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Is that enough for one batch of hipster IPA?hmm, i have two 22lb bags of 2016 crystal hop pellets,
Is that enough for one batch of hipster IPA?hmm, i have two 22lb bags of 2016 crystal hop pellets,
Is that enough for one batch of hipster IPA?
Extracting hipster IPA from wort-moistened hops:
I'm thinking maybe putting on a tight O ring around the bottom of the lids release valve and tie the floss to it.If there's something you can tie it to, sure. But none of my lids come standard with a hook, or anything protruding, to tie a string to.
I did buy 5 kegs from a brewery, they had welded a tab or nut onto the bottom of their lids. So those kegs/lids are being used when I know I'm going to be dry hopping in the keg.
I use a piece of very thin (picture hanging) stainless wire to keep the bag suspended. The wire is easier and faster to attach to that tab than fumbling with dental floss. Or I prepare the bag hanging from a spare lid that has a tab, and switch them out even faster while streaming CO2 into the headspace through the gas post at a decent rate.
BTW, I use a small handful of glass marbles, I doubt a single one has enough weight to prevent it from floating.
That surprises me. Many have been successful over the years using floss like that to suspend dry hop bags. Are you using keg lube on the o-ring? Is it a silicone o-ring perhaps?After a few hours I checked again and a leak appeared at the string coming out of the corney keg thru the gasket.
I seriously doubt that o-ring would stay put. It's a damp, slick environment up there.I'm thinking maybe putting on a tight O ring around the bottom of the lids release valve and tie the floss to it.
Too true too often. At least you got 2 down.Things go in 3's they say.
I think you're right. I've done the floss in the past with decent results. I haven't lubed the lid 0 ring in a while. Probably the cause.That surprises me. Many have been successful over the years using floss like that to suspend dry hop bags. Are you using keg lube on the o-ring? Is it a silicone o-ring perhaps?
I seriously doubt that o-ring would stay put. It's a damp, slick environment up there.
Weighing the tank regularly or better, perpetually, is the best way to keep track of CO2 usage and warn for possible leaks.
Too true too often. At least you got 2 down.
Hope for you that jury duty <ugh> blows over.
How about a hose-clamp on the inner neck of the PRV?I think you're right. I've done the floss in the past with decent results. I haven't lubed the lid 0 ring in a while. Probably the cause.
Hopefully no.3 isn't the white flecks I see floating on top of my Juice yeast I harvested in bucket. I've used it a number of times and it smells ok and tastes ok.
Don't need an infection.
You can... I did it when I was a kid, BUT: The energy cost is massively higher than just buying premium branded bottle water.The other crazy thought is I started thinking about distilled water and wondering, how do they make distilled water. Is it literally just re-condensed boiled water? Can you just make your own?
Been thinking a lot about water, since using distilled was such a high cost my last brew, and I had two possibly crazy thoughts. I have an old (2-3 years) Zerowater water filter system that I bought and didn't really use. It came with a large countertop system and 3-4 filters. I think it was a Costco deal. It works just fine. As advertised, it brings the total dissolved solids in water down to zero, or close to it. But the water tastes terrible for the same reason distilled water tastes terrible after all the minerals have been stripped from it. So you see where I'm going with this, has anyone tried to use a Zerowater filter as a source for brew water?
It's also attractive because if I switch to RO water, I've read that it's not great for the environment and I live in an area severely affected by drought. So it's top of mind for me.
The other crazy thought is I started thinking about distilled water and wondering, how do they make distilled water. Is it literally just re-condensed boiled water? Can you just make your own?
I just finished setting up my RO system from @Buckeye_Hydro, and it's amazing. I live just north of you, so very drought-conscious as well. I run all of my beer-cooling water and any waste from the RO system into my rain barrels in the backyard; then I water the yard with it.Been thinking a lot about water, since using distilled was such a high cost my last brew, and I had two possibly crazy thoughts. I have an old (2-3 years) Zerowater water filter system that I bought and didn't really use. It came with a large countertop system and 3-4 filters. I think it was a Costco deal. It works just fine. As advertised, it brings the total dissolved solids in water down to zero, or close to it. But the water tastes terrible for the same reason distilled water tastes terrible after all the minerals have been stripped from it. So you see where I'm going with this, has anyone tried to use a Zerowater filter as a source for brew water?
It's also attractive because if I switch to RO water, I've read that it's not great for the environment and I live in an area severely affected by drought. So it's top of mind for me.
The other crazy thought is I started thinking about distilled water and wondering, how do they make distilled water. Is it literally just re-condensed boiled water? Can you just make your own?
Not around here. It costs about $0.30-0.33/gal to make distilled water with my brother's water distiller, it's about $1/gal for any type of bottled water.You can... I did it when I was a kid, BUT: The energy cost is massively higher than just buying premium branded bottle water.
Thanks! And sorry for posting without thinking. ..when I was a kid I made my own still...not very safe or efficient! Those modern water distillers weren't even on my radar, but now you've got me thinking I should look into it.Not around here. It costs about $0.30-0.33/gal to make distilled water with my brother's water distiller, it's about $1/gal for any type of bottled water.
Look around for a used stainless distiller if you can, I'm using one by H2O systems but it's rebranded by a number of companies. 5.5 or so hours to distill 1 gal, i think 700w. It's good for CPAP users too Check Craigslist, eBay, etc. The more you spend, the longer it takes to break even.
Save fuel. Drink a homebrew.Drink more, drive less.
That's exactly why I built a still when I was a kid! I was experimenting with a mixture of ethanol and napthalene for my mini-bike.Change over your engine's internals to run off ethanol, start distilling, and then you have a use for the bad batches.
So I'm curious what do you do to keep costs down?
Where I used to live there was a tiny brewpub, I made friends with the brewer and he sold me malt at his cost plus 10% to keep the owner happy. I was getting malt for $22 per sack. I was able to do that with 3 brewers, but the 4th considered it a hassle and refused to sell to me.I get my malt at a brewery in the city where I used to live, buy hops in bulk, reuse yeast.
I'll pick it up on a day that I have to drive into work for meetings, as I am able to telework most days.
The malt is usually about 75-85 cents a pound, however, I bought three sacks of Franco-Belages malt so it's about $1 a pound.
rMy immersion chiller sucks. It will drop the temperature below 100 pretty quickly but stalls around 90 even if the water running thru it is in the low 60's. If I'm pitching kveik yeast, that's fine. For everything else, I have 1 liter pop bottles of ice in the freezer. I sanitize one or two with Starsan and add them directly to the fermentation bucket.
I may try doing a lager in the summer by just swapping out ice bottles as they thaw. Or not; I tend to brew with the seasons rather than fighting them. But it could be done
I tried the dental floss trick and had the same results. I just toss the hops bag in now. I've never had any issues with dispensing.Well since this has happened to me once too many times, I am done with it.
When dryhopping in a corney, I put one small marble in the bag with hops. I use thin dental floss to tie it and have the floss come thru the corney opening. Normally after pressurizing, there is no leak. I give ample sting length so when the keg goes down you can get more chance of a leak with the weight of bag if strings hanging. But what happened is I ran out of CO2 which was at the end of use and went out and got a refill. Hooked it up, checked everywhere for leaks, and no problem showed. After a few hours I checked again and a leak appeared at the string coming out of the corney keg thru the gasket. This keg was still pretty full so I was really surprised. So no more of that in future. I opened the lid and just dropped the bag in. Hopefully I don't have a problem dispensing. Next time maybe tie it to the release valve under lid? Anyone else dealt with this? Really pissed me off at losing some CO2 money down the drain. Or maybe just nix the marble?
Cheapest good beer ever:
40% Pilsener malt, 60% wheat flour. 45 minute mash, 65c.
Og 1.04 - 1.042
Generic hops, bittering only, 25 ibus.
Saison yeast of your choice (I love Imperial yeast rustic for this).
Only caveat, you have to biab because sparging would be a problem with that much wheat flour.
My chiller sucks too.
I should have clarified that what I use the ice for is to pump through my immersion chiller. I keep the ice in an ice chest and then use a pond pump to pump the ice water through the chiller. It will crash a boiling kettle from 200F+ to 110F in about 15 min or less. But then to get from 110 to 70 takes about another hour, even though there's still plenty of ice in the water.
I have 2 IC’s, the SS coil from my foundry and a copper coil.A friend gave me his original immersion chiller when he upgraded. I cleaned it on the inside with a strong vinegar bath and a few gallons of Starsan solution. I now use it by circulating my wort through it while it sits in an old ice chest full of ice water. I use yogurt and sour cream tubs to make big ice cubes so I don't have to buy ice
I'm looking to do this with a Double IPA and then "re-mash" for a low ABV pale. Can you provide some details? How much grain did you use, what was your OG of your main batch, and what was the OG of the second batch?Ok I read somewhere that in the UK that some brewers would brew another beer with the spent grain, so I tried it. After mashing for an ipa, I took the mash pipe out and put the spent grains in a kettle on the stove with a bag, BIAB.Now I’m brewing 5 electric and 5 Biab, I also added 1 lb grains and 1 lb of DME, some hops then some saved yeast, Now you’re not going to win any competition with it but it’s pretty good.Actually I paid for beer at some breweries that wasn’t as good.
https://www.morebeer.com/articles/Parti-Gyle_BrewingI'm looking to do this with a Double IPA and then "re-mash" for a low ABV pale. Can you provide some details? How much grain did you use, what was your OG of your main batch, and what was the OG of the second batch?
I'm looking to do this with a Double IPA and then "re-mash" for a low ABV pale. Can you provide some details? How much grain did you use, what was your OG of your main batch, and what was the OG of the second batch?
Ayup. Been doing this since the beginning. However, I also use the pool water for cooling in the summer. Sure, it only gets down to 90F, but then I just put the fermentors into the fermentation fridge and they get the rest of the way down in a few hours. Then I pitch the yeast (often I just pitch the yeast the next morning).In the winter when the pool water is 45 degrees, we simply use that for cooling. It gets pumped through the immersion chiller (Hydra) and goes right back into the pool.
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