Recent content by splashmike

As others have said, the lack of "oopmpf" can be style dependent. If the beer is thin, you can try the following to add some body: (i) carapils; (ii) thicker mash; (iii) higher mash temp. If the hops are not where you want, you can try some water adjustments to see if you can tweak the impact...

If you have the Jaybird false bottom, check out the dip tubes they sell. You definitely want to pull from below the false bottom. You will have much less dead space and have a more efficient mash.

Your post implies you do not currently have a dip tube, so I'm curious as to how you are getting the wort out of the mash tun (i.e., drawing from the area below the false bottom).

I have been brewing for about 10 years; all grain the last 7 or so, and am looking to work on the Ph of my mash. I have obtained a water report from Ward labs, and have been using the Colorphast brand of Ph test strips to test the Ph of my mash, but I'm not sure I'm getting accurate readings...

Posts are clean. That's not the issue. Not sure what you mean by a well balanced system, though.

My mistake, I meant 3/16ths. Interesting that you guys are going to 10 feet. I guess I could invest in a little more tubing and see if that works. Not sure why folks are still taking about 5 feet.

I have a 3 tap kegerator hooked to a 5lbs Co2 tank. My beer is generally carbed at 11 psi and the kegerator is kept at about 34 degrees F. I have used various legnths of 5/16 in beer line (from 4 -8 feet) to try and remove excess foaming but regardless of legnth I get excessive foam. I...

Why "next time"? Why not purge the co2 now and then lower the psi? It should off gas and equalize at the lower psi settling.

Carbonation may help add a little body and time may help bring out some of the flavors. But otherwise, I think you would have to address "lack of body" issues earlier in the process. I've started adding a quarter to a half a pound of carapils to my grainbill to address the "thin" issue in some...

Thanks for the tip. I have had problems with the Dupont strain and may give this a try on my next saison or Belgian pale.

60 degrees is quite cold for the 002 strain,especially when you started at 66 degrees. That yeast shuts down quickly when it drops in temp and you are now definitely below the sweet spot in terms of fermentation temp for that strain. Not sure a d rest would do much at this point but if you do it...

I have used both and prefer the wyeast at version. the White Labs version produced some significant sulfer and left a wine like taste. It did clear up after several weeks of cold conditioning, but I found the wyeast at much easier to work with.

Thanks. Seems like I need to keep playing with the set up.

Have recently moved to a direct fire mash in a keg recirculating with a March pump. I seem to be getting a lot of air in the pump which degrades the pumping capacity. I have to keep jiggling the lines to get it flowing. A picture of my set up is attached. Any suggestions on how to eliminate...

Great reply. Thanks. I'm assuming that as to the additional gypsum for the best bitter recipe that additional gypsum is not needed if its already part of the mash/sparge water additions. Mike