Over-pitching questions

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jack_a_roe

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What's a good OG that would need you to pitch extra yeast for a healthy ferment? 1.060+?

Also, how exactly does that work in terms of quantity? Anything over a certain OG just throw two packs in? Or 1.5? Can you honestly over-pitch to the point where it ruins the beer?

Curious because I had a brew that was 1.062 and I used one 1056 wyeast starter pack, which is apparently right on the edge. Figured I'd just give it some extra time to finish up.
 
According to Yeastcal for a 5.5 gallon batch at 1.062 you needed 237 billion cells. Those packs typically have only 100 billion so you are about half of what you really needed.
 
So say the FG doesn't get down to where it should be after ample time. Could I throw another pack in there to finish off the ferment? Sorry for probable stupid questions but being a noob and going by the kits instructions imthought it would be all good.
 
Do I need to add another yeast to my ferment after 14 days if Im to introduce maple syrup then??
 
The dormant yeast should wake up or any still in suspension should eat the sugars in the maple syrup. Just like when you add priming sugar before you bottle, the yeast wake up and ferment it to carbonate your bottles, rarely is extra yeast needed at bottling.

And jack, unless you under pitched/under oxygenated, your yeast will usually ferment all they can. If replication and some fermentation occurred in your brew, there's probably at least 10 times as much yeast in your bucket as a new pack of yeast, so a little rousing usually does the trick if fermentation halts. Usually it's other issues like mash temp etc.
 
Thank you, I am almost ready to do the second fermentation to add the maple syrup and are not sure if I have to syphin out like I would at bottling and leave the sediment on bottom. Or does all of it go in to second vessel to make sure the yeast gets reactivated. My bottle has been sitting almost two weeks now and there is no activity in it at this point but had a real good week or so of bubbles. Some of my friends say im crazy, they have never herd of fermenting a second time and Im going to ruin the beer and add bacteria. Am I crazy???!! Also wanted to ask about how long does it have to sit on shelf once bottled if I bottle the beer at 30 days. Thank you
 
You should have enough yeast in suspension to convert the sugars in that syrup so it is okay to leave the cake in the bottom of your primary. Secondary fermentation used to be scripture in the home brew world, now it is considered an out dated method. You do run a risk of contamination and you are also introducing oxygen back into the beer; you want to avoid both of those things. In my opinion you could just pour your syrup into your primary and get the same result while doing a lot less work.

As for your question about bottle conditioning there are a couple things to consider. Mostly you want to think about style and ABV. The "bigger" and stronger beers need to spend upwards of months to achieve proper aging. Young beers, like hefes, are better if consumed as soon as they are carbed up.

What sort of concoction are you making? I haven't seen any with a late addition of syrup like that.
 
6lb Gold malt
3lb Amber malt
8oz caramel/crystal
2oz special b
2oz roasted barley
60 min hallertau
5 min Fuggles
1 tsp Irish moss
2lb syrup
5 gallons maple sap
I got this off the internet and the instructions were basic and straight forward. Only problem I was having was the questions I been asking like the yeast and the fermenting second time. So now I have transferd the beer over to a bucket with bubblier and introduced the syrup I just boiled down today but let cool so as not to kill any yeast that might be in there. (fingers crossed) I have put a lot of work in to this one and hope all is well, so Im working on a grolsch to keep my mind off it for the time being. I'm sure in the next 24 hour I will know if the yeast is ok.
 
I used over a pint of saved slurry (Wyeast 1072 originally), split between two carboys, approx 42 litres of beer. After 16 hours, it is overwhelming the blowoff tube, the bottle, and the tray. Obviously less yeast could have been used. What will happen to the beer if there is too much yeast?
The brew is a Founders Rye clone with an OG of 1048.
 
I also have been having an issue with blow off with EVERY carboy I set up, and I have used a wide variety of brews in my adventures.. Is this normal??? Getting a little tired of washing my ceiling after every time I make a beer.:confused:
 
salmonbrook said:
I also have been having an issue with blow off with EVERY carboy I set up, and I have used a wide variety of brews in my adventures.. Is this normal??? Getting a little tired of washing my ceiling after every time I make a beer.:confused:

Do you strain out your hops before putting the wort in primary? I've found if I leave the hops in the krausen is more likely to reach the vent/blow off tube. Also, are you using a blow off tube?
 
Hey Salmonbrook! I just posted. Similar thing in the fermentation yeast category because I was worried about the take off of my yeast. How did yours turn out? My recipe is very similar to the be you posted and I'm wondering bout my second maple syrup addition. What was your OG n that beer? I used 5 gal of maple sap and I think it held onto a lot of stuff.
 
Salmonbrook: I don't understand the part about "hitting the ceiling" if you are using a blowoff tube. I think that too many brewers just use an airlock. I get foam in my small blowoff tubes and that translates to beer in my bottle and tray. I may go to a larger blowoff tube..... I think that more headspace in the carboy is key. When I fill my 6 gal carboys to 5 gallons, I have no problem. The bubbles seem to burst before they expand into the blowoff tube. I brew in a keg and am thinking of scaling batches up to about 12 gallons, then using 3, five gallon carboys to leave plenty of headspace.
Your comment about the hops makes it sound like you are not using a hop sack during your boil. That saves a lot of mess.
 
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