Best hop material and cold break removal method

[gometz]

I have been wondering what the best method is to remove as much material from the finished wort before transferring to the fermenter. My last batch had a very good amount of cold break and hop material (pellet hops), and I would really like to remove this from the next batch.

I can't seem to find any other discussion on this topic, so maybe someone can make a recommendation?

Thanks

 

[mttfrog13]

A lot of people strain through a mesh bag as they pour into the fermentor. I think some people will use paint strainers to get even smaller particles out but I've never used them.

I've never strained because I feel like there's no point of late/flameout hop additions if your just going to strain it out 15 minutes later after the wort has cooled from the immersion chiller. A lot of my beers do have a kind of grassiness to them though which I attribute to either dry hopping too long, or not straining the wort, so I will be straining them on my next batch.

Maybe someone else can chime in on the effectiveness of flameout additions that are strained out as they go into the primary.

 

[eastoak]

I have been wondering what the best method is to remove as much material from the finished wort before transferring to the fermenter. My last batch had a very good amount of cold break and hop material (pellet hops), and I would really like to remove this from the next batch.

I can't seem to find any other discussion on this topic, so maybe someone can make a recommendation?

Thanks

why do you want to remove the break material? the break material has no bad effect on your finished beer, it may even help your fermentation. i know there is a perception that clear wort in the fermentor means clear finished beer but this is not so. the hops can be put bags or, what i do, an all stainless steel hop spider.

I've never strained because I feel like there's no point of late/flameout hop additions if your just going to strain it out 15 minutes later after the wort has cooled from the immersion chiller. A lot of my beers do have a kind of grassiness to them though which I attribute to either dry hopping too long, or not straining the wort, so I will be straining them on my next batch.

flameout additions are very helpful in developing strong hop aroma and flavor, you do get some bitterness too. i've been adding 3 oz of hops to my APA at flameout. i would bet most craft breweries out there are doing hopstands of some sort of an hr or more. grassiness in the final beer has nothing to do with straining your wort but a long dry hop can lead to grassiness.

 

[gometz]

I was thinking in terms of efficiency, being able to fit more clear wort into the fermenter and then having to leave less behind when transferring.

 

[lpdjshaw]

Pickup tube close to the bottom and at the edge of your kettle and whirlpool.

 

[NedStackey]

^ This one

 

[blakelyc]

I just discovered this pickup tube thing. Proper positioning manages to clear more material than anything else I have come across. And, it is easy

I find that wheni don't remove excess material, I was getting a slightly vegetal flavor. Of course, that could be only in my head or due to other factors.

 

[BigFloyd]

1) hop bag(s)

2) Whirlfloc at 10 min

3) After removing the chiller, cover the kettle and let stuff settle 15 min or so before transferring to the fermenter.

4) If you use a bucket, these are pretty handy if you want to strain the wort -http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-x-5-Gallon-600-Micron-Bucket-EZ-strainer-Filter-Biodiesel-WVO-WMO-Pail-/350556068685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519ec51b4d

5) Cold crash 3-5 days if you can.

 

[gometz]

Cold crashing will be my best option, so I will try that this time (already have an IPA fermenting with lands to skip secondary).

Hop bags are another, just have to go get them.

Edit: already use whirlfloc, just didn't have a physical way to separate.

 

[BadDeacon]

I aerate by pouring between my kettle and bottling bucket. Then tie a mesh bag on my bucket and strain into the funnel in my fermenter. I think the mesh bag also helps in the aeration. I gets lot of small break material but it compacts nicely by day 2.

Also, I pitch the yeast into the fermenter before filling it. The extra splashing helps spread it out. At least I think so.

 

[eastoak]

it would be interesting to see how much wort the break material displaces, almost none i would guess.

 

[gometz]

I aerate by pouring between my kettle and bottling bucket. Then tie a mesh bag on my bucket and strain into the funnel in my fermenter. I think the mesh bag also helps in the aeration. I gets lot of small break material but it compacts nicely by day 2.

Also, I pitch the yeast into the fermenter before filling it. The extra splashing helps spread it out. At least I think so.

I pitch the yeast beforehand as well but use a sparger nozzle to transfer the wort into my carboys to help aerate it.