Now that I have a list and schematic, please double check me!

[GrantH]

I'm concerned about my switches, but it makes sense in my brain to have 1NC/1NO switches so I can run the PID even if the Heater is turned off. Also, am I correct in wanting the SSR Control Output rather than the Built-in Control PID? Just double checking myself here. Thanks guys!

 

[danb35]

The 2362 PID seems to be a little more popular than the 2352, and I think it's even a little bit cheaper.

 

[Blauhung]

I'm a bit confused how you are wiring the switches. In general i would think your goal is use one to control power to the system as kinda a safety switch, and the second perhaps to select between PID control or element on 100%. These types of switches are nice as the contact blocks are modular and stackable. For a 2 position switch, the first goal basically is all or nothing and can be accomplished with either 1 NO and 1NC contact side by side, or 2 NO contacts stacked on top of each other. If the second switch is just a selector switch between PID(auto) or manual element control, you will want 2 NO contacts or 1 of each stacked.

As for the control on the PID, it is in no way rated for the amperage you will be running through your element, so it's control signal is wired to the control side of the SSR which handles the output to the element. Also, as the SSR will be dissipating heat, make sure there is either a heat sink included or you buy one as well.

 

[GrantH]

I'm a bit confused how you are wiring the switches. In general i would think your goal is use one to control power to the system as kinda a safety switch, and the second perhaps to select between PID control or element on 100%. These types of switches are nice as the contact blocks are modular and stackable. For a 2 position switch, the first goal basically is all or nothing and can be accomplished with either 1 NO and 1NC contact side by side, or 2 NO contacts stacked on top of each other. If the second switch is just a selector switch between PID(auto) or manual element control, you will want 2 NO contacts or 1 of each stacked.

As for the control on the PID, it is in no way rated for the amperage you will be running through your element, so it's control signal is wired to the control side of the SSR which handles the output to the element. Also, as the SSR will be dissipating heat, make sure there is either a heat sink included or you buy one as well.

I guess the switching is just a matter of choice, I just want it as simplistic as possible. My thought was that I need both PID and Heater on at the same time, so I need something that will give full system power, and allow the heater to be selectable on or off. I want it that way for safety reasons, juuust in case I go dry with a stuck mash, I can kill the heater but not the whole system.


EDIT: I guess it would be good information if you guys knew this was for a RIMS tube.

 

[Blauhung]

in general, either will work just have to mount your contacts properly on the switch.

 

[P-J]

I have a list and schematic

And??? Where is the schematic???

Without a wiring plan everything is pure guess work.

P-J

 

[GrantH]

P-J, this is what I was given for a schematic on my system, with some other tips in this (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/can-i-get-some-wiring-help-please-409692/) thread. Wiring is still a mystery to me, but I seem to be running on basics for what I need. I guess I am still all ears as to what I need for wiring/electrics.

I'm running a simple rims tube setup, 4500w element on 120v, and 2 chugger pumps. I want my system to stay powered up with the PID still reading, but where I can turn on/off/kill the heater element by itself.