 50ppm for healthy fermentation. So you may want to add calcium sulfate (gypsum) and calcium chloride in the...

Welcome! What's the last beer you brewed?

Agree. If you don't use an external controller, then tape a temp probe to the carboy. You will have to watch the temp like a hawk, particularly during the first 2-3 days of fermentation, and frequently adjust the temp of the fridge to keep the beer where you want it. Even if you use an...

I'm generally trying to pitch as much as possible, so I've never tried that. Even when I'm low on head space, I'll just throw on a blowoff. But it should work. If you only saved a small amount, you might wanna step it up once to increase the volume of yeasties.

Biggest one is Quaff. They meet in Mission Valley, which is 15-20 mins from PB. One of the best homebrew clubs in the country (world?).

Should be fine. Some people say you shouldn't ferment in an aluminum container because the low beer ph may cause leeching (resulting in metallic off flavors, etc). But I doubt that a piece that small will cause any problems.

An interesting blog post on this topic: http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/

Thanks. Glad to hear it.

Set to brew a 1.065 IPA tomorrow. Made a 2L starter on Wednesday, which I planned to chill and decant before pitching. When I checked the stir plate last night, the foil had blown off and there was some slurry on the counter. I'm worried because the erlenmeyer sat uncovered for 1-2 hours. Ditch it?