Tips Pls for my "Rippin Trippin Double IPA with Yerba Mate and Chamomile"

[jrw1111]

Hey :fro:

This will be my third beer brew and I want to do it as well and great and strong as I possibly can allow for. I've done a partial mash and an extract brew, both of which turned out GREAT and am thinking about doing a partial mash with all organic ingredients from this site: https://www.breworganic.com

My plan is to do, boil, and brew what I will call a "Rippin Trippin Double IPA with Yerba Mate and Chamomile"

Basically at some point I will be adding an infusion of Yerba Mate and Chamomile to the brew, probably when I add the remaining 2 or so gallons of water to the wort before pitching yeast.

I will be getting a new 3gal brew pot along with all the ingredients for the brew from this site, including yeast, shipped to me before this Friday. The brew will start Friday at some point, just feels right to start something so damn cool on a Friday, Friday being a funday for me-and thats what its about, fun brewing, fun process, brewing for funs sake.





So i'm looking for recipe tips because this is the first time I'm going to create my own recipe, please give me suggestions wherever you want to add something.

I want it to be a strong ass ale, probably all 2 row, I'm thinking 5 lbs would be good in the new 3 gal pot.
http://www.breworganic.com/great-western-california-select-organic-2-row-malt---1-lb.aspx

I would be using probably 6 lbs liquid malt extract, used 6 lbs on an earlier brew and it turned out great!
http://www.breworganic.com/briessorganicliquidmaltextract.aspx

100 minute boil with a ton of organic hops, pellets and whole cones added in the mixxxxxx; 100 min boil would be dang good and then would be adding hops every 10 minutes (adding a good amount every 10 minutes or so is an idea i'm adapting from 120 minute dogfish head replication attempts)

Heres a link to one of the hops I'm considering using:
http://www.breworganic.com/Organic-American-Chinook-Whole-Hops.aspx
http://www.breworganic.com/certifiedorganichops.aspx

The hops I would use are:
American Bravo Organic Whole Hops
American Summit Organic Whole Hops
Challenger Organic Whole Hops
---would probably use whole hops to dry hop
Whitbread Goldings Variety Hop Pellets 2 oz.
New Zealand Rakau Pellet Hops 2 oz.
New Zealand Wakatu (Hallertaur) Pellet Hops 2 oz.
Belgian Cascade Hop Pellets 2 oz.
Maybe add:
New Zealand Nelson Sauvin Pellet Hops 2 oz.
German Hallertauer Mittlefruh Pellet Hops 1 oz.

All the hops I just listed are organic and labeled so on the site. I will definitely dry hop as well at least 4 oz.

And I would probably use this yeast:
http://www.breworganic.com/whitelabspacificale.aspx

For process I would use the partial mash instruction list I used for the previous beer brews I've used that has worked superbly, I just have to find it in the next couple days.

So ummm YEAHHHHHHHHHHH
Whatup with your ideas/suggestions/questions/all that?
THANKS FOR READING
APPRECIATE WHATEVER YOU WANT TO ADD
THANKS

 

[jrw1111]

Here is the instruction list I just found online:
PARTIAL MASH METHOD #2

This method is for when the recipe calls for 2.5 to 5 lbs of grain and requires a metal (NOT PLASTIC) spaghetti colander.

In a separate pot from your regular brewing pot (2 to 3 gallon capacity), place 1.5 gallons of water and raise the temperature to 158° to 160°.
Place LOOSE grains in the water (no bag).
Place lid on pot and cover with towel and leave for 45 minutes.
Place colander in regular brewing pot. Colander should catch on the handles and be suspended on the pot. Dump loose grains from first pot into colander.
Note: Grains will be left in colander and sweet wort will fall into pot.

Rinse out 1st pot and place 1.5 gallons of water in pot and raise temperature to 180°.
Tip: Start out with hot water from the tap in the interest of saving time.

With pyrex measuring cup or ladle, slowly drizzle this water over grains in colander.
Note: This is the lautering process, commonly called sparging, which rinses the remaining sugars from the grain bed.

Remove colander with grains and feed to the pigs or place on a compost pile.
As you can see this process is ridiculously simple, so resist the temptation to make it complicated.

Note: What you have just done is exactly the same process as an all grain brew except that you do not need larger vessels to contain the grains..

From this point on continue as in any regular extract batch, bringing your wort up to a boil and adding your grains. IT IS IMPORTANT TO TURN OFF FIRE WHEN ADDING EXTRACT.

 

[jrw1111]

And heres this too, don't feel like you have to read it all, posting for those who would want to read it and give suggestions, this is the instruction list I used for the partial mash I did with this companies kit:
Fill a 5 gallon stainless steel or enamel pot 2/3 full of water (3 gallons more or less).
Place specialty grains into cheesecloth grain bag and add this bag to the pot of cold water. Add water treatment if called for. Heat this pot at high temperature. At the point you begin to see steam starting to rise from the surface of the water (145° to 165°) turn off the stove and cover the pot with the lid. Steep grains for 35 minutes (more or less). Remove grains and discard them. You now have a grain tea and the start of your WORT.
Note: WORT is essentially beer before fermentation.
Note: Please do not heat these grains to anywhere near boiling, as this will leach tannins (tannic acid) from the husk of the grains and could give your beer an astringent characteristic.
Heat WORT at high temperature until close to a boil (pot starts making noise).
If using a gas stove turn off fire. If using an electric stove, remove the pot from the burner (very important).
Add all of the malt extract (liquid or dry) and first addition of hops. Stir until well mixed.
Return WORT to burner. Bring to a full boil. Watch pot carefully at this point. A foam develops on the surface of the WORT and it could rise above the surface of the pot and create a mess. Watch pot until foam disappears.
Achieve a good strong ROLLING boil. This is important as the WORT needs to be agitated as much as possible to coagulate undesirable proteins and release desirable oils from the hops.
Boil vigorously for 60 minutes total, adding hops at intervals indicated on the recipe sheet.
At end of boil (after 60 minutes), turn off heat and COVER POT WITH LID.
Place covered pot on ice and water bath (sink) for 45 minutes. This will be added to 2.5 gallons of cool water which will further reduce the temperature.
START YEAST STARTER See below
Visit the Yeast section of our store to find the yeast for your next batch of beer
IMPORTANT - Place 2.5 gallons of cool water in your primary fermenter. Pour 1/3 of cooled WORT into fermenter with water. PITCH (add) yeast.
Vigorously pour other 2/3 of cooled WORT into fermenter over yeast.

Note: this step aerates the WORT and mixes the yeast without having to stir or shake.

Place lid on fermenter, tightly (without airlock).
Place fermenter someplace your environment has a steady temperature (+/- 2° in 24 hrs). Ales should be fermented at 65 to 75°. lagers should be at 45 to 65° depending on the yeast.

START YEAST

a. Add 1 cup warm water in small sanitized glass, stainless steel or ceramic bowl (a Pyrex measuring cup is good). Optional - Add a pinch of diammonium phosphate (yeast nutrient). Add yeast, DO NOT STIR, cover tightly with plastic wrap and set aside.
b. Yeast likes a location where the temperature doesn't vary much in a 24 hour period.

Put a small amount of water in the airlock and insert airlock into the rubber stopper on top of the fermenter.
CONGRATULATIONS! In 12 to 15 hours your beer will start to ferment, indicated by the bubbling in the airlock. Leave in your primary for no more than 6 days.
Secondary Fermentation. Place primary fermenter on a table, bench or stool. Let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Take largest diameter plastic tube and attach it to the end of the spigot. Place the other end in the secondary fermenter (glass carboy or bucket) and open the spigot and drain the beer into the secondary fermenter. Place a clean airlock and rubber stopper on fermenter as in step 17.
At this point, beer will be hazy. It will begin to clarify from top to bottom of fermenter. When haze has dropped completely to the bottom (6-12 days, sometimes longer) it is ready to bottle.
BOTTLING
For your bottling needs see the Bottling & Kegging section of our store

Sanitize racking equipment

Orange carboy cap
Smaller diameter siphon hose
Racking Cane
Bottle filler
Bottles
READ ABOUT SANITIZATION (Bottom of Page) OF BOTTLES AND CAPS FIRST.

We will be racking the beer directly from the secondary to the bottles. We are opposed to the common method of using a bottling bucket for several reasons.

a. It is unnecessary. Why not rack beer straight into the bottle?
b. You avoid oxidation by eliminating the bottling bucket.
c. You will lessen the chance of contamination.
Take 3/4 to 1 cup of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Turn off heat, and dump in all the dextrose (normally pre-measured in the kit to 4.5 oz) in the hot water, making a simple syrup. Dump hot syrup directly into secondary fermenter. Place sanitized bottling outfit (as pictured) 2/3 of the way down fermenter and stir GENTLY and SLOWLY for 2 minutes with racking cane (carboy cap is flexible). Let settle.
At this point a siphon is unavoidable. Some new brewers find this problematic. Our suggestion would be to practice siphoning before doing the real thing. This will avoid a major panic which none of us needs. The easiest way for most brewers to start the siphon is to fill the bottling outfit (as pictured) with water. Remember the tip of the bottle filler must be depressed to fill with water. From here on it is simple. Loosen carboy cap. Take a large bottle or pitcher and empty the water from the bottling outfit. When beer reaches bottle filler, start filling your bottles. Fill to the very top. Removal of the bottle filler from the bottle will displace about 3/4 inches of beer. Letting bottles sit uncapped for a short period of time allows for some CO2 production which protects beer from oxidation, so fill all bottles before starting the capping.
NOW IT'S TIME TO CAP!

Here are some guidelines.
a. Practice on some empty bottles.
b. Capping doesn't take a lot of force. Use a light touch.
c. It will become easy after a few tries.

After capping, put bottles at room temperature (65-75° for ales) for 2 weeks. At this time it will be fully carbonated and ready to drink, for most ales.
SANITIZING AND BOTTLE CAPS

Rinse bottles out (bottle washer is a help). Bottles are most easily sanitized by dry heat. Remember that 140° is pasteurization temperature, which is fully sanitizing. Keeping this in mind, place in dishwasher and spin dial to drying cycle (NO SOAP!). If you don't have a dishwasher, place bottles in an oven, set to warm for 20 minutes or so. Bottles can also be wet sanitized by soaking in idophor sanitizer solution and air drying. DO NOT SANITIZE CAPS IN SANITIZING SOLUTION. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan, turn off heat, and throw in bottle caps. This is sufficient sanitation for caps.