I have heard that people generally put hops in the boiling wort at 60, 25, 5 minutes.However....the 60 minute boil addition is for bittering....which is okay. Then the 5 minute is for aroma and flavour. Then why should be a hopping at 25 minutes too? The oils from hops disappear between 15-20 minutes...so, doesn't it make more sense to bitter at 60 and then put hops twice at 10 and 5 minutes close to the end of the boil for nice aroma/flavour addition? Instead of wasting hops at 25 minutes for bittering...the entire bittering process can be done with the 60-min addition...right?
hopping times at 60,25,5 mins??
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jeremy0209
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It can, but it will be a different bitterness...it's hard to explain. I guess you could say it's like different layers of flavor instead of one bittering charge and the rest for a little flavor and aroma.....hops added at different and more even times throughout the boil result in a more 'round' beer. That's all I got. Think Dogfish Head 60 minute IPA....continuously adding hops guarantees you the full range of bitterness, flavor, and aroma. The best way to learn is to experiment and take detailed notes
jeremy0209
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BTW, one of the best beers I ever made was a 38 IBU, 1.052 pale ale that didn't start hop additions until there were 15 minutes left in the boil...it was fan-freakin'-tastic. The keg didn't even last three weeks.
Thunder_Chicken
Well-Known Member
In some styles you don't do each of bittering, flavor, and aroma hops. Many stouts are looking for straight bittering to balance the malt, but not so much flavor or aroma to let the grain flavor and aroma shine through. I just did the Deception cream stout, only has one bittering addition of Magnum at 60 minutes. Magnum is regarded as a "clean" bittering hop, as all it really contributes is bitterness.
In smaller beers you might lean heavier on the later flavor and aroma hop additions, keeping total bittering IBUs lower in balance with the lighter grain bill. In those beers hops are the center of the show, but more to showcase their flavor and aroma. A blonde or pale ale with pure bittering would not be a tasty beer even if you could get the IBUs to balance the grain bill.
In smaller beers you might lean heavier on the later flavor and aroma hop additions, keeping total bittering IBUs lower in balance with the lighter grain bill. In those beers hops are the center of the show, but more to showcase their flavor and aroma. A blonde or pale ale with pure bittering would not be a tasty beer even if you could get the IBUs to balance the grain bill.
Elysium
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jeremy0209
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pitched 200ml of US-05 slurry that was 48 hrs old, fermented 12 days at 68F, kegged, carbed for 7 days, and the keg was gone two weeks latergood to hear this.Can you tell me how long you fermented it? Thanks.
ArcaneXor
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I don't think there is such a thing as a "general" hopping schedule. I usually do 60/15/1, but I deviate from that quite a bit. Yesterday, for example, I just did FWH and 60'. The brew before I did 60/30/20/15/10/5/1.
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. More additions give you more layering of hop characteristics, up to a point.
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. More additions give you more layering of hop characteristics, up to a point.
TheZymurgist
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For what it's worth, I usually do a First Wort Hop addition, then I add my bittering hops throughout the boil, rather than having the one big addition at the beginning. I think it does create a smoother bitterness and a little more depth. It does use an ounce or two more hops since you get less bitterness with the latter additions, too. I tend to like my hop flavors heavier on the aroma side, anyway. My IPAs are slightly less bitter than most of the commercial examples, but then I'll pack a ton of hops in the carboy for dry hopping. Just experiment to find what you like. You may find you prefer just one huge bittering charge at the beginning, then throwing all of your aroma hops in at flame out. Or you can try hop bursting, where all the hops, even bittering hops, are added late in the boil.
Elysium
Well-Known Member
pitched 200ml of US-05 slurry that was 48 hrs old, fermented 12 days at 68F, kegged, carbed for 7 days, and the keg was gone two weeks later
And what did you brew? I mean what hops and malt did you use?
Thanks for the reply.
m3n00b
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I just did a cream ale where I put 1oz of mt hood in w 15 min remaining. Can't wait to try it. Never made anything less than 18ibus....this will be about 7.
Elysium
Well-Known Member
Well, my 1st batch (and so far the only
) is a SMaSH, MO/Saaz....IBU 42. It is in the extra hoppy region....cant wait to try that. Thanks for sharing the info on your beer. Let us know how the 7 IBU beer turns out to be. Malty, but balanced?
jeremy0209
Well-Known Member
It was a 15 Minute Pale Ale. 6lb Muntons Extra Light DME, 1lb Crystal 40, 1oz Simcoe (15 min), 1oz each Centennial & Cascade (7 min), and 1oz each Centennial & Cascade (flameout). 200ml slurry of US-05 that was 48 hours old. Adjusted water profile was: Calcium 160ppm, Chloride 108ppm, and Sulfate 235ppm. Boiled for a total of 30 min, adding hops from 15 to 0
I'm usually an all grain brewer, but I love these quick and easy batches. They're great for the 'after work' brew sessions....and this particular beer was just as good as any all grain I've ever done.
Elysium
Well-Known Member
Is it called 15-minute pale ale..because of the hopping times
or because it is that easy to prepare? I guess it is the 1st option.
jeremy0209
Well-Known Member
It's definitely the easiest beer you'll ever make.
jeremy0209
Well-Known Member
here's a thread about it....I got the idea from Basic Brewing Radio and then I started searching around and came across this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/15-minute-cascade-pale-ale-210253/
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