How to make a yeast starter - Pictorial

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I've searched around some and haven't found a definitive answer on this... is the only purpose in making a yeast starter to increase the cell count or are their other benefits as well?
 
itsme_timd said:
I've searched around some and haven't found a definitive answer on this... is the only purpose in making a yeast starter to increase the cell count or are their other benefits as well?

It can also be used to verify the health/validity of the yeast - especially if it is old. It it does take off in the starter then you know it isn't good.
 
It can also be used to verify the health/validity of the yeast - especially if it is old. It it does take off in the starter then you know it isn't good.

Thanks. I'm assuming that should read "doesn't take off in the starter", will let you know it's no good.
 
itsme_timd said:
Thanks. I'm assuming that should read "doesn't take off in the starter", will let you know it's no good.

Correct - if it doesn't react to the starter wort you've got issues.
 
Newbie Question for the Yeast Starter Thread:

Can I use extra pre-boiled wort (i.e., liter or so out of the last bit of lautering) to use with the yeast?

I was thinking about just boiling the wort for 20 minutes, maybe even with a little hops, to add to the yeast. Good idea? Bad idea?
 
Newbie Question for the Yeast Starter Thread:

Can I use extra pre-boiled wort (i.e., liter or so out of the last bit of lautering) to use with the yeast?

For harvesting the yeast you don't want any sugars in there, just water. The idea is to keep the little guys dormant until you are ready to wake them up and put them to work again.
 
no matter what...the starter will ensure your yeast is viable, get it active and ready to pitch, and it's fun too :D

i've been using a lot of dry yeast lately and reused quite a few yeast cakes...haven't made a starter in some time.

Do you mean that you pitch from slur?
 
I usually do mine about 7 days before I plan to brew. After about 5 days I throw it in the fridge. When I start brewing I decant most of the beer off the top of it and swirl around the rest until all the yeast are into suspension. Let it rest and come to room temp for the next 3 hours while I brew, put them back into suspension and pitch those little bastards into your wort like it's 18 years old ready to go out into the world and do what it's made for. I also can my starters. I'll be posting a how-to next time I do it. It's great.

Hi there

I'd like to see that post you are talking about in your comment. Did you eventually create it?
 
I will never say that anyone is doing anything wrong in regards to their yeast starters. I just want to inform everyone how I have done it on my last batch of an IPA. I used a vial of San Diego Super Yeast that was past the expiration. I used 150 grams of DME for my starter and did 1500 mL. The beer turned out really great. I work at a pretty up an coming brewery. My brew master always tells me the two easiest things to fix, in brewing, are under-pitching and oxygenation of your wort. His advice was to do a 2000mL. starter and to invest in an air stone for oxygenation. Mentioned it was the easiest fix to many of your homebrew issues. Over-pitch. Coming from a guy that started as a homebrewer and did it for 18 years before he became pro, his information is invaluable and I trust it tremendously. Especially after tasting the beers he makes that are shocking the nation.
 
I will never say that anyone is doing anything wrong in regards to their yeast starters. I just want to inform everyone how I have done it on my last batch of an IPA. I used a vial of San Diego Super Yeast that was past the expiration. I used 150 grams of DME for my starter and did 1500 mL. The beer turned out really great. I work at a pretty up an coming brewery. My brew master always tells me the two easiest things to fix, in brewing, are under-pitching and oxygenation of your wort. His advice was to do a 2000mL. starter and to invest in an air stone for oxygenation. Mentioned it was the easiest fix to many of your homebrew issues. Over-pitch. Coming from a guy that started as a homebrewer and did it for 18 years before he became pro, his information is invaluable and I trust it tremendously. Especially after tasting the beers he makes that are shocking the nation.

Not to take anything away from this person (or to get off topic) but what he is saying is not the best advice. Yes under pitching and not aerating enough are two problems of brewing but they are not the only problems. Over pitching and over aerating is not the solution to all those problems either. Actually they can cause new problems. Over pitching isn't good for the yeast or the flavor of your beer. When yeast multiple they create esters and flavors that make a beer (hefeweizen is a great example). If you over pitch, the yeast have no reason to multiple and they won't create those flavors you are looking for. Granted it is easier to under pitch than over pitch but saying the solution to a lot of the problems is to over pitch is incorrect. Over aerating isn't a solution either though it is much harder for home brewers to over aerating especially when the shaking method is used.
 
I reached the end! I reached the end! :ban: :rockin: Whew. Lots of good info. Ready to get to brewing with some washed yeast. Now to brew a style that fits a yeast I have washed...... :)
 
Although I do have 1 question now. I did a second laudering on a 1 gal all grain batch I did yesterday single malt 2 row, I am only getting an og after boil of 12 - 14. Should I boil down more to try to get it in the 30 range or is 12 - 14 ok since we're trying to multiply and not make beer?
 
Here is a question I'm sure has been asked before and I have made starters countless times and never really thought about it and never had a problem but here's a million dollar question...... lets say I am using mr.malty and it says I need to use 2 vials of yeast in 1.36 liters of starter wort ..... or even if I am not using mr.malty and I use calculator "x"....... when it says I should have a certain amount of liters are they referring to before or after the DME is added ? so is it like in the mr malty example use 1/36 liters of water and then add the DME and it becomes more like 1.5 liters of wort or more because of the differential of volumes because I am adding a substance or is it 1.36 liters and that is already accounting for the difference of the added DME ? I hope that made sense the way I asked the question.
 
I'm by far no expert, I always figured it was the volume before you add the DME... Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I was going to make a new thread but figured this would be a good place as well...The picture tutorial was great on the first page but I just got a stir plate. How do I incorperate this in to the process?
 
How exactly do you make the aluminum foil covering? Just drape it over and fold it down, as if you were storing food overnight? And is there any consensus on whether it's worth the risk to use foil for extra oxygen but sacrificing a bit of sanitization security?
 
How exactly do you make the aluminum foil covering? Just drape it over and fold it down, as if you were storing food overnight? And is there any consensus on whether it's worth the risk to use foil for extra oxygen but sacrificing a bit of sanitization security?

I take sheet of foil and fold it into a square then spray it down with Starsan and cover my flask. I've never had any issues with infections or anything. Since the foil is draped 1-2" down the side of the bottle and sanitized it's going to be hard for anything to get in there.
 
I have access to an autoclave at work and I was wondering about using a surgical drape as a top. It is like a cloth/paper material and should be pretty porous as it has to allow steam to get through it in the autoclave. My thought is I can sterilize small pieces in the autoclave and use them as a top. Once they are ran through the autoclave in the proper package they are considered sterile for a year. I could also do this with the foil but it is a little harder to keep it sterile and open it up. Wondering if anyone has tried this or has any thoughts on it?
 
If a starter isn't quite done does it hurt to go ahead and put it in the fridge to drop the yeast?

I am brewing in the morning and would prefer to decant rather than letting the starter go over night and dumping the entire starter.

Thoughts??
 
If a starter isn't quite done does it hurt to go ahead and put it in the fridge to drop the yeast?

I am brewing in the morning and would prefer to decant rather than letting the starter go over night and dumping the entire starter.

Thoughts??

I've done this several times with no ill effects. I have noticed that it doesn't take off as quickly, but 4 or 5 hours doesn't make much of a difference.
 
If a starter isn't quite done does it hurt to go ahead and put it in the fridge to drop the yeast?

I am brewing in the morning and would prefer to decant rather than letting the starter go over night and dumping the entire starter.

Thoughts??
If it's not done, it hasn't grown as much yeast as it would have. Whether that matters or not, depends on how many cells you needed and how many you have.
 
Does it bother anyone else that the picture doesn't have anything about topping up to 800 ml in it? I think this probably ruins a lot of starters for some people.

I snuck in a step about that. I hope it helps people.

YeastStarterChart2.jpg
 
Nice picture! Although, I personally don't prefer an airlock on my starters, as I like to 02 in their. I used to just use foil (not super tight), but mostly use a foam stopper lately. Might be good to have a step added about frequent shaking for good aeration or a stir-plate. I believe that plays a big part in the effectiveness of a starter as well.


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I never top up my starters. I just make a slightly bigger one than I need to account for boil off. It's such a small volume that cooling is easy so I don't see a need to top off.
 
From a newbie, is DME essential for the first step or could you use LME? If so, would you change the ratios at all?
 
so i live in finland and dme and lme are expensive. but grain is really cheap. so what 'nano' mash could i make to get what i need for a starter? its worth my time and i BIAB.
thanks
 
I mash my starter wort rather than using extract, in part for the cost and in party because I pressure can it so I can make starters quickly without having to boil and chill every time. I make a1.040 wort using full volume BIAB, then can it on quarts, pints and half pints. I mash at 148 for a couple hours to create a highly fermentable wort. I happen to be doing this at this very second.

1411188462148.jpg
 
Yes I also think that to achieve good growth phase and like some people say "fermentation", it is not enough to just adding sugar and specialty products.
 
This is a really stupid question. What is the process of decant? You make a starter, put it in the fridge overnight, pour out (down the drain?) the liquid leaving just enough to get the yeast in suspension again. Then pitch the remainder at room temp when ready?
 
I'm reading been reading a lot on yeast starters, but to me they seem much more difficult to get right, and keep them from becoming infected, or mutating.

Do you find tempreture are more critical w a starter vs a batch of beer?
 
I had this idea (I'm sure I'm not the first). After pouring my beer into a glass, I noticed about 1/2 oz of beer and yeast on the bottom Of my bottle. So I saved them from many bottles into one bottle. By the time I was done w a batch of beer I accumulated 2 16oz bottles of beer and yeast. Can I use this to
Make a yeast starter, or is it only good as a boiled yeast nutrient?

Does anyone save the yeast and tiny bit of beer from a previous batch?
 
I'm reading been reading a lot on yeast starters, but to me they seem much more difficult to get right, and keep them from becoming infected, or mutating.

Do you find tempreture are more critical w a starter vs a batch of beer?

You are probably overthinking this. When I make a starter, they always kick off better at room temperature (around 72~ F), and after 36-48 hours, are ready to pitch. I only focus on temperature control when I am fermenting a batch of beer. It will take longer to get a starter rolling in cooler temps. Cheers!
 
I had this idea (I'm sure I'm not the first). After pouring my beer into a glass, I noticed about 1/2 oz of beer and yeast on the bottom Of my bottle. So I saved them from many bottles into one bottle. By the time I was done w a batch of beer I accumulated 2 16oz bottles of beer and yeast. Can I use this to
Make a yeast starter, or is it only good as a boiled yeast nutrient?

Does anyone save the yeast and tiny bit of beer from a previous batch?

You can use this yeast, however it has a much greater risk of contamination than vials or yeast from the fermenter. Think of how ground beef is more prone to infection than steak.
 
I'm reading been reading a lot on yeast starters, but to me they seem much more difficult to get right, and keep them from becoming infected, or mutating.

Do you find tempreture are more critical w a starter vs a batch of beer?

Starters are really easy, just follow basic sanitation practices and you will have a great starter. The temp question is tricky, it really depends on how you are going to use the starter. If you decant then you can ignore temp control as the yeast will grow fastest at 90*F. If you want to pitch at high krausen then you need to have the starter within 5*F of the wort you are pitching into. Within those two extremes lies a whole range of possibilities and I believe that using sound judgement of what kind of flavors you are working with should dictate what you do.
 
Can someone tell me how soon is too soon to pitch a starter? I made a starter last night and plan to brew this morning. Is that too quick of a turnaround to pitch it? Should I wait at least 24 hours? Thanks!
 
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