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I've been posting about this topic a lot lately, it seems that many brewers want to harvest yeast from some of their favorite commercial breweries. some really good craft breweries bottle condition a few of their brews with what seems like a gift to us home brewers. Rogue and Bell's are the two that immediately come into my mind when it comes to an easy harvest. for this blog, i'll be demonstrating how to harvest yeast from 4 bottles of Bell's Amber Ale. my wife and i both love Bell's beer, quite a few of their offerings are regulars in our home. First off, you'll want to get yourself a 6 pack of the beer you'll be harvesting from. make sure you know the beer has enough viable yeast, and that it's the strain you seek. many breweries...

Brewing safety is not just for the protection of the brewers but goes hand-in-hand with the quality of your finished liquid beverage. Brewing safety discussed here includes proper clothing and proper working environment, and how they help to guard an employee or brewer against potential chemical dangers. Brewing quality includes clothing, environment, instrumentation, monitoring, recording, observing, ingredients, etc. Here we will discuss the safety precautions that any home brewer may consider for their safety and for the safety of others, as well as some basic quality issues to consider. I. Brewing Safety: Photo 1. Rubber gloves, lab coat and protective eyewear. Basic protective attire is readily available at the grocery store or...

Brewing safety is not just for the protection of the brewers but goes hand-in-hand with the quality of your finished liquid beverage. Brewing safety discussed here includes proper clothing and proper working environment, and how they help to guard an employee or brewer against potential chemical dangers. Brewing quality includes clothing, environment, instrumentation, monitoring, recording, observing, ingredients, etc. Here we will discuss the safety precautions that any home brewer may consider for their safety and for the safety of others, as well as some basic quality issues to consider. I. Brewing Safety: Photo 1. Rubber gloves, lab coat and protective eyewear. Basic protective attire is readily available at the grocery store or...

The Best Little Brewfest in Texas www.BLBFIT.com held at the amazing Texas Motor Speedway in Ft. Worth is just 2 weeks away. We will have 50+ craft brewers and over 120 beers, many of which will be "one off's" and new releases. There will be a "Draft Wall of Courage" with nearly 20 craft brews that will challenge your taste buds and knowledge of brewing chemistry! Brewers are coming from all over Texas including the greater Houston and Austin areas. Some have never had their beers in the DFW area ever before! For the designated driver and non-beer lover we have hard ciders and tea. Cold water and sodas will also be readily available at the many food vendors. We are planning on 4,000 tasters including 500 VIP attendees. VIP will have...

The Best Little Brewfest in Texas www.BLBFIT.com held at the amazing Texas Motor Speedway in Ft. Worth is just 2 weeks away. We will have 50+ craft brewers and over 120 beers, many of which will be "one off's" and new releases. There will be a "Draft Wall of Courage" with nearly 20 craft brews that will challenge your taste buds and knowledge of brewing chemistry! Brewers are coming from all over Texas including the greater Houston and Austin areas. Some have never had their beers in the DFW area ever before! For the designated driver and non-beer lover we have hard ciders and tea. Cold water and sodas will also be readily available at the many food vendors. We are planning on 4,000 tasters including 500 VIP attendees. VIP will have...

This morning I walked in to my "brew (fermentation) room", the fourth bedroom filled with accumulated junk, elated with the very lovely aroma of beer brewing only to find that the ceiling and walls were covered in yeast froth. The air-lock was clear across the room; my first blow out in twenty batches of beer since I began this addictive hobby last December of 2011. I had heard of the occurrence but had somehow avoided it. Perhaps I can chalk this one up to improved techniques in pitching yeast, preparing the yeast for pitch (this one being a Nottingham dry yeast re-hydrated in approximately 10 times its weight of sterile water), or worse yet, pitching at nearly 80*F then not getting the temp down fast enough. The pitch was the morning...

This morning I walked in to my "brew (fermentation) room", the fourth bedroom filled with accumulated junk, elated with the very lovely aroma of beer brewing only to find that the ceiling and walls were covered in yeast froth. The air-lock was clear across the room; my first blow out in twenty batches of beer since I began this addictive hobby last December of 2011. I had heard of the occurrence but had somehow avoided it. Perhaps I can chalk this one up to improved techniques in pitching yeast, preparing the yeast for pitch (this one being a Nottingham dry yeast re-hydrated in approximately 10 times its weight of sterile water), or worse yet, pitching at nearly 80*F then not getting the temp down fast enough. The pitch was the morning...

Early this morning I brewed a Chocolate Oatmeal Stout. This is the first 12-gallon batch on "my" system. I possess a 14.5 gallon conical fermenter, so why not fill it? Since it was my first big batch, it was not without problems and a lot of learning. I learned a valuable lesson about combing 24.75 lbs of grain along with 8 gallons of water into a 10 gallon mash tun. It worked, but just barely. Surprisingly, I achieved 86% efficiency, as compared to my usual 74%. This is fantastic, except the beer is now not within style. Oh well. I also learned that multi-batch sparging (more than my usual 5 gallon 1 batch sparge - due to the mash tun volume), when you only have one burner, means having to lift a very heavy brew kettle onto the burner...

Early this morning I brewed a Chocolate Oatmeal Stout. This is the first 12-gallon batch on "my" system. I possess a 14.5 gallon conical fermenter, so why not fill it? Since it was my first big batch, it was not without problems and a lot of learning. I learned a valuable lesson about combing 24.75 lbs of grain along with 8 gallons of water into a 10 gallon mash tun. It worked, but just barely. Surprisingly, I achieved 86% efficiency, as compared to my usual 74%. This is fantastic, except the beer is now not within style. Oh well. I also learned that multi-batch sparging (more than my usual 5 gallon 1 batch sparge - due to the mash tun volume), when you only have one burner, means having to lift a very heavy brew kettle onto the burner...

Manufacturer - Better Bottle 6 US Gallon Better Bottle

Manufacturer - Better Bottle 6 US Gallon Better Bottle

i've seen a lot of posts recently with the OP asking if his/her fermentation temps are too low. most of the time, their ambient temps are a bit low, but considering the exothermic properties of fermentation, they're actually fermenting right in the desired range for the yeast they're using. occasionally the OP is actually fermenting a few degrees below the manufacturer's suggested temp range. which, in my experience, is a vague guideline they set for 'optimum' yeast performance. i have some thoughts and experience on the subject of fermenting below recommended temps. by below i mean actual wort temps, and not ambient. since very early on in my brewing, i learned the importance of fermenting any brew within the yeast strain's specified...

i've seen a lot of posts recently with the OP asking if his/her fermentation temps are too low. most of the time, their ambient temps are a bit low, but considering the exothermic properties of fermentation, they're actually fermenting right in the desired range for the yeast they're using. occasionally the OP is actually fermenting a few degrees below the manufacturer's suggested temp range. which, in my experience, is a vague guideline they set for 'optimum' yeast performance. i have some thoughts and experience on the subject of fermenting below recommended temps. by below i mean actual wort temps, and not ambient. since very early on in my brewing, i learned the importance of fermenting any brew within the yeast strain's specified...

6.5 gallon glass (dangerous if dropped, but well trusted and retro!)

6.5 gallon glass (dangerous if dropped, but well trusted and retro!)

Manufacturer - (generic) This is a standard 6.5gal plastic bucket, branded as Ale Pail, for brewing ales, lagers, ciders, etc. May be sold with or without a bottling spigot. High quality from The "Ale Pail". This unit came complete with snap on lid drilled for a grommet (included) and a lifting bail. The interior was clean, smooth and scratch/mold mark free. Sanitizing will be a breeze. I am looking forward to my first batch in the new fermentor. A word to the wise though. If you can find one with a spigot you would be better served to get that since it reduces the possibility of aerating your beer when transferring to bottles or secondary fermenters. A minor issue that can be readily fixed when the time comes and the fermentor is...

Manufacturer - (generic) This is a standard 6.5gal plastic bucket, branded as Ale Pail, for brewing ales, lagers, ciders, etc. May be sold with or without a bottling spigot. High quality from The "Ale Pail". This unit came complete with snap on lid drilled for a grommet (included) and a lifting bail. The interior was clean, smooth and scratch/mold mark free. Sanitizing will be a breeze. I am looking forward to my first batch in the new fermentor. A word to the wise though. If you can find one with a spigot you would be better served to get that since it reduces the possibility of aerating your beer when transferring to bottles or secondary fermenters. A minor issue that can be readily fixed when the time comes and the fermentor is...

Company Website - http://www.igloocommercial.com/products/WaterCoolers/400Series/177/ Manufacturer - Igloo Igloo delivers cold, clean water. Rugged, durable Igloo 400 Series Industrial Strength Water Coolers keep water cold, clean and available. Built for the Real World, the 400 Series takes the abuse of the toughest job site and the most punishing work crews. Red and Yellow high visibility safety colors. HDPE hide won't chip, peel, buckle or rust. Ultratherm insulation for maximum cold retention. UV stabilizers prevent fading, cracking in all exposures. White FDA Grade inner liner is easy to clean and resists stains and odors. Wide mouth pressure fit lid for easy filling. Keeper cord prevents lid loss. Reinforced handles and cup...

Company Website - http://www.igloocommercial.com/products/WaterCoolers/400Series/177/ Manufacturer - Igloo Igloo delivers cold, clean water. Rugged, durable Igloo 400 Series Industrial Strength Water Coolers keep water cold, clean and available. Built for the Real World, the 400 Series takes the abuse of the toughest job site and the most punishing work crews. Red and Yellow high visibility safety colors. HDPE hide won't chip, peel, buckle or rust. Ultratherm insulation for maximum cold retention. UV stabilizers prevent fading, cracking in all exposures. White FDA Grade inner liner is easy to clean and resists stains and odors. Wide mouth pressure fit lid for easy filling. Keeper cord prevents lid loss. Reinforced handles and cup...

Manufacturer - Better Bottle, Div. High-Q Inc. Price Payed: $30.00 Recommended? Yes Pros: Unbreakable, lightweight, cost only slightly more than glass Cons: they melt, they can scratch Better-Bottle fermentation carboys are: 1) Unbreakable and tough, 2) Taste- and Odor-free, 3) Virtually impermeable to oxygen, 4) Clear and colorless, 5) Incredibly lightweight, and more . . . They are made from special, scientifically tested, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) copolymer plastic that is non-absorbing, non-porous, and non-wetting (hydrophobic), so it does not carry over flavors from one batch of wine or beer to the next and it is easy to clean and sanitize. Optional, racking adapters and valves make oxygen-free racking and...

Manufacturer - Better Bottle, Div. High-Q Inc. Price Payed: $30.00 Recommended? Yes Pros: Unbreakable, lightweight, cost only slightly more than glass Cons: they melt, they can scratch Better-Bottle fermentation carboys are: 1) Unbreakable and tough, 2) Taste- and Odor-free, 3) Virtually impermeable to oxygen, 4) Clear and colorless, 5) Incredibly lightweight, and more . . . They are made from special, scientifically tested, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) copolymer plastic that is non-absorbing, non-porous, and non-wetting (hydrophobic), so it does not carry over flavors from one batch of wine or beer to the next and it is easy to clean and sanitize. Optional, racking adapters and valves make oxygen-free racking and...

In my stove top system I used my kettle for the protein and sach rests. Many will say the protein rest is unnecessary, but I figure it can't hurt anything so I do it anyway. After the rests and mash I sparged strait out of my kettle. The wort was collected in a boil pot and so on. I did not use a separate lauter tun. The pros to this was the obvious simplicity and cost savings. After all, good brewing equipment isn't cheap. Once I decided I really enjoyed and wanted to commit to this hobby, I started taking stock of the equipment I wasn't familiar with. The piece I was least familiar with is the Lauter Tun. I understood the principles of sparging to some degree, but not the mechanics of the Tun. I found that there were two...

In my stove top system I used my kettle for the protein and sach rests. Many will say the protein rest is unnecessary, but I figure it can't hurt anything so I do it anyway. After the rests and mash I sparged strait out of my kettle. The wort was collected in a boil pot and so on. I did not use a separate lauter tun. The pros to this was the obvious simplicity and cost savings. After all, good brewing equipment isn't cheap. Once I decided I really enjoyed and wanted to commit to this hobby, I started taking stock of the equipment I wasn't familiar with. The piece I was least familiar with is the Lauter Tun. I understood the principles of sparging to some degree, but not the mechanics of the Tun. I found that there were two...

Well, this isn't the beginning of my brewing experience. I have 15 Gal of mead & melowmels as well as 5 Gal of an extract Amber and 10 Gal of All Grain beers behind me. Somehow all of them have came out sucessfuly, knock on wood of course. But, up-til-now, I've been brewing 5 Gal batches and working in a kitchen using not much more than a 10 Gal brew pot and a 17 Gal dimijon. This Christmas I began the process to upgrade to a 10 Gal system. So this is the beginning of a whole new experiance, as far as I'm concerned. I thought it would be good to chronicle the process. Maybe some other beginners can learn from my mistakes along the way. To start with, I should thank my wife. She "gifted" me all of the materials needed to upgrade...

Well, this isn't the beginning of my brewing experience. I have 15 Gal of mead & melowmels as well as 5 Gal of an extract Amber and 10 Gal of All Grain beers behind me. Somehow all of them have came out sucessfuly, knock on wood of course. But, up-til-now, I've been brewing 5 Gal batches and working in a kitchen using not much more than a 10 Gal brew pot and a 17 Gal dimijon. This Christmas I began the process to upgrade to a 10 Gal system. So this is the beginning of a whole new experiance, as far as I'm concerned. I thought it would be good to chronicle the process. Maybe some other beginners can learn from my mistakes along the way. To start with, I should thank my wife. She "gifted" me all of the materials needed to upgrade...

As mentioned in the previous entries, I'm brewing a kit of Brewer's Best Dunkelweizen So things went pretty much according to the instructions in the kit. I took a handful of pics but wish I had a few more of the steps and a good shot of the OG reading. (1) Activated Wyeast 3333 German Wheat yeast packet 3 hours before intended usage. At same time, put 1 gallon of spring water in fridge for later cooldown during final water add/dilution/top-off. (2) Sanitized everything with a solution made from a C-bright powder pouch that came with the True Brew kit. (3) Poured 2.5 jugs of the spring water into the pot and heated to 155F. (4) Began steeping the chocolate and munich malts. Temperature fluctuated between 155-165F over the 20 minute...

As mentioned in the previous entries, I'm brewing a kit of Brewer's Best Dunkelweizen So things went pretty much according to the instructions in the kit. I took a handful of pics but wish I had a few more of the steps and a good shot of the OG reading. (1) Activated Wyeast 3333 German Wheat yeast packet 3 hours before intended usage. At same time, put 1 gallon of spring water in fridge for later cooldown during final water add/dilution/top-off. (2) Sanitized everything with a solution made from a C-bright powder pouch that came with the True Brew kit. (3) Poured 2.5 jugs of the spring water into the pot and heated to 155F. (4) Began steeping the chocolate and munich malts. Temperature fluctuated between 155-165F over the 20 minute...

I came across an interesting discussion the other day, whose topic was -Why are German beers so different from their commercial American counterparts? Short answer : Reinheitsgebot! (sneeze!) Reinheitsgebot is one of the first and oldest consumer protection laws ever passed. It is usually referred to as the German beer purity law and was first proposed in 1487 (no typo!) and passed into law in the year of our Lord 1516. It simply stated that it was illegal to put anything except water, barley, and hops into beer. It was updated and amended into the Provisional German Beer Law which allowed the additions of yeast, wheat malt, and sugar cane (but banned unmalted barley). It has served to protect the German brewing traditions...

I came across an interesting discussion the other day, whose topic was -Why are German beers so different from their commercial American counterparts? Short answer : Reinheitsgebot! (sneeze!) Reinheitsgebot is one of the first and oldest consumer protection laws ever passed. It is usually referred to as the German beer purity law and was first proposed in 1487 (no typo!) and passed into law in the year of our Lord 1516. It simply stated that it was illegal to put anything except water, barley, and hops into beer. It was updated and amended into the Provisional German Beer Law which allowed the additions of yeast, wheat malt, and sugar cane (but banned unmalted barley). It has served to protect the German brewing traditions...

From a post to the Mr. Beer page on the Newbie forum: Quote: Originally Posted by Justibone If you don't have a hydrometer, you can make a crude one using a shot glass and a Sharpie. Float the shot glass in half-gallon pitcher, see where the water is, and mark it at the water line. (If it doesn't float properly, you can add "ballast" of a few nickels or quarters.) Fully dissolve a half-cup of sugar in the half-gallon of water, then float the shot glass again and mark the line. Do that with 1 cup, 1.5 cups, and then 2 cups. That gives you lines at 4 oz, 8 oz, 12 oz and 16 oz of sugar per half gallon. Plain water is 1.000, your second line is about 1.023, your third line is about 1.046, your fourth line is about...

From a post to the Mr. Beer page on the Newbie forum: Quote: Originally Posted by Justibone If you don't have a hydrometer, you can make a crude one using a shot glass and a Sharpie. Float the shot glass in half-gallon pitcher, see where the water is, and mark it at the water line. (If it doesn't float properly, you can add "ballast" of a few nickels or quarters.) Fully dissolve a half-cup of sugar in the half-gallon of water, then float the shot glass again and mark the line. Do that with 1 cup, 1.5 cups, and then 2 cups. That gives you lines at 4 oz, 8 oz, 12 oz and 16 oz of sugar per half gallon. Plain water is 1.000, your second line is about 1.023, your third line is about 1.046, your fourth line is about...

Killing Four Recipes with One Mash Monday, October 3, 2011 7:44 PM Finding time to brew has been challenging lately. You all know how it is, so many beer ideas, never enough time to brew them all. To counter this I decided I was going to kill four birds with one stone. I put together a recipe for 10 gallons of milk stout, which is essentially a stout with the addition of lactose during the boil. Lactose is a milk sugar and is mostly unfermentable by yeast resulting in a finished beer that is sweeter. After primary fermentation, I will divide up the 10 gallons to create four different beers. My rum oak barrel has been sitting empty (I keep at little rum in there to keep the wood moist) for a couple months so five gallons will age in...

Killing Four Recipes with One Mash Monday, October 3, 2011 7:44 PM Finding time to brew has been challenging lately. You all know how it is, so many beer ideas, never enough time to brew them all. To counter this I decided I was going to kill four birds with one stone. I put together a recipe for 10 gallons of milk stout, which is essentially a stout with the addition of lactose during the boil. Lactose is a milk sugar and is mostly unfermentable by yeast resulting in a finished beer that is sweeter. After primary fermentation, I will divide up the 10 gallons to create four different beers. My rum oak barrel has been sitting empty (I keep at little rum in there to keep the wood moist) for a couple months so five gallons will age in...

Here are some more pics of the rig's current progress.

Here are some more pics of the rig's current progress.

I recently started build a RIMS system. I will document the process here just in case anyone is interested. I have to give a shout out to my friends Gary and Steve for getting me back interested in brewing again and for helping me decide to build the RIMS system. Also for the use of shop space. LOL Here are some pictures of the basic frame as of one day of cutting and welding. I am NOT an expert welder. But the joints seem to be holding!

I recently started build a RIMS system. I will document the process here just in case anyone is interested. I have to give a shout out to my friends Gary and Steve for getting me back interested in brewing again and for helping me decide to build the RIMS system. Also for the use of shop space. LOL Here are some pictures of the basic frame as of one day of cutting and welding. I am NOT an expert welder. But the joints seem to be holding!

I actually brewed this over a month ago, but I wanted to make sure that I documented it well and began writing down my thoughts for all of my brews. I've had the notes and pictures since the day I brewed and just never got around to formulate the thoughts properly and post to HBT until now. This really wasn't intended for other's eyes, so the notes may seem very random (however it makes sense to me). Anyways, here it goes: Belgian Wit Recipe Specifics ---------------- Batch Size (Gal): 5.5 Total Grain (Lbs): 10.25 Anticipated OG: 1.048 Anticipated FG: 1.010 Grain ----- 2.5 lbs of Flaked Wheat 3 lbs of White Wheat 4.75 Belgian Pilsner Malt Hops ---- 0.50 oz. Cascade (Pellet, 5.0% AA) @ 30 min 0.50 oz. Cascade (Pellet, 5.0% AA) @ 5 min...

I actually brewed this over a month ago, but I wanted to make sure that I documented it well and began writing down my thoughts for all of my brews. I've had the notes and pictures since the day I brewed and just never got around to formulate the thoughts properly and post to HBT until now. This really wasn't intended for other's eyes, so the notes may seem very random (however it makes sense to me). Anyways, here it goes: Belgian Wit Recipe Specifics ---------------- Batch Size (Gal): 5.5 Total Grain (Lbs): 10.25 Anticipated OG: 1.048 Anticipated FG: 1.010 Grain ----- 2.5 lbs of Flaked Wheat 3 lbs of White Wheat 4.75 Belgian Pilsner Malt Hops ---- 0.50 oz. Cascade (Pellet, 5.0% AA) @ 30 min 0.50 oz. Cascade (Pellet, 5.0% AA) @ 5 min...

On May-1-2011 I planted 1 Cascade rhizome, 1 Nugget rhizome, and 1 Centennial starter. I was given a planter box next to our garage/barn in which to plant my hops. 05-01-2011 You can see the little wooden stakes in front of where each was planted. From left to right there is Cascade - Nugget - Centennial. The centennial is the one on the rope and is about 6 inches tall. Unfortunately I planted these at home and had to return to college, so I wasn't able to water them or watch them grow. While I was away one of my dogs dug up the nugget rhizome and took off with it - my neighbor noticed the dog pull up the cascade and take off with it and she saved from my dog and even replanted it for me. Unfortunately all the bines on the cascade broke...

On May-1-2011 I planted 1 Cascade rhizome, 1 Nugget rhizome, and 1 Centennial starter. I was given a planter box next to our garage/barn in which to plant my hops. 05-01-2011 You can see the little wooden stakes in front of where each was planted. From left to right there is Cascade - Nugget - Centennial. The centennial is the one on the rope and is about 6 inches tall. Unfortunately I planted these at home and had to return to college, so I wasn't able to water them or watch them grow. While I was away one of my dogs dug up the nugget rhizome and took off with it - my neighbor noticed the dog pull up the cascade and take off with it and she saved from my dog and even replanted it for me. Unfortunately all the bines on the cascade broke...

Fixing a stuck fermentation 101: Ground rules: Don't rely on your airlock alone as an indicator for fermentation progress, especially if you use a bucket. Your hydrometer is your most reliable tool for this purpose. - Are you sure the fermentation is stuck? Take hydrometer samples every two-three days for a week and correct for temperature. It's only stuck if your readings don't change for several days and are at least 5 points above your targeted final gravity. - Be patient - a stuck fermentation is not a time-critical flaw. Just sitting there for a few extra days is not going to hurt your beer. Think before your act, and give your actions plenty of time to show results before deciding to move on to an alternate fix. Procedure...

Fixing a stuck fermentation 101: Ground rules: Don't rely on your airlock alone as an indicator for fermentation progress, especially if you use a bucket. Your hydrometer is your most reliable tool for this purpose. - Are you sure the fermentation is stuck? Take hydrometer samples every two-three days for a week and correct for temperature. It's only stuck if your readings don't change for several days and are at least 5 points above your targeted final gravity. - Be patient - a stuck fermentation is not a time-critical flaw. Just sitting there for a few extra days is not going to hurt your beer. Think before your act, and give your actions plenty of time to show results before deciding to move on to an alternate fix. Procedure...

For my first blog entry, and to commemorate my 1000th post on Homebrewtalk.com, I'm posting these easy instructions on thermometer calibration and correction. Background: I am using two thermometers at this point: A floating glass thermometer and a cheap digital probe thermometer from IKEA. I noticed that they read identical temperatures at room temperature, but showed a differential of no less than 14 degrees F at boiling! Needless to say, I was immediately worried about my mash temperatures. I am a partial mash brewer, but grain makes up anything from 50% to 80% of my fermentables, so hitting my infusion temperature is definitely important! Calibration: This step is fairly easy. You will need your thermometer(s), some ice and some...

For my first blog entry, and to commemorate my 1000th post on Homebrewtalk.com, I'm posting these easy instructions on thermometer calibration and correction. Background: I am using two thermometers at this point: A floating glass thermometer and a cheap digital probe thermometer from IKEA. I noticed that they read identical temperatures at room temperature, but showed a differential of no less than 14 degrees F at boiling! Needless to say, I was immediately worried about my mash temperatures. I am a partial mash brewer, but grain makes up anything from 50% to 80% of my fermentables, so hitting my infusion temperature is definitely important! Calibration: This step is fairly easy. You will need your thermometer(s), some ice and some...