Wiring diagram thoughts

[tulsabrewdaddy]

This is my first attempt at drawing a wiring diagram. Please give me some comfort or some ideas on whether or not it will work....White wires are represented by the yellow lines (for obvious reasons). If I connect the ground wires from the pumps directly to the extention cord ground would that work? Also is one power cord enough to run all this or should I split that between two?

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Using these switches.

These temperature indicators, overkill I know but I wanted a digital output.

and the March 809 HS pump. Here

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

The neutrals should not be switched, other than that, it looks good.

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

The neutrals should not be switched, other than that, it looks good.

Being new to the wiring game, I have no clue what you are talking about. Do you mind explaining?

 

[raouliii]

*********** Edited because I originally posted questionable information:

The wiring diagrams for the switches indicate interuption of both paths to the load.

I'm no expert on the NEC, but it is my understanding that 110v hot & neutral can be switched if they are both switched at the same time. Is it necessary in this application, probably not. NEC says that you can't switch just the neutral.

If you don't want to switch neutral, you can run the neutral straight to your pumps, bypassing the switch. The switch will need a neutral on X1 for illumination. The switched hot on 14, jumpered to X2, will apply the hot for illumination. No connections are necessary on 23 & 24.

Safety related suggestions: Make connections in a moisture proof box, no exposed wire nuts. The pump manufacturer suggests using a GFCI protected circuit.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

In AC wiring, the Black wire is referred to as the 'hot' wire and the white wire is referred to as the neutral. In AC wiring, the neutral should NEVER be switched (go through a connection that can be opened). If this is done, the neutral wire can become hot (electrically). Known as a 'floating neutral". This would result in a situation where someone could assume the neutral wire (which can normally be touched with power to the circuit live) can electrocute you.

The switch is designed to interrupt only the HOT side. Take a switch plate cover off a light switch in your house and note that ONLY the HOT is switched.

PLEASE DO NOT give out electrical advice if you don't know electrical codes!! The codes are written to prevent fires and save lives.
Any wet location NEEDS to use a GFCI. Also, the frame itself needs to be grounded.
As a stand building company we have to know and comply with all the electrical and gas codes (no gas in the frame) for safety and liability reasons. Dead home brewers aren't much fun.

Remind me to not brew on unfamiliar home brew systems...

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Great thanks for the advise. All my circuits in the garage, where the magic will happen, are GFCI. Can't wait to put this together!

 

[TaylorInOK]

Greetings from the area! Hope everything works out

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Here is the typical wiring from Auber. I used the one one the left to create my wiring. Looks like you have to split the neautral if you want to make the light on only when running, or am I reading this wrong?

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

The neutrals should not be switched, other than that, it looks good.

After a bit more research I think I know what you might be saying. Are you saying it should look more like this:
X1 and X2 are for the light

 

[raouliii]

I edited my earlier post to further discuss the issue. I probably should have just made a new post.

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Thanks again for the help, I think the last diagram sounds like a winner.

 

[raouliii]

The last diagram will work just fine. FWIW, the first one would be NEC legal and would work just as well.

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Thanks again for the help just wired it up and tested it out. (my daughter painted it for me)