question wiring MYPIN TA4 RTD probe

[aboantopick]

I am wiring a MYPIN TA4
The probes I am using are RTD1100 Auber 3 wire, red, white, red
My manual seems to read "use 7,8,9 and put the white in the middle on 8'
i FOUND THIS INFO ON THE WEB ON A BBQ SITE seems to show using, 7,8,9 and 10 with reds on 7 and 10 an white jumped on 8 and 9, if I read it right.
Anyone have experience with this? I know I still must change the input setting on the PID to accept an RTD-100 type probe.

 

[iijakii]

There seems to be a couple different versions of Mypins out there, judging by posts on these forums and how to wire them up. I do believe on mine I had red going to 7 and 10, and then 8 and 9 jumpered.

 

[orangehero]

I don't know about different versions, but fortunately the wiring diagram sticker should be right on the side.

Assuming the actual diagram is the same as the image you posted and based on Auber RTD wire colors:

WHITE WIRE to PIN #7
RED WIRES to PINS #8 and #9, doesn't matter the order
You don't need to use any jumpers.

 

[-CHRIS-]

The manual is wrong, the sticker on the side of your PID is correct. The polarity on the SSR is wrong too in the manual.

You get what you pay for ;-)

Chris

 

[aboantopick]

The manual is wrong, the sticker on the side of your PID is correct. The polarity on the SSR is wrong too in the manual.

You get what you pay for ;-)

Chris

Thanks, I will go with the sticker and wire 7,8, and 9. Ya I didnt pay much m thought I would give these a try first. I have read the arguments till I am sick of them. Will post a report here one day when, and if its up and running

 

[-CHRIS-]

I have read the arguments till I am sick of them.

I re-read my post and I think it came across as a dig on Mypin, that is not my intention. All these Chinese-made PIDs are suspect at best including the Auber.

I am using 3 x TD4s in my eHERMS and they seem to work fine. The HLT has "run away" once or twice, but I am not sure if that is a SSR, wiring or PID issue. Of course the MLT is just a temperature probe and finally the manual mode works perfectly in the boil kettle.

I had the same problem that you had a few weeks ago when trying to wire the PTD sensor and via a web search figured out that the manual was wrong and the sticker on the side of the PID was correct. Once again, watch your SSR wiring as well since the polarity is reversed in the manual but correct on the sticker.

Chris

 

[augiedoggy]

I re-read my post and I think it came across as a dig on Mypin, that is not my intention. All these Chinese-made PIDs are suspect at best including the Auber.

I am using 3 x TD4s in my eHERMS and they seem to work fine. The HLT has "run away" once or twice, but I am not sure if that is a SSR, wiring or PID issue. Of course the MLT is just a temperature probe and finally the manual mode works perfectly in the boil kettle.

I had the same problem that you had a few weeks ago when trying to wire the PTD sensor and via a web search figured out that the manual was wrong and the sticker on the side of the PID was correct. Once again, watch your SSR wiring as well since the polarity is reversed in the manual but correct on the sticker.

Chris

have you tried changing the "I" setting to 1? that completely solved any overshooting issues for my on my 4 mypins.

 

[TungstenBeer]

have you tried changing the "I" setting to 1? that completely solved any overshooting issues for my on my 4 mypins.

Seconded.

 

[-CHRIS-]

have you tried changing the "I" setting to 1? that completely solved any overshooting issues for my on my 4 mypins.

I was reading the thread on this a few days ago, I am sure going to give it a try.

Chris

 

[aboantopick]

yay!
Just wanted to thank everyone for the input. I ended up following the diagram I posted and it was the same as the sticker on the TA4.
Red 7
Whit 8 and 9
Red 10
an then set imp to RTd
all the tests to my control panel are 100%. It no goes on the bench while I work on the keg for the mash tun.