Recent content by bu_gee

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

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    Sanitizing new bottles prior to bottling - current recommendations?

    Agreed. There are a lot of variables happening here and you'd better believe that commercial operations are not taking this risk and are sanitizing or pasteurizing bottles. At the end of the day you decide what level of risk you're willing to take and know that even 9,999 out of 10,000 is not...
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    Did I ruin my first pils attempt ?

    Interesting. Altitude also fits that condition.
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    Sanitizing new bottles prior to bottling - current recommendations?

    It could also be sulfates and I'm telling people to poison themselves with sulfites. Don't use any of this as advice. :no:
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    Sanitizing new bottles prior to bottling - current recommendations?

    True. In my opinion, without any data to back it up, I think it was more a way to help preserve the natural wood cork than it was to sanitize the bottle. That being said, wine is particularly susceptible to a specific group of microbes that turn the alcohol into vinegar. In my reading about...
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    Did I ruin my first pils attempt ?

    This got me thinking: I can't find the thread anymore, but the claim was that the DMS in your beer was inversely proportional to the amount of copper in your water. That is, if your water is freakishly low in copper, DMS is more likely. The proposed solution was to throw pennies into the...
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    Did I ruin my first pils attempt ?

    Much agreed that it is good data helps us understand what actual problems exist, but I would note that almost every DMS problem I've seen reported on these forums has involved pils malt, but the plural of anecdote isn't data. What it does imply to me, however, is that pils does require a...
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    Sanitizing new bottles prior to bottling - current recommendations?

    A vinator/sulfiter is meant to be used with wine where they add sufates and use that to coat the inside of the bottles as a sanitizer. It is effective, but it isn't generally used in beer making I'm guessing because the sulfates taste bad and beer can't cover it up like wine can. I use a...
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    Sanitizing new bottles prior to bottling - current recommendations?

    You're way more likely to infect your bottle from your hand by touching the top lip of your bottle than you are to from properly treated tap water. There is a lot of "somebody might experience this so nobody should do it" going on in these forums. For general advice, particularly to a beginner...
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    Did I ruin my first pils attempt ?

    It isn't a myth. I've had it happen. My LHBS only sells one brand of each type of base malt so I don't have much choice in malts unless I want.to buy 55 lb bags, which I'm not at that stage. What size batches do you brew? I'm beginning to wonder if that has any bearing on DMS production and...
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    Buying suitable and already diluted phosphoric acid

    This is food grade phosphoric acid. The NSF certification on the sheet is actually a pretty big deal in terms of food safety. Several people on the forums recommend Duda Diesel as a good source for phosphoric acid.
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    Buying suitable and already diluted phosphoric acid

    For reference, here is the certificate of analysis for the food grade phosphoric acid from Duda Diesel: https://www.dudadiesel.com/msds/phosphoricFGCOA.pdf From what I can tell, the amounts listed in this document are higher than the ones you've listed above. I don't really know what that...
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    Buying suitable and already diluted phosphoric acid

    Remember to always add acid to water and not the other way around. Most acid dilution reactions are exothermic so if you add water to the acid, you risk generating heat that the acid can't absorb and it can flash boil the water you add and splatter the acid. I find that your average PET soda...
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    Buying suitable and already diluted phosphoric acid

    This thread from nearly a decade ago also discusses this and seems to indicate that I've been a fool. :p I just did a quick search and I can get a gallon (3.78L) of 75% H3PO4 for about $40. I would prefer closer to 1 L or 500 ml, but at least it is a reference.
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    Buying suitable and already diluted phosphoric acid

    Is there a similar analysis of the Saniclean? I'm not sure that these are actual levels as much as the minimum sensitivity of their quality control process.
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    Alcoholic taste prior to bottling

    I do agree that it won't go away completely, but whenever I have had this problem, I leave the beer on the yeast cake for an extra week and then put it in a secondary for another week or two and it seems to help some. If you carb it a little more aggressively, the carbonic acid bite will help...
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