Bottle bombs set?

[Morg]

So yesterday I was bottling my 6th batch of homebrew, the AG version of Centennial Blonde by Biermuncher, and probably did a pretty stupid thing. Everything was going fine, the 18 liters (4.75 gal) of beer were primed with 107 grams (3.77 ounces) of cane sugar (for 2.5 vol of CO2, according to beersmith) in the bottling bucket and I was about to start filling those bottles. That´s when I realized I was missing my FG reading. I pulled a sample, set it aside, bottled, capped and stored the whole batch.
Only then I remembered to look at the hydrometer. It was reading 1018, when it should be much much lower, about 1010.
Could those 8 or more gravity points be due to the priming sugar? It seems a lot. Or did I have an incomplete fermentation and now am on my way to overcarbonation and bottle bombs?
My OG was 1046 and I fermented with Nothingan by Danstar for 16 days at 16-18 C (61-65 F), no secondary fermenter.
Thanks for helping. It´s my first post here, but I have been reading for quite awhile. This forum has been my major source of information.
I was actually planning to crack a bottle a day until carbonated and then chill the whole batch and drink as fast as can .

 

[Yooper]

The reading with priming sugar is usually .004 points or so. That means your FG is more like 1.014. That's probably fine, as I have several recipes that finish there. It really only matters if the FG is still changing.

 

[Morg]

Thanks Yooper. That's relieving. The tought of flying glass is almost as scary as the spilled homebrew.
I usually don't take repeatedly FG readings, should I? It just seems like such a waste. It's 250 ml for every hydrometer reading. Maybe I should spend a few more bucks in refractometer. How do you usually do?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks Yooper. That's relieving. The tought of flying glass is almost as scary as the spilled homebrew.
I usually don't take repeatedly FG readings, should I? It just seems like such a waste. It's 250 ml for every hydrometer reading. Maybe I should spend a few more bucks in refractometer. How do you usually do?

I just check the FG before packaging, if it's been in the fermenter for at least 10 days or more and it's been inactive for at least 5 days or so. Another sign is that the beer is clear. If the beer is clear, the yeast is not actively fermenting. If the beer is not clear, I cover it back up and wait.

Before I had as much experience as I do now, I would check a FG about 3 days before I planned to bottle and then check again on bottling day.

The "gold standard" of knowing when fermentation is finished is at least three days at the same FG AND being in the expected range of the FG.

 

[Morg]

Next time I'll do that for sure. Thanks for taking the time to respond.