Stuck Fermentations and Bottling

[Rohan Goswami]

So I had posted a different thread a few days back, where the problem was so something else. First time brewing, so I'm cutting myself some slack. So here's the low down.

Did not goof up on the first step that is sanitizing, for a while at least. Had difficulties sourcing the required ingredients and maybe they were not compatible, I don't know. Went for the basics that I picked up from "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" like using 2.8-3.2kg of Malt Extract for a full bodied beer, to the hops, procured based on the AA percentage. Put in 1oz of Hallertau Magnum at 15% as the boiling hop for 60 minutes with 3KG of Malt extract (don't know what kind as the two options I had were 1. Dried Malt Extract and, 2. Imported Dried Malt Extract), put in 1/2 oz of Fuggles at roughly 5.5% for the final 15 minutes. Poured in the wort into my fermenting bucket with a lot of splashing, although it might not have been enough. This was a partial boil with 2 Gallons of water in the initial wort, topped up to 5 gallons with cold water.

Here are what I feel the mistakes were.

1. Too much of the boiling hops and not enough of the finishing. The beer tastes too bitter and not enough of the flavor. The flavor is present, but it's a little too subtle.
2. The initial OG reading I took was at a temperature higher than the calibration. Although there were other errors, like improper mixing, which ended up in me thinking the OG was at 1.080, when in fact, it should have been around 1.059 because of the amount of malt extract I used.
3. Didn't wait for the wort to cool enough. I had no idea how long the wort would take to cool, so I hydrated the yeast 15 minutes into the transfer. Despite wrapping a wet shirt around the bucket with the fan completely facing it, I feel I pitched it at a temperature that was a little too high.
4. Despite the thick layer of krausen on the top, the airlock wasn't bubbling. So I panicked. Read a bit, but not quite enough. Thinking the cork wasn't completely in, I tried pushing it down which is when the unsanitised airlock fell into the beer and I had to open the lid and pick it out. My hands weren't sanitized. I thought my beer was done for. Four days after that, the beer still tastes fine, maybe it wasn't that bad.

The situation right now.

Thinking the initial temperature was too high and that the yeast had died, I repitched another sachet of yeast on the second day.
From the second day on, the hydrometer reading has been at 1.032. It's been eight days now, and for the past six days, the reading has been constant. The temperature isn't too low, on the contrary, rather, it's in the higher 70s range.

What are my options right now?

1. Can I un-stick the fermentation? I've read forums, but I don't know what approach would be the most applicable.
2. Can I bottle the beers? Have the yeast completely died? Will they work? Should I prime the beer before bottling? Will there be too many unfermented sugars and leading to the much dreaded bottle bombs? Any other approach you could think of?

I am at a complete loss and I just can't seem to relax. The fact that I contaminated the mix is really putting me on an edge as the yeast ave stopped working and now it's the bacteria who might take over.


Would really REALLY appreciate some help.


Thanks and many cheers!!

 

[RPh_Guy]

You are describing two different batches?
Can you describe your process for only the batch for which you need help?

It sounds like you need a thermometer.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

You are describing two different batches?
Can you describe your process for only the batch for which you need help?

It sounds like you need a thermometer.

It's just one batch. I just elaborated everything so that there's no confusion. I wanted to know what to do now. Should I try getting the fermentation going again, or should I bottle now? Despite the high gravity?

 

[RPh_Guy]

Your best bet is to give it 2-3 weeks in the fermenter. If your OG was actually 1.080 your FG might be around 1.032 but that's still a little under-attenuated.
If it's still stable after a couple weeks I'd say it's safe to bottle.

Don't worry about infection quite yet.

Some pointers:
-Cool the wort before transferring it to your fermenter.
-Use a thermometer to make sure you pitch at the right temperature.
-Use a thermometer to temperature-correct your hydrometer reading.
-Patience, patience, patience ... Take the time to mix it well before taking a hydrometer reading.
-Allow it to cool to the correct temperature. You don't need to rush into rehydrating the yeast before the wort is ready.
-Daily gravity readings really aren't necessary. Protecting the beer from oxygen exposure is important too.

What yeast are you using?

 

[Rohan Goswami]

Your best bet is to give it 2-3 weeks in the fermenter. If your OG was actually 1.080 your FG might be around 1.032 but that's still a little under-attenuated.
If it's still stable after a couple weeks I'd say it's safe to bottle.

Don't worry about infection quite yet.

Some pointers:
-Cool the wort before transferring it to your fermenter.
-Use a thermometer to make sure you pitch at the right temperature.
-Use a thermometer to temperature-correct your hydrometer reading.
-Patience, patience, patience ... Take the time to mix it well before taking a hydrometer reading.
-Allow it to cool to the correct temperature. You don't need to rush into rehydrating the yeast before the wort is ready.
-Daily gravity readings really aren't necessary. Protecting the beer from oxygen exposure is important too.

What yeast are you using?

OG reading must have been a mistake, because upon further reading, 3kg of malt extract in 5gallons can't get the OG to 1.080. So most likely, the wort wasn't properly mixed when I took the reading. It should be around 1.059, which is what worries me. 1.080 to 1.032 is fine, but 1.059 to 1.032 means the ABV isn't that high and there is a fair bit of sugar without a proportional level of alcohol.

I don't mind waiting a couple more weeks at all, but the gravity has been stuck at 1.032 for a week now. If I can't restart the fermentation, I was thinking I would be better off bottling it. But the apprehension is about bottle bombs, what if the fermentation starts again and with the addition of priming sugar combinded with the unfermented sugar already in the beer lead to bottle bombs.

I read somewhere the crown caps are a better alternative as the caps pop off before the bottles get a chance to explode? What would be a good approach right now?

Also, used crossedmyloof s american pale ale yeast


Thanks a lot@RPh_guy, been waiting quite anxiously for responses.

 

[RM-MN]

OG reading must have been a mistake, because upon further reading, 3kg of malt extract in 5gallons can't get the OG to 1.080. So most likely, the wort wasn't properly mixed when I took the reading. It should be around 1.059, which is what worries me. 1.080 to 1.032 is fine, but 1.059 to 1.032 means the ABV isn't that high and there is a fair bit of sugar without a proportional level of alcohol.

I don't mind waiting a couple more weeks at all, but the gravity has been stuck at 1.032 for a week now. If I can't restart the fermentation, I was thinking I would be better off bottling it. But the apprehension is about bottle bombs, what if the fermentation starts again and with the addition of priming sugar combinded with the unfermented sugar already in the beer lead to bottle bombs.

I read somewhere the crown caps are a better alternative as the caps pop off before the bottles get a chance to explode? What would be a good approach right now?

Also, used crossedmyloof s american pale ale yeast


Thanks a lot@RPh_guy, been waiting quite anxiously for responses.

Crown caps properly crimped are certainly capable of holding pressure until the bottles burst. Don't bottle until you are quite certain the fermentation won't start up again.

Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer for your gravity reading? Refractometers do not read accurately when alcohol is present and the 1.032 reading seems like what you might get with a refractometer.

If you are using a hydrometer, check it in plain water. It should read 1.000 or extremely close to that. If it is off, replace it.

If the beer really is at 1.032, rouse the yeast by swirling the fermenter and then wait a week before taking the next sample.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

Crown caps properly crimped are certainly capable of holding pressure until the bottles burst. Don't bottle until you are quite certain the fermentation won't start up again.

Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer for your gravity reading? Refractometers do not read accurately when alcohol is present and the 1.032 reading seems like what you might get with a refractometer.

If you are using a hydrometer, check it in plain water. It should read 1.000 or extremely close to that. If it is off, replace it.

If the beer really is at 1.032, rouse the yeast by swirling the fermenter and then wait a week before taking the next sample.

I've been using a hydrometer that is calibrated, so that should not be the issue. So, after your input on swirling and leaving for a week, I think thats what I'll do!

Thanks

 

[eadavis80]

You could do what I did on a stout that also had a high FG, but mine had a higher FG and it was an all-grain that I mashed at a higher temp + mine had lactose, but anyway - like you, I feared bottling with too high a gravity and feared overcarbonated/bottle bombed beer. What I did was I made my priming sugar solution and added that to the beer that was still in the fermenter. I then took a gravity reading a week later to see if the gravity dropped below what it was prior to the addition of the priming sugar solution. If it was stable after a week, then there was no reason to believe priming sugar would restart fermentation in bottles if it didn't do it in the fermenter. So, that's what I did. My FG was 1.030 prior to and after the priming sugar solution so I bottled and am enjoying the beer.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

You could do what I did on a stout that also had a high FG, but mine had a higher FG and it was an all-grain that I mashed at a higher temp + mine had lactose, but anyway - like you, I feared bottling with too high a gravity and feared overcarbonated/bottle bombed beer. What I did was I made my priming sugar solution and added that to the beer that was still in the fermenter. I then took a gravity reading a week later to see if the gravity dropped below what it was prior to the addition of the priming sugar solution. If it was stable after a week, then there was no reason to believe priming sugar would restart fermentation in bottles if it didn't do it in the fermenter. So, that's what I did. My FG was 1.030 prior to and after the priming sugar solution so I bottled and am enjoying the beer.

So you added the priming sugar to the fermenter and not the bottling bucket? If the FG was the same, was there carbonation in the bottles? Or did you prime it again before bottling? So basically, the yeast was done fermenting?

 

[eadavis80]

Yeah, I gave "round 1" of priming sugar solution to the beer in the fermenter. I checked the gravity prior to do doing this. It had been at 1.030 for a few weeks. I added round 1. I waited a week. I checked the gravity again. It was still 1.030. So, I then made a "round 2" priming sugar solution and added that to the bottling bucket.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

Yeah, I gave "round 1" of priming sugar solution to the beer in the fermenter. I checked the gravity prior to do doing this. It had been at 1.030 for a few weeks. I added round 1. I waited a week. I checked the gravity again. It was still 1.030. So, I then made a "round 2" priming sugar solution and added that to the bottling bucket.

Perfect!! Thanks a ton!! And the bottles were well carbonated??

 

[eadavis80]

They are fine.

 

[Bubbles2]

I am a newer brewer, I too had many questions and trying to find the right answers on the Net can be challenging.

After reading your O.P I would only suggest you check out and read about:

1. Natural fermentation
https://learn.kegerator.com/how-to-carbonate-your-beer/

I am not going to field links for you and not know if you are even reading them.

2. Priming calculator

3. The life of yeast
http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

4. Hops different flavors, when they "release" their flavors/bittering, etc.

5. Instruments- Without the proper instruments, calibrated, you are NEVER going to refine your batches.
I've read some educated peoples posts (or so it seemed with their credentials) and they are playing with "building water" without a PH meter... Impossible and asking questions in regards to anything without a measuring point is futile.
For instance the temp of your Mash boil will change the flavor of the beer sweeter or not, due to a couple of degrees of heat over 170º....F
Your Hops are more bitter if pitched at the beginning of a boil, opposed to 20 minutes before flame out.
Simple sugars yeast can eat, compound or complex sugars do not get consumed and are NOT turned to Alcohol and allow your beer to be sweeter.
Ph can give your beer a citrus flavor where citrus juice is consumed by yeast.
Salt can be used at bottling as coffee and other flavors that will change the complexity of your brew. However unless you keep detailed notes, you are only "flying by the seat of your pants" and at the that point just buy "kits" you like.

Ie., Your first batch, might be great or you may end with some marinade and batter beer...

There are many opinions and 'things' that may work for someone just fine, but not be a good application for where you live. eg., Lager yeast over Ale yeast for your conditions.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

I am a newer brewer, I too had many questions and trying to find the right answers on the Net can be challenging.

After reading your O.P I would only suggest you check out and read about:

1. Natural fermentation
https://learn.kegerator.com/how-to-carbonate-your-beer/

I am not going to field links for you and not know if you are even reading them.

2. Priming calculator

3. The life of yeast
http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

4. Hops different flavors, when they "release" their flavors/bittering, etc.

5. Instruments- Without the proper instruments, calibrated, you are NEVER going to refine your batches.
I've read some educated peoples posts (or so it seemed with their credentials) and they are playing with "building water" without a PH meter... Impossible and asking questions in regards to anything without a measuring point is futile.
For instance the temp of your Mash boil will change the flavor of the beer sweeter or not, due to a couple of degrees of heat over 170º....F
Your Hops are more bitter if pitched at the beginning of a boil, opposed to 20 minutes before flame out.
Simple sugars yeast can eat, compound or complex sugars do not get consumed and are NOT turned to Alcohol and allow your beer to be sweeter.
Ph can give your beer a citrus flavor where citrus juice is consumed by yeast.
Salt can be used at bottling as coffee and other flavors that will change the complexity of your brew. However unless you keep detailed notes, you are only "flying by the seat of your pants" and at the that point just buy "kits" you like.

Ie., Your first batch, might be great or you may end with some marinade and batter beer...

There are many opinions and 'things' that may work for someone just fine, but not be a good application for where you live. eg., Lager yeast over Ale yeast for your conditions.

Thanks for the inputs, checked out all the links. The reason I was worried about bottling was not because of the priming sugar, but because I thought I had a stuck fermentation and if I bottled it, the process might start again end up causing a nasty scene.

I did come across the priming calculator, but it was only after I joined the forum. Helped me out a lot especially because I didn't have any corn sugar, so the necessary amount of table sugar required was very helpful.

I know a bit about the general life cycles of microbes from my microbiology courses, and maybe that's why I was stressing ot a bit too much. The general scheme is Lag, Log, Stationary, and then Death. I was worried my yeast had reached the fourth stage. However, on the article you put, there is no mention of the fourth stage. Maybe it doesn't matter? I'll have to do my research on that.

As per my knowledge right now, you basically have two additions to make things simpler. The boiling hops with high AA content for the bitterness, and the finishing hops for the flavor? I'll have to brew a few more batches to actually get an idea. My boiling hops this time were a little too bitter for the beer I was brewing. But I'll work on it.

About the instruments, since I just started, I going with the basics- a hydrometer and a thermometer. I am not concerning myself with a pH meter and other advanced instruments because I'm brewing from extract. This is to get a hang of things right now.

About the type of beer, the reason I'm going with ale is because, like you mentioned, the temperatures are too high for lagers. I'm brewing in India right now to get a hang of the whole brewing business. I will be on my way to the US for my masters, upstate New York actually, which is where I plan on really going all out. There are too many constraints here to give ideal brewing conditions. Hopefully, things work fine.

Thanks for the links, I will definitely read about more of the nuances of home brewing. I got my grounding from The Complete Joy of Home Brewing, which I read till the end of the intermediate brewing section which is an elaboration on extract brewing and other possibilities like flavoring etc.

Cheers!

 

[ncbrewer]

If you decide it's stable at 1.032 and bottle, be very careful when handling these bottles. Even if you feel pretty confident that fermentation is stopped, you can't be sure. Until you've opened enough of these bottles to know what to expect, use some protection, e.g. goggles, gloves, towel over the bottle while opening. If everything is fine, no harm done.

 

[Rohan Goswami]

Hi Guys!!

Just opened my first bottle, (maybe I was a little too enthusiastic?) tastes real good! Especially when you try a store bought lager after. Thanks for all the inputs! Brewed my second batch today, OG was at 1.084 this time. Maybe the issue isn't with the mixing and with the malt extract I bought? Anyway, I guess Papazian was right all along! "Relax... Don't worry... Have a homebrew", problem was, I didn't have a homebrew to fall back on the first time.

Beer profile, from what little I could make out was pretty decent considering the goof ups. A bit too bitter, but nothing very serious. A little hazy, and a little too dense, FG was at 1.032. I don't think it's ready to be consumed yet, just four days in the bottle, but I couldn't wait. Haha. Will wait for the reaming bottles to complete at least a full week.

Another observation I made was that fermentation goes on pretty fast here. The wort was fermented by the first week, after that it was just me worrying if the yeast went dormant too soon.

Thanks for all the help!