Weldless Fittings Leak Tips?

[Cpt_Kirks]

How do I keep weldless fittings from leaking?

I seem to get drips no matter how hard I tighten the fittings. The only way to completely stop them is to apply silicone adhesive to the outside, and I'm not sure if that is good practice.

 

[BargainFittings]

What are you installing it on? What order of install did you do?

Generally leaks happen because of the following:

No teflon or too little teflon tape on the threads of the nipple.
Too large a hole
Oring is cut or is popping out of the groove on the locknut if the weldless set you have uses one.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

What are you installing it on? What order of install did you do?

Generally leaks happen because of the following:

No teflon or too little teflon tape on the threads of the nipple.
Too large a hole
Oring is cut or is popping out of the groove on the locknut if the weldless set you have uses one.

Keggle. If anything, the hole is a little tight (I have to thread the nipple through the hole). From inside: lock nut, o-ring, keggle wall, washer, faucet.

Using about five wraps of teflon tape.

(While I have your attention, which nut of yours works with water heater elements, is it the grooved 1"?)

 

[BargainFittings]

Did you insert the nipple from the inside?

Check the lip of the hole for any burs.

Look at the o-ring closely and flex it under a strong light to look for cuts.

 

[IrregularPulse]

My concern is where you said "no matter how tight." You don't want to muscle these down or you'll deform the oring and cause a leak.

Adn try this.
From inside
Nut-->washer-->oring-->Keg wall. The washer against he oring help push it evenly.

 

[klyph]

My concern is where you said "no matter how tight." You don't want to muscle these down or you'll deform the oring and cause a leak.

Adn try this.
From inside
Nut-->washer-->oring-->Keg wall. The washer against he oring help push it evenly.

If you have a nut with a recess for the o-ring, you don't want a washer between the nut and o-ring.

 

[IrregularPulse]

That nut is supposed to follow the curve of the keg wall?

 

[klyph]

One other thing to consider is that the locknut is straight thread. So first, tighten it down on a well taped male coupler (nipple) until it bottoms out. This will help the straight threads seal to the pipe threads. Then assemble the rest of the unit using washers only if the pipe threads bottom out before they compress the o-ring.

 

[klyph]

That nut is supposed to follow the curve of the keg wall?

You're talking about a 1" wide nut, the curvature is insignificant at that size, the o-ring more than makes up the difference

 

[klyph]

Here's my 10 gallon kettle. One more thing: Assemble the nipple and nut like I said, then put the o-ring on, install it through the opening with the ball valve, and use the nut and ball valve when tightening. This is where the washer on the outside comes in. You want the pipe threads of the ball valve and nipple to bottom out at the same level you are getting the right pressure on the o-ring. Because of slight variances in pipe threads, some go further than others. Some of mine have one washer, some have two or three. Once you shim the ball valve with the right amount of washers so that it's threads are bottomed out, and the o-ring is compressed, then add the coupler to the inside. If you tighten the assembly with the coupler up against the nut, you risk not sealing around the nut's threads.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[BendBrewer]

I fixed mine with a square piece of neoprene.

Cut a hole in it about half the diameter of the valve shaft and used it between the outside of the kettle and the valve. Works like a charm.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

I fixed mine with a square piece of neoprene.

Cut a hole in it about half the diameter of the valve shaft and used it between the outside of the kettle and the valve. Works like a charm.

Is neoprene "food grade"? The aquarium silicone I used is supposed to be, and it's supposed to be good to about 500*F.

I'm not too worried about my HLT (which is where I've been using the weldless connectors), but I'm about to drill my boil keggle.

 

[shushikiary]

Mine leaked too, but it was where the valve would thread onto the nipple. I simply got some large rubber washers from lowes and put it between the washer and the valve and it solved the problem.

See the leak for me wasnt from leaking past the O-ring, it was from leaking back through the threads of the valve where the valve and nipple screwed together. It seemed like no amount of teflon tape would make it go away but that rubber washer in there did the trick.

And in this case and the above neoprene case it doesnt matter if its food safe or not as its only in contact with a very very small amount of liquid that has leaked past the threads outside the keg.

 

[BendBrewer]

Do you have a step drill bit? I didn't hence why I had a leak to fix. Wouldn't drill another one without a step bit.

Food Grade? I don't know. Used it for 20 batches or so. Never had a problem.

 

[klyph]

I use neoprene washers on the hot liquor tank and mash tun, but silicone in the boil kettle.

Mine is set up this way mainly because that's what I could buy at the local hardware store. I'm in the process of soldering in couplers.

 

[xd_haze]

This will echo some of what has already been said, but I'll add a bit.

First, as other have said, overtightening is as bad or worse that undertightening. Also, the fact that you have to thread it in could be causing you trouble, as you might not be getting the nut and washer up against the wall of the tank as good as you need.

The problem we all have is that the nipples are not straight threaded, if they were, our lives would be much easier Here is what I've found most useful: Tighten the nipple into the coupler. Put a washer and then an O-ring on the nipple. Slide that through from the inside. Put an o-ring on the exposed nipple, and then a washer. (Sometimes you need two!) Then tighten the nut down. Now load up the remaining threaded portion of the nipple with teflon tape and tighten on the valve. You need to use a lot of tape, because you don't really have enough thread to make a good connection here.

Finally, don't fear the silicone sealant. If it is food grade, there is no problem using it. And you don't need to use very much, so you won't really see it anyway, and you're using on the outside so there is negligible contact with the wort anyway.

haze

 

[klyph]

This will echo some of what has already been said, but I'll add a bit.

First, as other have said, overtightening is as bad or worse that undertightening. Also, the fact that you have to thread it in could be causing you trouble, as you might not be getting the nut and washer up against the wall of the tank as good as you need.

The problem we all have is that the nipples are not straight threaded, if they were, our lives would be much easier Here is what I've found most useful: Tighten the nipple into the coupler. Put a washer and then an O-ring on the nipple. Slide that through from the inside. Put an o-ring on the exposed nipple, and then a washer. (Sometimes you need two!) Then tighten the nut down. Now load up the remaining threaded portion of the nipple with teflon tape and tighten on the valve. You need to use a lot of tape, because you don't really have enough thread to make a good connection here.

Finally, don't fear the silicone sealant. If it is food grade, there is no problem using it. And you don't need to use very much, so you won't really see it anyway, and you're using on the outside so there is negligible contact with the wort anyway.

haze

See that's what I don't understand, you're suggesting to tighten the threads between the nipple and coupler (inside of the vessel) properly, and then on the outside of the vessel between the nipple and the ball valve (where a leak actually matters), you suggest over taping the joint, and siliconing it if that doesn't work.

If you simply ensure that both sides of the nipples threads are bottomed out, using the appropriate amount of washers so that the o-ring is compressed, there will be no need to over tape or silicone the fitting.

 

[xd_haze]

See that's what I don't understand, you're suggesting to tighten the threads between the nipple and coupler (inside of the vessel) properly, and then on the outside of the vessel between the nipple and the ball valve (where a leak actually matters), you suggest over taping the joint, and siliconing it if that doesn't work.

If you simply ensure that both sides of the nipples threads are bottomed out, using the appropriate amount of washers so that the o-ring is compressed, there will be no need to over tape or silicone the fitting.

I don't disagree, but are you using a lock nut or are you essentially using the valve as the lock nut?

haze

 

[klyph]

I don't disagree, but are you using a lock nut or are you essentially using the valve as the lock nut?

haze

This is how I do mine. The locknut should thread on until it bottoms out on the nipple from the inside, and the valve should thread on until it bottoms out from the outside.

 

[Jewrican]

i was BSing around with weldless fittings for HOURS trying to get my three keggles set up. finally i said screw it! I went and paid even more money to have them welded in place.

IMO, weldless is a waste.. find someone to weld it in there and be done with it. What is going to happen when you bump the bulkhead on something? Is it going to leak? Do you want to take that risk?

 

[klyph]

IMO, weldless is a waste.. find someone to weld it in there and be done with it. What is going to happen when you bump the bulkhead on something? Is it going to leak? Do you want to take that risk?

I've never had any leaking issues with mine, even smacking my head into them when reaching down to pick something up. They are pretty solid if you do them right.

 

[DeafSmith]

I had a leak in the weldless fitting on one of my coolers that I couldn't seem to fix. After taking it apart for about the third time, I noticed that there were some stamped numbers on the center smooth part of the nipple, up close to the threads. I thought maybe that was providing a leak path underneath the silicone O-ring which rests right on top of those numbers, so I wrapped several layers of teflon tape over the center of the nipple, in addition to that on the threaded part, reassembled, and have had no more problems. Whether or not that was really the problem, I may never know, but so far, so good.

 

[DrJerryrigger]

If anything, the hole is a little tight ...

Using about five wraps of teflon tape.

How tight? so tight you should be using less tape?
If it is anything like what people have been posting you want it to bottom out so the o-ring makes contact. Too much tape can prevent this, but I'm not sure if this is your situation.
I really like silicone, I use it on everything; but this seems like it could/should be fixed in a more "proper" way (because it's something simple).

My first step would be to take it out and assemble it with out the pot and see how things are fitting.

 

[xd_haze]

This is how I do mine. The locknut should thread on until it bottoms out on the nipple from the inside, and the valve should thread on until it bottoms out from the outside.

That's helpful. That isn't how mine are done -- mine has the locknut on the outside, because it is brass. For the record both my kettle and my hlt went together without any trouble, no leaks and no silicone required. My cooler MT on the other hand, required silicone, but I think that is because the cooler itself was deforming and not giving a good seal.

haze

 

[cjever19]

I've ordered a combo thermometer/sight glass from Bobby and plan to install it this week.

Do I have to get/use a step bit? What's the disadvantage to using my drill bits and going progressively larger with each pass?

 

[klyph]

Unless they are cobalt bits or some other kind of super hard bit, you'll break/dull them quickly. My advice, invest in a 7/8" greenlee chassis punch and a cobalt bit large enough for the bolt. I just started using a chassis punch on keg shells, and it is about 100 times easier and ten times faster than a step bit.

 

[cjever19]

Thanks klyph. Nice tip but I am trying to save money to avoid buying a step bit. My kettle is aluminum so I'm thinking that I will be able to get through it fairly easily, just wondering if I will be not doing something with it that a step bit would. Not really familiar with step bits, always thought they were like a poorman's "all in one" drill-bit.

So, do I really want to use a step-bit or chassis punch, or will a plain ol' drill bit be fine?

 

[Chipster27]

Thanks klyph. Nice tip but I am trying to save money to avoid buying a step bit. My kettle is aluminum so I'm thinking that I will be able to get through it fairly easily, just wondering if I will be not doing something with it that a step bit would. Not really familiar with step bits, always thought they were like a poorman's "all in one" drill-bit.

So, do I really want to use a step-bit or chassis punch, or will a plain ol' drill bit be fine?

Unless you have a very large drill bit I'm guessing you'll want to use a step bit, or chassis punch.

Mine was leaking, but after reading this thread I re-installed the fitting and used some teflon tape and it seems to be holding a seal. As you may know the nipple is tapered. I un-threaded the nipple from the valve and installed the washer on the valve side of the taper. I think that combined with the addition of teflon tape solved my problem. It also gave me more threads on the inside of the kettle so I could install a coupling for accessories inside the kettle.

 

[Chad_C]

A step bit or a punch will create a much cleaner and smoother hole than a regular drill bit IME.

 

[passedpawn]

These make it all better.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_42&product_id=105

 

[klyph]

Thanks klyph. Nice tip but I am trying to save money to avoid buying a step bit. My kettle is aluminum so I'm thinking that I will be able to get through it fairly easily, just wondering if I will be not doing something with it that a step bit would. Not really familiar with step bits, always thought they were like a poorman's "all in one" drill-bit.

So, do I really want to use a step-bit or chassis punch, or will a plain ol' drill bit be fine?

If you've got a 7/8" bit, it will cut through aluminum no problem. I should have mentioned I was talking about drilling stainless. Your method of using progressively larger bits on aluminum should work, but you might have to clean up the hole with a file.

 

[cjever19]

I wish I'd ordered the step bit with Bobbys kit but figured I'd get one at Home Crapo for cheaper. Wrong! Theirs start at $45!

Anyway, I'm using Bobbbys kit which calls for a 9/16" hole, which I do have a standard bit for. So I'm thinking I will go progressively larger to 9/16" then clean up around the holes with my Dremmel.

 

[Bobby_M]

If you have a 9/16" bit, you'll have no problem at all.

For bulkhead sealing issues up in the 1/2" NPT range, I really like the silver soldering approach whether it's just to connect a washer to the nipple or to straight up solder a fitting to the vessel.

 

[ReefmanV]

This is probably a little to late. But, Harbor Freight has these for about half of the Home Cheapo price.

Cheers
Jim

 

[Jewrican]

that is what i did as well. nice and cheap

 

[passedpawn]

i was BSing around with weldless fittings for HOURS trying to get my three keggles set up. finally i said screw it! I went and paid even more money to have them welded in place.

IMO, weldless is a waste.. find someone to weld it in there and be done with it. What is going to happen when you bump the bulkhead on something? Is it going to leak? Do you want to take that risk?

I'm all weldless on 3 keggles. Never any leaks. I bump that stuff all the time. Not a waste in my experience. However, I wish they were welded.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

What I finally found to work was making sure the hole is large enough for the nipple (that ridge in the middle has to fit through cleanly) and use of a large silicone rubber washer on the outside.

My leaks, even the little drip an hour leaks, are gone.