Adding a weldless bulkheads to kettle

[cbzdel]

When I bought my 8 gallon kettle from my local brew supply store they said for $20 they could of added a ball valve to it, I wish I took them up on that offer, I just did not like dealing with the oversize racking cane, I know its been the way to do it for years but I like the idea of just using a ball valve and hose.

So I found a couple links on here to this place:
http://www.bargainfittings.com

Wondering if anyone could tell me the difference between these two:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91

and

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=178

So then to move on to make it even more difficult, I was thinking of getting a 3/8" output barb only because I have several 3/8" hoses already, or is the 1/2" the way to go?

Then what about the inside? Do I want anything on the inside? a pick up tube at all or one of the filter screens?

And as for the ball valve I could do the 1 piece or the 3 piece, is the 3 piece worth the extra $6? It sure looks nice but is it really needed?

I was even thinking about adding in a cheaper thermometer, I have the one that clips onto the top of the pot, but I think it would be nice to be able to keep the lid of during my steeping process. Are these worth it as well?

My kettle only cost me $60, its not high quality by any means but it seems to do its job, plus I should be able to re-use the fittings if I ever get a new kettle.

 

[bierandbikes]

I got the standard ball valve from bargain fittings. The owner emailed me several times answering questions. Great experience. As for 1/2" vs 3/8", its really personal preference. Obviously you will get a slower drain with a smaller hole. I do not have anything inside the kettle, but have considered adding either a screen or tube in the future. Try it without and see if you need it.

When you drill, follow the directions on the website...especially the part about fitting often. You must use a step bit, lots of lubricant, and some good-even pressure.

And yes, you can always take it apart and use it on your next BK.

 

[brewkinger]

The difference between the two fittings is the latter is for a thicker walled vessel whereas the first is for thinner wall kettle or keg.
I would say the first will be just fine for your application.
In my opinion, the 3 pc ball valve is worth extra $$ an here is why:
You can disassemble and clean if need be

When you install and thread the valve on the outside, it sometimes tightens up and ends up that your handle is not in adequate position. Just take it apart an rotate the assembly 90 degrees and make it work. I hope that makes sense.
If not check out brewhardware.com and check out Bobby's videos on youtube

 

[high5apparatus]

Wait till you see what a step drill bit costs. Don't scare yourself, go to Harbor Freight first and last. Even there it will be enough you'll wish you had let the brew shop do it.

 

[cbzdel]

I already have several step bits so that is not an issue

The kits I posted above do look much nicer than the ones at the local brew shop, I am sure they all work the same but the ones they had were just simple brass fittings, looked like Home Depot parts.. I am sure it would work just find, but sticking bass on stainless its just not visually appealing to me, plus I have read stories about lead in brass..

 

[high5apparatus]

This is the one I put on a 8 gallon aluminium pot:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/30-hop-strainer-with-weldless-bulkhead-and-compact-valve.html

 

[cbzdel]

This is the one I put on a 8 gallon aluminium pot:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/30-hop-strainer-with-weldless-bulkhead-and-compact-valve.html

what is the reason for that 90° fitting? do you run it downward and sideways to essentially loop the "filter" around the bottom of the kettle?

Do those filters take out just about everything? I brew using Irish moss so would it remove all that as well? Wouldn't I want to keep that inside my primary?

 

[CastleHollow]

I did a keggle conversion last year, added a pump & plate chiller to my system. Got all of my bulkhead fittings & connections from Brewhardware.com, Bobby is a member here. Very helpful vendor, check out their website for tips, videos & instructions that might suit your purpose. Uses very high quality materials.

 

[high5apparatus]

The strainer does not stop the irish moss. It helps remove a lot of other stuff. If you use whole hops, there is no need to bag them, but pellet hops will gunk it up. The 90 degree arm gets the draw from the bottom of the pot and allows the mesh to loop around the outside. If you whirlpool after your boil, the screen draws away from the stuff that settles at the middle of the pot.

 

[brewkinger]

what is the reason for that 90° fitting? do you run it downward and sideways to essentially loop the "filter" around the bottom of the kettle?

I have the same basic setup on my 11 gal kettle (minus the SS screen)

My elbow is turned down so that it sits about 1/8" off from the bottom of the kettle.

After I whirlpool and let it sit, I have found that it prevents most of the trub from going into the fermenter.
Something that I did discover though was that when transferring to fermenter after the whirlpool, it is best to open the valve very little at first.
With 7 gallons of heavy wort in the kettle, the suction created when you open the valve too much will actually suck the pile of trub from the center of the kettle.