Getting ready for 1st All Grain

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brewmeister13

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I am getting ready for my 1st all grain and want to make sure that I have everything that I am going to need (my LHBS is 45 min away). I need to make one more trip to my LHBS and want it to be my last.

I have the simple stuff like grains and hops and yeast. I have everything ready to go for my system, except the HLT, which I am picking up from my LHBS. I have Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, Calcium Carbonate and Epsom salt to adjust the mash water (using RO/Distilled) to get the mash at 5.2 or so. I have Lactic Acid to keep the sparge runnings below 6. I also have a PH meter to keep tabs on my PH. Is there anything else I should have on hand that I may be missing for mashing and sparging?
 
I'm assuming simple things like a thermometer, paddle, hydrometer, etc are covered from pre AG batches? Make sure you've got something accurately measure strike and sparge volumes and it sounds like you've get it pretty much covered.

Good luck on your first AG batch and let us know how it turns out.

Cheers
 
I'm assuming simple things like a thermometer, paddle, hydrometer, etc are covered from pre AG batches? Make sure you've got something accurately measure strike and sparge volumes and it sounds like you've get it pretty much covered.

Good luck on your first AG batch and let us know how it turns out.

Cheers

I do have everything from the extract batches that I was doing. As far as measuring volumes, I have some boilermakers with sight glasses. Are they accurate enough to measure the volumes or do I need something else I am unaware of? Also, how do people measure the PH and gravity of their sparge runnings? Do you just pump it into a beaker or something? Is there risk of hot side aeration when mashing and sparging?
 
I batch sparge and have never paid any attention to PH levels so I have no advise there, but IMO there is absolutely NO risk of hot side aeration. I am among the side that thinks that in homebrewing it does not even exist.

The most I can say is it seems like you have all the required equipment. Sit and plan all the steps. Maybe even a checklist. Try to have a good idea of everything you will need to do during the brew even before starting. If you pay attention and don't do anything strange the biggest difference between extract and all grain is that there are more steps and it takes longer. I set up my laptop with Beersmith opened and my recipe open for the timer, start some music and enjoy the day. Have fun! :ban:
 
You haven't mentioned the most important piece of equipment you need for all grain brewing. An accurate thermometer. When you brew extract with steeping grains a 10 degree discrepancy from what you intended won't make much difference in the final brew but that can be a disaster with all grain. I used a thermometer that read 4 degrees hotter than the actual temperature so I mashed 4 degrees low by accident. That beer should have finished at about 1.016 but instead was 1.002 which made it a much different beer than was intended.
 
You haven't mentioned the most important piece of equipment you need for all grain brewing. An accurate thermometer.

Got it covered. The Boilermakers have a thermometer that I've calibrated and is only off by a couple of degrees and, thanks to my wife going to culinary school, I have a thermapen, which is accurate to within less than a degree, to double check my numbers.

Thanks for the suggestions and if anyone else can weigh in on sparge PH and hot side aeration, I would appreciate it. Last thing, maybe, when checking mash ph, do I do it right after doughing in and then make my adjustments.
 
Got it covered. The Boilermakers have a thermometer that I've calibrated and is only off by a couple of degrees and, thanks to my wife going to culinary school, I have a thermapen, which is accurate to within less than a degree, to double check my numbers.

Thanks for the suggestions and if anyone else can weigh in on sparge PH and hot side aeration, I would appreciate it. Last thing, maybe, when checking mash ph, do I do it right after doughing in and then make my adjustments.

That's the most important time to have the mash pH correct. Quicker is better as conversion starts as soon as the grains get wet. With my BIAB batch that I tested with iodine, within 7 minutes the mash showed negative for starch. That grain was milled very fine but it surprised me to see how fast the enzymes work. If your grains are milled a bit coarser you have a little more time but don't wait too long.
 
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