GFCI would not trip with test button

[cank]

I had a 30 amp Square D homeline GFCI 2-pole breaker in a homemade spa panel. When I went to use it the first time, I pushed the test button and the breaker tried to trip but stopped half way down and started to smoke. After that the test button did not work but the breaker did.
What did I do wrong?
Here is how I wired it.

 

[jeffmeh]

Do you have H-H-G coming into the panel, or H-H-N, or H-H-N-G? I cannot really tell from the picture.

 

[cank]

H-H-N-G coming in.

 

[jeffmeh]

Do you have the N running into the breaker, and then a N pigtail coming off the breaker that is connected back to the N input somehow? I believe that is how it should work.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/wiring-spa-breakout-box-anyone-got-pictures-360313/

 

[reynolds5520]

It sounds like you have a bad breaker. Clicking to the halfway position is normal when a breaker trips, but it shouldn't have started to smoke. I can't think of anything you could have done wrong to cause that. Unfortunately, there isn't anything you can do to repair a failed breaker.

 

[lukez]

had e same issue except I have a Midwest panel. I called GE and they sent a replacement breaker. I haven't tested it yet though. Hoping it was faulty.

 

[cank]

Yes, neutral in to breaker and the pigtail going to the bus bar connected to neutral from control panel.
Should the breaker continue to work if the GFCI is fried?

 

[jeffmeh]

Shouldn't the pig tail be connected to neutral bus bar that feeds the spa panel (breaker input), and the neutral coming out of the breaker go to the control panel (breaker output)? I really don't know whether that matters here, but that seems to be consistent with P-J's photo diagram.

 

[reynolds5520]

The neutral pigtail of the breaker should be connected to the neutral of the incoming power.

The neutral of the outgoing power (if any) connects to the neutral lug on the breaker.


The breaker may still work as a switch and maybe even as an over-current protection, without the GFCI function working. But there is no easy way to test that it is working for over current. It should really be replaced - you let the magic smoke out.

 

[cank]

So the neutral of the protected circuit goes to GFCI Breaker Neutral-In and the pigtail is connected to Main Power Neutral leading back to main panel?
Is this how the GFCI monitors the power fluctuations?
And I fried it because I was feeding the neutral monitor backwards?😲

 

[reynolds5520]

So the neutral of the protected circuit goes to GFCI Breaker Neutral-In and the pigtail is connected to Main Power Neutral leading back to main panel?

That is correct, except that it would more commonly be referred to as neutral out.

Is this how the GFCI monitors the power fluctuations?

Yes, this is part of how it can watch for faults to ground.

And I fried it because I was feeding the neutral monitor backwards?

I don't think that should have killed it, but I suppose it's possible. I've never taken one apart to see exactly what the circuit is in there.

Based on what you've said about having your neutral backwards, I'm now wondering whether you have the hot leads connected correctly.

The two lugs at the top of your picture are for the incoming power. The screw terminals on the breaker are for the load.

 

[cank]

Gosh dang it, I'm a friggan idiot. You are right. After typing that I was looking at my photo and trying to figure it out. Then it hit me, I have my line in and load switched! My incoming power was coming in at the bottom and the cord to my panel at the top right.
Thanks for the input. Glad I didn't kill myself.

 

[reynolds5520]

sounds like you're on track now

This shows how it can be difficult to troubleshoot through a forum. The picture looks almost right but you can't tell from the picture which cable is which.