Welding is not so hard

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Quote "I've experimented for hours with the TIG feature but can't get the AMPs setting right. Besides the knob on the machine, I don't see a way to control the amount/force of the arc while tigging. There is no foot pedal attachment. It seems like I either have it turned up too much and blow a hole thru the SS or I have it turned down and barely get it glowing and the filler rod just clumps on top of the SS."


I hat to ask, but are you sharpening the tungsten to a point? Also, what size tungsten are you using? If you are not sharpening your tungsten, you will never be able to control the arc. You should be able to pin point the arc. Usually when the tungsten gets contaminated, or the tip gets burnt, you can no longer control the arc.

Try reading on this site for a little bit. Miller - Resources - TIG Handbook
 
I bought a Lincoln A/C MIG wilder for working on my Mustang, and love it. I've had to replace the heat range switches though, so be careful about abusing the duty cycle on those. They are meant for home and hobby, not for continuous welding.

That must be a Lincoln DC Mig machine. Sorry boss but heat range switches suck plain and simple in welders. Too hot, too cold a control knobs is a lot better machine to dial in especially on light gauge materials. Never switch under load you'll arc weld the contacts internally in the welders switch. Duty cycle also comes into play on these little home units rated at 20% not the industrial standard of 60%. I will not run flux core in my Mig machine or use it on the job site, now early retired no worries. One time my electrictrical contractor mentioned it would bring flux core on the job site for me., I got into it and brought in my own 280 bottle. The shop paid for the refills with their machine plus the solid wire I ordered. I can truly say i've owned Miller's Hobart's and Lincoln welding machines in Mig and Tig. I now only own Tig and Mig machines "powered by blue", Millers. There is a reason, some call it a chebbie / Ford thing. Certain Lincolns work better than a Miller, certian Millers better than a Hobart in a given amperage. I can weld, never said i'm a welder and it wasn't easy and fast to learn as memtioned on this forum, they must be "gifted welders", hats off to you. You beat my 43 years of welding all to hell, I turn 56 in two days. Remember always buy more than you think you'll ever need in a welder if your young as you will grow into it vs out of a lesser unit, this will cost more purchasing twice second vs once with the right machine. Practice then practice more and do not be afraid to add more heat no bird crap stuck together joints. Done ranting, not bad for being called a "visitor" on this forum with 628 replies/posts.
 
Quote "I've experimented for hours with the TIG feature but can't get the AMPs setting right. Besides the knob on the machine, I don't see a way to control the amount/force of the arc while tigging. There is no foot pedal attachment. It seems like I either have it turned up too much and blow a hole thru the SS or I have it turned down and barely get it glowing and the filler rod just clumps on top of the SS."


I hat to ask, but are you sharpening the tungsten to a point? Also, what size tungsten are you using? If you are not sharpening your tungsten, you will never be able to control the arc. You should be able to pin point the arc. Usually when the tungsten gets contaminated, or the tip gets burnt, you can no longer control the arc.

Try reading on this site for a little bit. Miller - Resources - TIG Handbook
Tig without a slider, rotating switch on the torch or a foot control is about useless far as a Tig machine goes. On my 350 Tig I can control the arc start amps then it comes down as the arc puddle begins besides the foot control, pulser and background amps. Yup I can still dip the tungsten into the puddle, snap it off and regrind a new tip. I run the long cap with both ends, .020", 1/16", 3/32", 1/8" tapered pointed ground length wise. Depends on the amperage your tungsten size. Not all welding requires a point, balled end for welding aluminum.
 
Over a year ago I bought one of these cheap-o all in one devices:

Link to eBay: Click Here

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The plasma cutting feature worked very well for cutting off the tops of my kegs. The stick was too complicated for me to use to build by stand, so I got a $99 mig welder that did the trick.

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I've experimented for hours with the TIG feature but can't get the AMPs setting right. Besides the knob on the machine, I don't see a way to control the amount/force of the arc while tigging. There is no foot pedal attachment. It seems like I either have it turned up too much and blow a hole thru the SS or I have it turned down and barely get it glowing and the filler rod just clumps on top of the SS.

I should have put up some real money to get a name brand device, but it wasn't in the budget (and still isn't).

Does anyone have a similar device that has used the TIG feature to attach SS couplings to a keg?

Thanks...

see if your local community college has classes for welding. those small cheap welders work fine. you dont need to spend a grand on a machine to do light stuff. tig welding is like gas welding with filler rod. mig welding is like arc welding with a continual rod. to build a brew stand that mig will work fine. and id hesitate to weld ss specially on a keggle as you have special techniques that need to be followed. you can read yuri's threads on welding stainless. you will need to back gas the inside and all.

and yes i have used high dollar welders and cheap welders and my old CH worked fine for most of what i would weld. and the northern industrial i just bought will work even better as it has better heat control and gas.
 
BrewBeemer, I was trying to help BrewVegas with some issues on his machine. I understand you have the cadillac of machines, and probably do not need any help with tigging. I mentioned sharpening tungsten to him, as I believe that this is a bihg part of the issue he is having. I did not mention balling of the tungsten for welding aluminum, as the picture he posted is a DC machine.

BrewVegas, I would recommend starting on a piece of scrap, and set the machine on 40-45 amps. Hold the torch at a 15 degree angle, and start with a small circle, until you can see a puddle start to form. At this point, start movin in a straight line ( no swirl), away from the puddle, with the torch angled to the front. try this with no filler, and try different speeds until you get the desired results. make sure you keep the tungsten out of the puddle, and keep it the same distance from the workpiece. If the scrap metal is stainless, you should be striving for a gold or rainbow color on your weld. HTH
 
BTW, I was fortunate enough to get a welder as my company was going out of business. I have a Miller 180SD TIG welder and I just welded up my own stand. I found learning to weld to be very easy. More in line with BrewBeemer's comments though; I found welding consistently and welding well to be extremely difficult. Now that I finished that stand, I'm ready to sell it, buy more SS and weld one 1/2 ass instead of 7/8 ass like this one. Thank God for 60 grit blending discs!

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I've got pics of mine up and running in my gallery. The pumps are missing some couplers still, but I should be at full speed in a week or two.

Once I'm sure I like the height, I'll take off the wooden base and put on tube-stock legs with plates on bottom to bolt the casters to.
 
BTW, I was fortunate enough to get a welder as my company was going out of business. I have a Miller 180SD TIG welder and I just welded up my own stand. I found learning to weld to be very easy. More in line with BrewBeemer's comments though; I found welding consistently and welding well to be extremely difficult. Now that I finished that stand, I'm ready to sell it, buy more SS and weld one 1/2 ass instead of 7/8 ass like this one. Thank God for 60 grit blending discs!

Welding consistently is all about practice, practice, practice, and a wee tiny bit of talent, but mostly practice. Some are blessed with great fine motor control and can turn out perfect looking, and functional welds that are consistent in a short period of time. If you are not one of the lucky few, than you have to practice more. Notice that I did not say guys with talent need not practice. LOL. Anyway, enjoy the art and weld, soon you will be turning out pretty and functional welds that are a showcase unto them selves. S.


One more note: Women make excellent welders once they get over the awkwardness of it, and often times they end up being much better at it than men. GOD BLESSED most women with better fine motor control than men, I think the exchange on our part was strength, in a silver back sort of way. LOL.
 
Tig without a slider, rotating switch on the torch or a foot control is about useless far as a Tig machine goes. On my 350 Tig I can control the arc start amps then it comes down as the arc puddle begins besides the foot control, pulser and background amps. Yup I can still dip the tungsten into the puddle, snap it off and regrind a new tip. I run the long cap with both ends, .020", 1/16", 3/32", 1/8" tapered pointed ground length wise. Depends on the amperage your tungsten size. Not all welding requires a point, balled end for welding aluminum.

I will beg to differ. Im a pipe welder by trade, and we learned how to weld pipelines in school without a foot pedal, slider, or seperate amp control. Turn your heat to where your comfortable, and run with it. Yes its harder to do without a pedal, but once you mastered the hard way, you appreciate the foot pedal a little more:mug:.
 
I finally found a forum that is hell bent on welding, I love it. Here is my welding gear Im running at the house.

One of my first tig welds I ever did, in school.
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My baby, Miller Trailblazer 302
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My tig setup. Since this picture, I bought the new modular tig torch from arczone with removable heads, and got another 300cf tank. The 80cf tank in this pic is good for getting in tight places, without rolling around a big 300cf.
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Stick welding gear with ground
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I dont have any pictures of it yet, but I also have a spoolmate 185 w/ a sga 100C. Its a small mig setup, but does what I need it to, when I work on alluminum.

I only have this stock photo in my photobucket right now, but I have this as well. Its a Tungsten Grinder called a sharpie, made by arczone.com. This little grinder has paid for itself ten fold, and will grind your tungsten to a polished precision point, or a flat tip for alluminum tig welding.
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Just got this new addition to my miller family. I traded a $2500.00 M4 rifle for this Spectrum 875 plasma cutter, and a sh$tload of extras.
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Built a brutus for a local club member
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Got Coupler! Just some coupler I tig welded for a buddy, on a sanke keg.
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I made a keg to sabco specs. A buddy of mine wanted a Sabco keg, but couldnt afford one, so I built him a mirror image Sabco kettle to specs, for 1/4of the price.
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Graduated Tulsa Welding School
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Hope I didnt overload this thread with pics, but I got excited when I stumbled upon this thread!;)
 
DAMNNNNN That is some boucoup moolah in that rig! Nice welds. The TIGging I've found takes practice and having that nice miller can't be all bad.
 
DAMNNNNN That is some boucoup moolah in that rig! Nice welds. The TIGging I've found takes practice and having that nice miller can't be all bad.



Thanks buddy, and yeah the miller helps out a little during the weld:p. The pictures I posted are of the equipment that I did take pictures of. I another couple tons of equipment, like saddle cutters for pipe, pipe benders, metal chop saws, homemade welding table(I will have to post a picture of this, you'll like it), etc... I do welding on the side as an actual taxable buisness, because the Navy shipyards here on base laid us off not too long ago, but they told me today, that they are getting a 6 month job coming up, so they said Im at the top of the list to be recalled, so that will be good. Anyways, what I have invested to date, according to what I had to claim on taxes as buisness expenses is $19,568.00, but dont get me wrong, I didnt buy all this stuff all at once, it was collected over the course of a year. Welding aint cheap, but what is nowadays, right;).
 
Those are some sweet looking welds!



Thank you, it took allot of practice to get where I am today, but if your a multi-tasker, you can tig weld. With some practice, anyone can lay down a nice bead, unless you try to tig overhead or vertical, which does take allot of practice!:)
 
Thank you, it took allot of practice to get where I am today, but if your a multi-tasker, you can tig weld. With some practice, anyone can lay down a nice bead, unless you try to tig overhead or vertical, which does take allot of practice!:)

I've only TIG'ed a couple of inches at work. SS shelf for kegerator. I got a nice weld, but the conditions were excellent and the welds were basic.

You need to post your welding table as I am getting close to doing my own. I may be able to steal a good idea or two off your design! :mug:
 
You need to post your welding table as I am getting close to doing my own. I may be able to steal a good idea or two off your design! :mug:



Will do! All I did was take these $20 steel saw horses that lowes is selling right now, and welded 4, 1/4" stainless threaded studs in which I attached tweco connectors to. This way, I can connect, and disconnect my ground cable quick and fast. I did this to both saw horses, then I bolted a 3/4" alluminum table top which is 4' by 6'. I used alluminum for the top, so that it would keep the weight down, so that one man can lift it, and tote it around. I also cut slits in the top of the table, so that I can slip my screw clamp in, to clamp my work down.
 
Will do! All I did was take these $20 steel saw horses that lowes is selling right now, and welded 4, 1/4" stainless threaded studs in which I attached tweco connectors to. This way, I can connect, and disconnect my ground cable quick and fast. I did this to both saw horses, then I bolted a 3/4" alluminum table top which is 4' by 6'. I used alluminum for the top, so that it would keep the weight down, so that one man can lift it, and tote it around. I also cut slits in the top of the table, so that I can slip my screw clamp in, to clamp my work down.

Cruz....You suck !
 
Bench welding is easy try doing those same welds above your head or vertical.Then tell me how easy it is.
 
Cruz....You suck !



I love you too lehr!!:D;)


Brewjunky, you couldnt get through Tulsa Welding School, unless you could do what you mentioned. We had to pass a 6G(for everyone else that doesnt know what a 6G position is, this is welding a pipe at a 45 degree angle) on both 2, 4, and 6" pipe, and pass a 2" stainless steel 6G pipe test as well which is like night and day, when it comes to technique, and setup. Once we bent out of all those, we then go onto this bastard called the "restrictor", which is the same 6G pipe test with tons of pipe, and obstacles in your way(Mirror welding), like it wasnt hard enough already, so yeah, I can do vertical, horizontal, overhead, sideways, slantways, retarded angle ways, and whatever ways they need me to do it;). I can make my vertical and overhead welds look like the picture I posted, just takes practice that's all. Noone is better than another, because practice is what seperates the novice from the professional.
 
I love you too lehr!!:D;)


Brewjunky, you couldnt get through Tulsa Welding School, unless you could do what you mentioned. We had to pass a 6G(for everyone else that doesnt know what a 6G position is, this is welding a pipe at a 45 degree angle) on both 2, 4, and 6" pipe, and pass a 2" stainless steel 6G pipe test as well which is like night and day, when it comes to technique, and setup. Once we bent out of all those, we then go onto this bastard called the "restrictor", which is the same 6G pipe test with tons of pipe, and obstacles in your way(Mirror welding), like it wasnt hard enough already, so yeah, I can do vertical, horizontal, overhead, sideways, slantways, retarded angle ways, and whatever ways they need me to do it;). I can make my vertical and overhead welds look like the picture I posted, just takes practice that's all. Noone is better than another, because practice is what seperates the novice from the professional.

I was directing my comment at the original poster so settle down ;)
 
Bench welding is easy try doing those same welds above your head or vertical.Then tell me how easy it is.

Thank you! This is what I was certified with stick, Mig and Tig, out of position hence why I stated it took a long time for me to master this, there must be some people born with a tig torch in their hand stating they picked it right up.
Like I mentioned before and this without alcohol the night before, you can have a bad day of welding and nothing will correct it then the next a fun
dream day of welding.

Water district pump stations as well GM, NUMMI plant and Navy projects we worked on did not take ones mouth as a answer they can weld, they wanted to see a piece of paper and at times required taking a welding test.
I have to tell you one thing it was a proud time in my life with my papers as I had to work for them, many others had failed. Now out of it and forced into early retirement due to a back injury. Rusty now yes, can't lean forward and get the body into the weld any more. I could never weld like on American Chopper with one arm out fully extended without bracing. One employee built a motorcycle trailer at the shop with the stick on a weekend, three months later and 400 miles from home he littered the highway with more iron. This was two Harley's as the trailer broke apart behind the hitch hence no safety chains. It wouldn't matter anyway with all that heavy iron the chains would of snapped anyway.The trailer had numbers and plate off another trailer placed on it, the CHP said it would of failed inspection at 50' just damn lucky no one was hurt. Round two new bikes and a paid custom trailer by a weling shop. This time thru DMV licensed properly as the sting of the last fines were rather stiff. He said he can weld. I called him BSA not the motorcycle but "Bird Chit Accident". Just laugh.
 
it's one of those lincoln electric wire-feeds, sells for around $270 I think. I'm not a welder and knew nothing about it prior to this weekend, "buzzbox" is what my welding friends call it. It plugs into standard household outlets and feeds .035" wire (flux core I think) and is pretty simple to use. It DID take a lot of practice to get the hang of, and I did use some scrap for, um, some of that practice. The rest is in the less visible welds. :)

I really do need to grind on it a while (with my new grinder, I may have to buy one of those welders soon, too). THen paint it...

Well your wire feed is DC not what your friends call a "buzzbox".
To grind down a weld is a sin unless it has to be flush like a stainless
sink top not to grind down what the birds left behind.
 
try TIG and get back to me on "not so hard"

never could get the hang of feeding the wire in TIG
 
try TIG and get back to me on "not so hard"

never could get the hang of feeding the wire in TIG



To be honest, stick welding for me, was harder than tig. For some reason the people that were excellent at stick, were horrible at tig, and I was the opposite, but I did eventually master stick. Tig came natural to me, after the first couple welds. Even that tig is easy for me, I can see why people would have problems with tig, their is allot going on at once. Alluminum tig welding was a little hard, even for me that was really good at all the other metals, as soon as I started alluminum, It was like I couldnt tig weld, but alluminum reacts different, needs to be super clean, and your tungsten has to be balled right. It took a little bit, but now its second nature. Orangevango, Id teach you if you were closer, I taught guys that couldnt walk and chew gum at the same time to tig weld.
 
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