Almost done with RIMS controller - 3 quick clarifications

[Noidios]

Thank you to everyone that has helped me with this build. I am in the homestretch now. I have 3 quick things to clarify though:

1. Are the resistors on the e-Stop line supposed to be connected in series or parallel?

2. The diagram shows 2 wires going to the e-Stop, but Auberins SW6 has 4 connections. Am I using the "NC" side, or the "NO" side?

3. My RTD has 3 wires - the diagram (shown below) that I used for this build only shows 1 connection to terminal 5 of the PID. Where do the other 2 wires connect?

 

[stlbeer]

Thank you to everyone that has helped me with this build. I am in the homestretch now. I have 3 quick things to clarify though:

1. Are the resistors on the e-Stop line supposed to be connected in series or parallel?

I wired mine in series, but I don't think it matters. After there were soldered up I encased them in appropriately sized heat shrink tubing.

2. The diagram shows 2 wires going to the e-Stop, but Auberins SW6 has 4 connections. Am I using the "NC" side, or the "NO" side?

I used an Emergency Stop switch, which is NO. Use the NO side.

3. My RTD has 3 wires - the diagram (shown below) that I used for this build only shows 1 connection to terminal 5 of the PID. Where do the other 2 wires connect?

The wires for the RTD were removed for clarity in that drawing. There are 2 red and 1 white wire on an Auber RTD. According to your drawing, for an Auber 2352, terminals 3 & 4 are red (it doesn't matter which one), and 5 is for the white. Make sure you set the PID for RTD probe.

 

[reuliss]

Thank you to everyone that has helped me with this build. I am in the homestretch now. I have 3 quick things to clarify though:

1. Are the resistors on the e-Stop line supposed to be connected in series or parallel?

2. The diagram shows 2 wires going to the e-Stop, but Auberins SW6 has 4 connections. Am I using the "NC" side, or the "NO" side?

3. My RTD has 3 wires - the diagram (shown below) that I used for this build only shows 1 connection to terminal 5 of the PID. Where do the other 2 wires connect?

Can I ask a stupid question? In the top right of your diagram, there is an indicator light, the wiring for which seems to stem off off of the wiring from the contactor to the heating element. What does that wiring look like in practice? Is it simply two wires from the same spot on the contactor, one to the indicator light and the other to the element?

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

Thank you to everyone that has helped me with this build. I am in the homestretch now. I have 3 quick things to clarify though:

1. Are the resistors on the e-Stop line supposed to be connected in series or parallel?

2. The diagram shows 2 wires going to the e-Stop, but Auberins SW6 has 4 connections. Am I using the "NC" side, or the "NO" side?

3. My RTD has 3 wires - the diagram (shown below) that I used for this build only shows 1 connection to terminal 5 of the PID. Where do the other 2 wires connect?

I do believe this is the diagram I had PJ make for me for my RIMS build. Thanks for asking these questions! I don't have all the parts yet, so I haven't gotten as far as you, but I'm glad you did so I can reference this back later. Prost!

 

[Huff360]

I wired mine in series, but I don't think it matters. After there were soldered up I encased them in appropriately sized heat shrink tubing.

Either way will trip the GFCI, but putting them in parallel will drop the resistance to 500 Ohms rather than 2k intended in the design. Stick with series as designed.

Is it simply two wires from the same spot on the contactor, one to the indicator light and the other to the element?

That would be fine. This is a case where you WANT parallel, unlike above.

 

[Noidios]

I do believe this is the diagram I had PJ make for me for my RIMS build. Thanks for asking these questions! I don't have all the parts yet, so I haven't gotten as far as you, but I'm glad you did so I can reference this back later. Prost!

The contactor has at least 5 places to hook up a wire for each of those outputs. It was easier to just run a second dedicated wire for the indicator light than it would have been to splice into the wire feeding the element.

 

[reuliss]

Thank you to everyone that has helped me with this build. I am in the homestretch now. I have 3 quick things to clarify though:

1. Are the resistors on the e-Stop line supposed to be connected in series or parallel?

2. The diagram shows 2 wires going to the e-Stop, but Auberins SW6 has 4 connections. Am I using the "NC" side, or the "NO" side?

3. My RTD has 3 wires - the diagram (shown below) that I used for this build only shows 1 connection to terminal 5 of the PID. Where do the other 2 wires connect?

I apologize and please let me know if this makes me a thread hijacker, but can I ask another basic wiring question that comes to mind when I read the diagram? There are a couple of places where wires are connected and I'm not entirely sure how. For example, on your pump switch, there is a wire from "X2" on the switch leading to the receptacle for the pump. Along the way, another wire from "14" on the switch connects to the one originating from "X2." Does one simply use a wire tap to make that connection? Does anyone have a picture to show what that connection actually looks like?

Thanks in advance!

 

[stlbeer]

I apologize and please let me know if this makes me a thread hijacker, but can I ask another basic wiring question that comes to mind when I read the diagram? There are a couple of places where wires are connected and I'm not entirely sure how. For example, on your pump switch, there is a wire from "X2" on the switch leading to the receptacle for the pump. Along the way, another wire from "14" on the switch connects to the one originating from "X2." Does one simply use a wire tap to make that connection? Does anyone have a picture to show what that connection actually looks like?

Thanks in advance!

The X1 and X2 connections are for the light. It needs to be powered. Hot comes in on 13. When the switch is closed, it is connected to 14. I simply used an additional bit of wire to bring the hot from 14 to X2. Then the neutral is hooked to X1 because the LED needs a neutral.

Since this is a double post switch there are 2 sets of posts (13, 14) and (23, 24). The pump switch also has one side of the SSR control circuit running through it (on terminals 23 & 24) so the RIMS element cannot fire unless the pump is running (assuming it's plugged in and the mash is not stuck...)

 

[Huff360]

Wiring diagrams often make connections in the middle of the wire like that just to keep the diagram cleaner. Just use a little jumper from X2 to 14.


Ideally you would not "jump" the high current wire. So you want the wire between 14 and the receptacle, then a little jumper from 14 to X2. You want to avoid a wire from 14 to X2 then a wire from X2 to the receptacle.

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[stlbeer]

So long as it's wired the way it's drawn you'll be fine. The previous post seems a little fuzzy.

 

[reuliss]

stlbeer and Huff360, thank you both. That clears it up, actually. One other example to make sure I understand. In the top right is an indicator light. Can I just put two wires off of the same spot on the contactor (i.e., one to the receptacle, and the other to the lite)?

 

[Huff360]

The previous post seems a little fuzzy.

I'd agree with that! What I was trying to say is:


It is better to limit the number of connections in the "load" wire, so it's best to make the jumper supply the lower current device. It's one less place for a loose joint to lead to heat buildup and failure.

Can I just put two wires off of the same spot on the contactor (i.e., one to the receptacle, and the other to the lite)?

Yes, two wires under each terminal on the contactor. You should size the wiring to the receptacle to handle the current for the heating element. The wires to the light don't have to be that large, they could be sized just to feed the light if you wanted.

I would avoid "T-taps" unless absolutely necessary.

 

[reuliss]

I'd agree with that! What I was trying to say is:
View attachment 126109

It is better to limit the number of connections in the "load" wire, so it's best to make the jumper supply the lower current device. It's one less place for a loose joint to lead to heat buildup and failure.




Yes, two wires under each terminal on the contactor. You should size the wiring to the receptacle to handle the current for the heating element. The wires to the light don't have to be that large, they could be sized just to feed the light if you wanted.

I would avoid "T-taps" unless absolutely necessary.

Thanks! You guys rock.

 

[Noidios]

In this pic, x2 is the bottom connection and 14 is the top

 

[reuliss]

While I have the attention of you kind people, what about connecting the resistors. Must they be soddered in line, or is there another way to do it for those without a soddering gun, etc?

 

[stlbeer]

While I have the attention of you kind people, what about connecting the resistors. Must they be soddered in line, or is there another way to do it for those without a soddering gun, etc?

For an emergency type circuit like this, I wouldn't connect them any other way than to solder them. Doing less than that could mean your circuit won't work at the time you need it to. In other words, this would not be a good place to take a short cut.