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Agreed. There are a lot of variables happening here and you'd better believe that commercial operations are not taking this risk and are sanitizing or pasteurizing bottles. At the end of the day you decide what level of risk you're willing to take and know that even 9,999 out of 10,000 is not...

Interesting. Altitude also fits that condition.

It could also be sulfates and I'm telling people to poison themselves with sulfites. Don't use any of this as advice. :no:

True. In my opinion, without any data to back it up, I think it was more a way to help preserve the natural wood cork than it was to sanitize the bottle. That being said, wine is particularly susceptible to a specific group of microbes that turn the alcohol into vinegar. In my reading about...

This got me thinking: I can't find the thread anymore, but the claim was that the DMS in your beer was inversely proportional to the amount of copper in your water. That is, if your water is freakishly low in copper, DMS is more likely. The proposed solution was to throw pennies into the...

Much agreed that it is good data helps us understand what actual problems exist, but I would note that almost every DMS problem I've seen reported on these forums has involved pils malt, but the plural of anecdote isn't data. What it does imply to me, however, is that pils does require a...

A vinator/sulfiter is meant to be used with wine where they add sufates and use that to coat the inside of the bottles as a sanitizer. It is effective, but it isn't generally used in beer making I'm guessing because the sulfates taste bad and beer can't cover it up like wine can. I use a...

You're way more likely to infect your bottle from your hand by touching the top lip of your bottle than you are to from properly treated tap water. There is a lot of "somebody might experience this so nobody should do it" going on in these forums. For general advice, particularly to a beginner...

It isn't a myth. I've had it happen. My LHBS only sells one brand of each type of base malt so I don't have much choice in malts unless I want.to buy 55 lb bags, which I'm not at that stage. What size batches do you brew? I'm beginning to wonder if that has any bearing on DMS production and...

This is food grade phosphoric acid. The NSF certification on the sheet is actually a pretty big deal in terms of food safety. Several people on the forums recommend Duda Diesel as a good source for phosphoric acid.

For reference, here is the certificate of analysis for the food grade phosphoric acid from Duda Diesel: https://www.dudadiesel.com/msds/phosphoricFGCOA.pdf From what I can tell, the amounts listed in this document are higher than the ones you've listed above. I don't really know what that...

Remember to always add acid to water and not the other way around. Most acid dilution reactions are exothermic so if you add water to the acid, you risk generating heat that the acid can't absorb and it can flash boil the water you add and splatter the acid. I find that your average PET soda...

This thread from nearly a decade ago also discusses this and seems to indicate that I've been a fool. :p I just did a quick search and I can get a gallon (3.78L) of 75% H3PO4 for about $40. I would prefer closer to 1 L or 500 ml, but at least it is a reference.

Is there a similar analysis of the Saniclean? I'm not sure that these are actual levels as much as the minimum sensitivity of their quality control process.

I do agree that it won't go away completely, but whenever I have had this problem, I leave the beer on the yeast cake for an extra week and then put it in a secondary for another week or two and it seems to help some. If you carb it a little more aggressively, the carbonic acid bite will help...

Sorry I'm late to the show, and probably too late to offer actionable advice, but when I brewed my tripel about 4 years ago I had a yeast massacre on my hands and I ended up with only partially carbonated beer. I don't know if the yeast died from the alcohol they produced or if the 6 week...

I would definitely look for food grade. Food grade usually means that they avoid (cheaper) production processes that could end up with toxic or dangerous sides products. That being said, products intended for sanitization also have surfactants and pH buffers, among other chemicals that help it...

Yeah, I presume that is the whole reasoning behind all the no-rinse recommendations. Not only are you opening up new opportunities for microorganisms, as low as it is, you're making work for yourself removing something that is already in beer. The latter is why I don't rinse Star San...

There is much ado about rinsing after sanitizing, but those who don't use Star San more or less have to rinse since those alternative chemicals are known to be harmful or are known to affect the quality of the beer. Before I started using Star San I rinsed the bottles and all my equipment with...

Pils just requires that to take extra precaution against DMS. This may mean a longer boil to force off the compounds, but it isn't 100% clear that it makes for a major difference. The most important thing is that you have to cool it off quickly to keep the compounds from forming again as it...