Recent content by Protto

Of course you can. As long as the switch can take the voltage and current.

Your available current on the 10A circuits will be more like 16A(from each tree phase leg) / 1.73 = 9.25A. That gives you 9.25A X 230V = 2127.5W on each 10A circuit, resulting in a total of 6382.5W (3 x 2127.5W) drawn from your 16A three phase breaker. The current in each of the three phases...

Why do you think you need the neutral? Is there any 110v equipment in there at all? You only need to connect the two hot legs and ground as far as I can read this. By the way, in other countries it is common to laber the two hot legs L and N. Has nothing to do with the neutral in your 110v...

Autotuning works best when you have as real-life conditions as you can. Generally you have aprox the same flow from batch to batch. You may have a little more or less grains and total water, but that won't affect things to much, as long as you don't have your probe in the middle of the mash. It...

Did you autotune after installing the new element? It may have similar amount of power, but might have higher thermal mass. That could affect things. Any little change may need a following autotune.

No problem with pot sensing as long as you keep the distance from the coil to the glass (or pot) as close to original as possible. As for connecting it to three phase, thats pretty straight forward. Three phase have no neutral, just three wires, L1, L2 and L3. There is 230v between any two of...

Haha, thought that might get your attention. It's three 2kw induction cookers that I disassembled and mounted in a custom box. I did that to get the coils close enough to be covered by a 80qt stainless pot. The cookers are connected in three phase and supplied by a 3x16A service. I actually...

I run a 6Kw induction cooker on 230vac threephase. What's not homebrew about that?

The sensor in your link is already sitting in a thermowell. The SS sheathing of the probe is the thermowell, the sensor is inside. Empty thermowells can be used when you have a "bare" sensor, or a sensor that is not suited for the environment to be meashured.

I have one that has a 4.5m long, 8mm OD copper coil, 2kw element. It has a PT-100 on the wort out and is put into a stainless thermos. PID controlled and keeps mash temp within 0.1-0.2 degr C. It has less than 2L water in it so it is really fast-acting. IMO it is the best from both RIMS and...

Just to clarify, the light and element needs to be in paralel not in series, if that was your inension. One end to SSR and the other end to your neutral leg. For both the lamp and element.

Yes very low current. The only way is to use a lamp that has a high enough wattage to not light up when the SSR is on. -Or use a indicator lamp/LED on the low volt side of the SSR. The heatingelement will only give milliWatts when SSR is off as it will pull down the open cirquit voltage you...

Assuming your element is in series with your active light. The SSR is not a physical switch as your symbol might indicate and even in an off state it has a small leakage current that will give a readable voltage on your meter. Some indicator lights may even light up from this leakage current.

Well maybe not a datasheet but it provides some info: http://no.mouser.com/catalog/English/102/1595.pdf I made the assumption that the input was resistive. Ether way you'll need a current source 4-20mA that can source 6v. Mabe you could use a step-up converter (DC-DC converter), from 5-10v...

It says in the datasheet input should drop 6v at 20mA at max power. Input resistance should then be: 6v/0.02A=300Ohms. It should just turn on at 4mA. i.e. 0.004Ax300Ohm=1.2v 50% power approx: (20mA+4mA)/2=12mA ==> 0.012Ax300Ohm=3.6v And max power 6v according to datasheet. So you'll need a...