Setting up my Brew Cave. New guy doesn't have a clue!!!

[Vintage Iron]

So....I'm brand new at this.

Never brewed beer other than at a local "brewery" that charges you a lot of money to "brew your own beer" which basically consists of dumping stuff into the boil and coming back two weeks to bottle it. (eyeroll)

I've been reading lots of your great forum posts and watching quite a few YouTube videos over the past month. I'm pretty sure I understand the basics.

Wash and sanitize EVERYTHING.

Boil
Sanitize
Cool
Sanitize
Pitch
Sanitize, blah, blah, blah....

I managed to score a sweet deal on a couple of Corny Kegs, a regulator, and a C02 tank off CL this past weekend. Yes, that's right...I've never brewed a drop of beer in my life, and the first purchase is a couple of kegs and a tank. (My wife of 20+ years is more than willing to confirm that I am "certifiable")

Anyway, I already have a turkey burner with a 7gal aluminum pot that will work great for the boil. (My plan is to try a simple 5gal extract kit for the first brew.) We can upgrade to better boil equipment after a few batches if needed.

I could really use your help in getting the rest of my equipment configured correctly. With the thought of starting off with a minimal amount of gear, I was thinking of buying a 6.5gal fermenting bucket with an airlock and spigot, (basically a bottling bucket) then go right from the fermenting bucket, into the keg via gravity and a length of beverage tubing once the fermenting is complete The goal here is twofold; 1) I'm cheap, so less gear is better, and 2) taking this route seems to be the most straightforward with the least opportunity to screw something up in regards to sanitizing etc.

Questions:
1) What am I missing from this set up? Do I need anything else? (I know a way to measure specific gravity is nice, but I'm going to hold off on that for now as it seems more of a luxury with the prepackaged extract kits?)
2) Will this work? Can one drain the fermented wort (beer) from a bottling bucket without picking up the settled yeast through the spigot?

While I'm trying to keep costs down I also know that "first cost is cheapest cost" so if it would make more sense to get a better fermenter, I'm certainly game. (I'd love to buy a Speidel 30L if that will get the wort directly from fermenter to keg)

Please... Any thoughts you have to my approach are very much appreciated.

 

[Moriaty32]

You’re looking ok. Yes, you can rack to a keg from primary. You will get some sediment, but it’ll settle and the beer will clear progressively the longer it sits cold and as you pull a few pints off. I suggest filling a pint from the bottling bucket before you keg to get much of the sediment away from the spigot.

There are countless pieces of gear you COULD get, but you have the basics.

Good luck!

 

[mongoose33]

If I were starting over again, knowing what I know now, I'd buy this kit from MoreBeer:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/premium-homebrew-starter-kit.html

It includes an extract kit worth probably $30, so the equipment is $200. It includes things that other kits do not, including Star-San sanitizer, a spoon, hydrometer, 8.5 gallonkettle with ball valve(!), an immersion chiller, the excellent Fermonster fermenter....the only thing this kit lacks is bottles and a heating source.

You're going to keg, so bottling isn't important now but it may be later. This kit is the bomb. Nothing else I've seen comes close.

******************

I bought a book titled "Brew like a Pro." Worst brewing book I've ever bought. The author has a remarkably bizarre view on new home brewers: he believes that beer is meant to be served from a keg, and the first purchase any new home brewer should make is a kegging/draft system. I've always thought that to be bizarre, as who can know if they'll like brewing until they do it? Further, it seems most new brewers are short of cash, and investing hundreds and hundreds in a draft system w/o brewing....well, doesn't seem cheap to me.

You're the first person I can recall seeing who has done that! Bravo!

 

[Tallgrass]

After you fill your bucket tilt it back, away from the spigot, and leave it that way. After fermentation ends the sediment will settle away from the spigot.

 

[hottpeper13]

Because your new to this and kits with extract can have a tendency to underatinuate a hydrometer for checking FG is a must have. I agree if you follow the volume directions with a kit SG should fall within a couple of points of the stated OG. I routinely ferment in primary for 3 weeks then keg, if you can cold crash for a few days even better. If I plan on taking the keg anywhere I secondary,cold crash for a week then keg, almost no sediment in keg when cleaning.

 

[hottpeper13]

Hey Iron,you should plan a trip to Mequon and bring your bucket and we can split a batch. I don't know how to do a PM on here so it's up to you buddy. I have a 10 gal induction set up in the basement, so the weather is always conducive to brewing.

 

[glugglug]

You’re starting pretty much like I did. One thing that I was missing in the beginning and is relatively cheap is a good thermometer. The one that came with my turkey fryer was not too accurate. A digital one is about $15. Also get a stick on thermometer for your fermenter. That’ll be around $5.

 

[Vintage Iron]

Wow. So much info/support. Thanks! Lots of great stuff to take in. I really appreciate it, so keep the thoughts coming.

Tallgrass-
Thanks for the tip on tipping the fermenting bucket back. I was wondering if that would be an option. I'm guessing between that and 'Moraity32s' idea of drawing off a pint or two first, most of the spent yeast will be clear of the keg.

hotpeper13-
Thanks for the invite, but we are 4hrs 37 min apart. Probably won't be happening.. LOL!

Glugglug-
That's a good thought. I have one of these. Very accurate, extremely fast. The probe is about 6" long:
http://www.thermoworks.com/ThermoPop
Will this work for one or two time brews to get up and running? (At that point I'll decide what upgrades are needed.)

Finally...... Now I'm pumped! I met up with the CL seller today. Picked up two Cornys, a #7 C02 tank with regulator, and "Last Straw" to easily fill bottles or growlers.

The journey begins!!

 

[cmarshall1087]

If I were starting over again, knowing what I know now, I'd buy this kit from MoreBeer:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/premium-homebrew-starter-kit.html

It includes an extract kit worth probably $30, so the equipment is $200. It includes things that other kits do not, including Star-San sanitizer, a spoon, hydrometer, 8.5 gallonkettle with ball valve(!), an immersion chiller, the excellent Fermonster fermenter....the only thing this kit lacks is bottles and a heating source.

You're going to keg, so bottling isn't important now but it may be later. This kit is the bomb. Nothing else I've seen comes close.

******************

I bought a book titled "Brew like a Pro." Worst brewing book I've ever bought. The author has a remarkably bizarre view on new home brewers: he believes that beer is meant to be served from a keg, and the first purchase any new home brewer should make is a kegging/draft system. I've always thought that to be bizarre, as who can know if they'll like brewing until they do it? Further, it seems most new brewers are short of cash, and investing hundreds and hundreds in a draft system w/o brewing....well, doesn't seem cheap to me.

You're the first person I can recall seeing who has done that! Bravo!

I built a 3 tap keezer, and bought kegs before I ever even got a pot to brew in. I figured I prefer tapped beer anyways, so even if i didn't brew my own, commercial beer would be tasty.

I've now brewed 4 batches, made 2 ciders, and am making my own AG equipment.

Have fun and brew on!

 

[Aristoi]

I also went directly to kegging, never bottled in the past 10 years of homebrewing. Then again I already had a kegerator setup (buying commercial kegs) prior to getting into homebrewing. My wife thought I was crazy but now enjoys the benefits of my hobby as much as I do.

I think that recommendation from the book referenced above was good. I cant say I would have kept homebrewing with the chore of bottle saving, cleaning, capping process. Fermenter to keg is so easy. I even hate bottling from the tap to give away beer.

You will not be happy with the 7 gal pot and will want to upgrade to a 10gallon stainless pot and mesh bag for BIAB, but its a good start with what you have and that can become your HLT later. I am an old school batch sparger but BIAB is what seems to be most popular as easy entry to all grain.

I now have a conical fermenter for larger batches but still go back to my glass carboys for easy 5 gallon test batches. I feel better about cleanliness of glass, i still like to see what is going on, they have held up well over time, and relatively inexpensive. Glass carboys are best value in my opinion, and would consider that over a bucket. Spring for the 7 gallon carboy over 6.5 so you have that extra headspace to avoid blow off hoses. I have both and prefer the 7 for that reason.

Other than that you are on the right track with equipment. The big bottle of star san and container of oxyclean for cleaning. Plus all your miscellaneous, funnel, measuring cup, hydrometer, etc that might come in a kit.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

You've got a good start. A hydrometer is cheap and worth the investment IMO. I wouldn't buy a bucket, I'd do a Big Mouth Bubble with a spigot or equivalent. I assume you have a fridge or something to put the kegs in...then serve with a picnic tap or something?

You'll need sanitizer...pick some up with your first kit.

You have the basics. There are a few things you could do to brew better beer:

Ferm temp control - this can be as simple as a tub of water, a t-shirt around the fermentor wicking up water and a fan. I'm convinced this is the biggest bang for the buck home brew improvement step.

Yeast - make sure you re-hydrate dry yeast or, for liquid yeast, do an easy starter in a gallon jug.

 

[Vintage Iron]

More great ideas...Thanks! First off, I got the hydrometer, Starsan, and Oxiclean ordered tonight, so we're all set there.

Time for some pics if I can figure it out. Here was my initial CL haul last night.
Kegs, tank, regulator, and Last Straw:

Also, more progress today as we were within 1 mile of Northern Brewer so we made a stop for a couple of extract kits to start out with. They had a deal that if you buy two kits you get a FREE Big Mouth Bubbler. (Works for me!)

I'll be doing the Milk Stout as my very first beer. I opted for the 6.5gal "bubbler" with the bottling spigot on the bottom.

I've read some of the posts about the lids on these being somewhat questionable, but it will be a good starting point (free) to figure out how to outfit the brewery as things progress.

 

[Jesse D]

More great ideas...Thanks! First off, I got the hydrometer, Starsan, and Oxiclean ordered tonight, so we're all set there.

Time for some pics if I can figure it out. Here was my initial CL haul last night.
Kegs, tank, regulator, and Last Straw:
View attachment 552428

Also, more progress today as we were within 1 mile of Northern Brewer so we made a stop for a couple of extract kits to start out with. They had a deal that if you buy two kits you get a FREE Big Mouth Bubbler. (Works for me!)

View attachment 552430

I'll be doing the Milk Stout as my very first beer. I opted for the 6.5gal "bubbler" with the bottling spigot on the bottom.

View attachment 552432
I've read some of the posts about the lids on these being somewhat questionable, but it will be a good starting point (free) to figure out how to outfit the brewery as things progress.

I'm using it

with no issue at all, but I came up with my own fix.

 

[Jesse D]

So....I'm brand new at this.

Never brewed beer other than at a local "brewery" that charges you a lot of money to "brew your own beer" which basically consists of dumping stuff into the boil and coming back two weeks to bottle it. (eyeroll)

I've been reading lots of your great forum posts and watching quite a few YouTube videos over the past month. I'm pretty sure I understand the basics.

Wash and sanitize EVERYTHING.

Boil
Sanitize
Cool
Sanitize
Pitch
Sanitize, blah, blah, blah....

I managed to score a sweet deal on a couple of Corny Kegs, a regulator, and a C02 tank off CL this past weekend. Yes, that's right...I've never brewed a drop of beer in my life, and the first purchase is a couple of kegs and a tank. (My wife of 20+ years is more than willing to confirm that I am "certifiable")

Anyway, I already have a turkey burner with a 7gal aluminum pot that will work great for the boil. (My plan is to try a simple 5gal extract kit for the first brew.) We can upgrade to better boil equipment after a few batches if needed.

I could really use your help in getting the rest of my equipment configured correctly. With the thought of starting off with a minimal amount of gear, I was thinking of buying a 6.5gal fermenting bucket with an airlock and spigot, (basically a bottling bucket) then go right from the fermenting bucket, into the keg via gravity and a length of beverage tubing once the fermenting is complete The goal here is twofold; 1) I'm cheap, so less gear is better, and 2) taking this route seems to be the most straightforward with the least opportunity to screw something up in regards to sanitizing etc.

Questions:
1) What am I missing from this set up? Do I need anything else? (I know a way to measure specific gravity is nice, but I'm going to hold off on that for now as it seems more of a luxury with the prepackaged extract kits?)
2) Will this work? Can one drain the fermented wort (beer) from a bottling bucket without picking up the settled yeast through the spigot?

While I'm trying to keep costs down I also know that "first cost is cheapest cost" so if it would make more sense to get a better fermenter, I'm certainly game. (I'd love to buy a Speidel 30L if that will get the wort directly from fermenter to keg)

Please... Any thoughts you have to my approach are very much appreciated.

I am not close to the point of brewing all grain yet, I'm only 2 batches in, being able to test the gravity has helped me greatly. I had one batch test and do great, one that did not hardly ferment. When I contacted NB about it, I was able to discuss my readings with them, I have also created a form to help my process, if you are interested, I'd be happy to share the excel file.

 

[Jesse D]

I have a typo in the image, but it's fixed on the real sheet

 

[Vintage Iron]

Jesse-
Thanks for the posts. I like your documentation spreadsheet. I may copy that format if you don't mind. Quick question about it. I noticed it as FG (which I assume is Final Gravity) and then on the next line down next to Yeast Date, it has a spot for "Gravity". What would be the difference between those two numbers? Also, what is the "Sec Date" column for?

Thanks again!

 

[Vintage Iron]

Time for another "newbie" question...

I have all of the old tubing from the previous owner, but he had left some beer in the "beer out" hoses, so need to replace the vinyl tubing between the C02 and Corny kegs, as well as the "beer out" hoses on this kegging system.

Can I just use standard vinyl tubing from my local Home Depot? It looks like they list it as "FDA Approved". Northern Brewer wanted $1.77/ft, HD gets about $3.50 for an entire 10' roll. I already have the fittings on all ends, so it would be much cheaper to buy just the hose locally. Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[WBB]

Not sure I would use Home Depot vinyl tubing. One of those things that makes you think every time you pour. Just go with the food safe tubing.

Actually maybe you could for the gas line, but I wouldn’t for the liquid line.

 

[Vintage Iron]

OK, thanks. I'll buy the stuff from the local brew shop.

'Nuther question...

I pulled the two Corney kegs apart for a thorough cleaning. It's a good thing I did as there were traces of dried up beer everywhere. (Yuck!) Anyway, both of these kegs are the 'ball lock' version, but the inside of the poppet valves look different. The one on the right seals with an o-ring, and the one on the left seals with some sort of a thick grommet type seal.

Close up shot of O-ring style....

And here is the grommet style.

Does anybody know if new seals are available for this "grommet" style valve?

 

[Jesse D]

Jesse-
Thanks for the posts. I like your documentation spreadsheet. I may copy that format if you don't mind. Quick question about it. I noticed it as FG (which I assume is Final Gravity) and then on the next line down next to Yeast Date, it has a spot for "Gravity". What would be the difference between those two numbers? Also, what is the "Sec Date" column for?

Thanks again!

Hello, I'd be happy to email you my spreed sheet template. The "Date" is the date I spot check the gravity to make sure it's it's done and safe to bottle. If the gravity is the same for a few days, it should be safe to bottle (so I've read, I'm also new!) "Sec. Date" is the date I transferred from the primary to the secondary, a lot of people choose not to transfer.

 

[PADave]

OK, thanks. I'll buy the stuff from the local brew shop.

'Nuther question...

I pulled the two Corney kegs apart for a thorough cleaning. It's a good thing I did as there were traces of dried up beer everywhere. (Yuck!) Anyway, both of these kegs are the 'ball lock' version, but the inside of the poppet valves look different. The one on the right seals with an o-ring, and the one on the left seals with some sort of a thick grommet type seal.

View attachment 552661

Close up shot of O-ring style....

View attachment 552662

And here is the grommet style.

View attachment 552663

Does anybody know if new seals are available for this "grommet" style valve?

Different styles of poppets. You should be able to replace the o-ring on the one, but as far as I know you replace the whole poppet on the grommet type seal. I like to replace all the rubber on a used keg, and after doing that, not much more for a new one. Don't forget about the PRV.

Use beverage line, don't use cheap tube from HD.

 

[Mike H]

We're practically neighbors so I'm guessing you are familiar with Northern Brewer? I'm in basically the same boat as you, my first batch is still fermenting so I'm no expert. I bought the Brew, Share, Enjoy starter kit from NB, mostly because it comes with a kettle, but for $100 it also includes the first recipe kit in addition to buckets, big spoon, siphon, bottle capper and some other misc items. I've already spent a few hundred more in extra supplies recipes and Big Mouth Bubbler fermenters to use instead of the buckets.

So....I'm brand new at this.

Never brewed beer other than at a local "brewery" that charges you a lot of money to "brew your own beer" which basically consists of dumping stuff into the boil and coming back two weeks to bottle it. (eyeroll)

I've been reading lots of your great forum posts and watching quite a few YouTube videos over the past month. I'm pretty sure I understand the basics.

Wash and sanitize EVERYTHING.

Boil
Sanitize
Cool
Sanitize
Pitch
Sanitize, blah, blah, blah....

I managed to score a sweet deal on a couple of Corny Kegs, a regulator, and a C02 tank off CL this past weekend. Yes, that's right...I've never brewed a drop of beer in my life, and the first purchase is a couple of kegs and a tank. (My wife of 20+ years is more than willing to confirm that I am "certifiable")

Anyway, I already have a turkey burner with a 7gal aluminum pot that will work great for the boil. (My plan is to try a simple 5gal extract kit for the first brew.) We can upgrade to better boil equipment after a few batches if needed.

I could really use your help in getting the rest of my equipment configured correctly. With the thought of starting off with a minimal amount of gear, I was thinking of buying a 6.5gal fermenting bucket with an airlock and spigot, (basically a bottling bucket) then go right from the fermenting bucket, into the keg via gravity and a length of beverage tubing once the fermenting is complete The goal here is twofold; 1) I'm cheap, so less gear is better, and 2) taking this route seems to be the most straightforward with the least opportunity to screw something up in regards to sanitizing etc.

Questions:
1) What am I missing from this set up? Do I need anything else? (I know a way to measure specific gravity is nice, but I'm going to hold off on that for now as it seems more of a luxury with the prepackaged extract kits?)
2) Will this work? Can one drain the fermented wort (beer) from a bottling bucket without picking up the settled yeast through the spigot?

While I'm trying to keep costs down I also know that "first cost is cheapest cost" so if it would make more sense to get a better fermenter, I'm certainly game. (I'd love to buy a Speidel 30L if that will get the wort directly from fermenter to keg)

Please... Any thoughts you have to my approach are very much appreciated.

 

[Mike H]

I read on a Q&A that the Starsan needs to dry before putting the lid on. I had the issue today that the lid wouldn't seat. I took it straight out of the sanitizing solution and it wasn't having any of staying put. I used a paper towel to dry in between the ridges on the lid and it seemed much more secure after.

More great ideas...Thanks! First off, I got the hydrometer, Starsan, and Oxiclean ordered tonight, so we're all set there.

Time for some pics if I can figure it out. Here was my initial CL haul last night.
Kegs, tank, regulator, and Last Straw:
View attachment 552428

Also, more progress today as we were within 1 mile of Northern Brewer so we made a stop for a couple of extract kits to start out with. They had a deal that if you buy two kits you get a FREE Big Mouth Bubbler. (Works for me!)

View attachment 552430

I'll be doing the Milk Stout as my very first beer. I opted for the 6.5gal "bubbler" with the bottling spigot on the bottom.

View attachment 552432
I've read some of the posts about the lids on these being somewhat questionable, but it will be a good starting point (free) to figure out how to outfit the brewery as things progress.

 

[seatazzz]

I'm going to +1 on the hydrometer (absolutely essential) and down the line you'll also want to get a refractometer. Hydrometers only work right at the correct temperature (generally around 62-68) and require a good bit of wort to test. A refractometer only requires a few drops, however they are pretty much useless once fermentation has started. But, if you continue on with this hobby most of us call an obsession, you'll eventually move to all-grain (don't be scared, it's easy!!) and a refractometer will be your best friend. Another good (and not too spendy) piece of equipment is a good autosiphon. Make sure you get one long enough (mine is 24"). This will save you lots of time and mess.

 

[MaryB]

AL of my fermenting buckets have spigots on them for transferring to the keg via gravity(use a piece of tubing that reaches the bottom of the,keg for less splashing). I brew all grain and have never had the yeast/hop debris/grain debris that made the boil kettle ever be deep enough to reach the spigot.

 

[Vintage Iron]

Thanks for all of the comments...

Jesse-
Thanks for the offer of sharing, but I already copied the format into a Google Docs spreadsheet while drinking my morning, so now I'll have a place to record the data. Thanks for sharing your format.

Seatazzz-
Yes, I actually just received my hydrometer in the mail yesterday so we should be ready to rock!

PADave-
Thanks for the info on the poppets. I'll probably re-ring both kegs and just leave these poppets as is. They can always be replaced easily in the future.

I really appreciate everyone chiming in. Hopefully I'll have all of the pieces in place to begin brewing next weekend.

 

[Vintage Iron]

Question on the add-water I'll use in an extract kit...

The plan is to have our first brew this weekend. I spent the morning cleaning out the boil pot and getting things organized. I figured I would test my stove top burner by boiling (then chilling) some add-water. Not only will this allow me to get a sense of what it's like to boil 2.5 gal on the stove, but it will also sanitize said water, and allow me to then chill it to enable a quicker wort chill time.

Is there any concern that as this water cools (with the lid on it) it's going to be drawing air into the vessel and contaminating the water?

 

[Vintage Iron]

First Brew! Here are some pics. Let me know if you see anything that is a MAJOR fail. Here's the kit I started with.

Started the boil in the garage. Sorry about the crappy looking garage floor. The weather's been nasty here lately. I just used this burner to get the boil water up to temp, steep the grains, and get the extract back up to boiling temp. Once that happened, it came inside on the stove for the next hour.

Here's the Freebie big-mouth bubbler enjoying a bath in some Star-San.

Fast-forward to after the boil. We don't need no stinkin wort cooler!

Only took about 25 min to bring the pot down to 85 deg. Won't be that easy once summer comes!

I think the OG turned out well. Box says to expect 1.044. Looks like we're right around 1.048 if my stick is correct.

Got everything put to bed in the basement. Now the waiting begins.

(It's amazing that a clean basement can look like such a crap hole when you take a pic in the only disorganized corner. LOL!)

Thanks for all the help to get me up and running!

 

[SEndorf]

So.... The library behind your fermenter is all beer brewing books... right?

 

[Vintage Iron]

So.... The library behind your fermenter is all beer brewing books... right?

Sure.. LOL

 

[Vintage Iron]

We're making alcohol....

Looks like right around 5%. Just waiting a couple days to take another reading that's hopefully steady, then it goes to cold crash, then keg.