Skeeter Pee
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General rule of thumb is saying no more than 3 days because of oxidation. Now, since I am not carbing it, wont oxygen already be present in the top of the bottles which would allow oxidation to happen immediately following bottling? This is my first batch of wine/beer/cider/etc that won't be carbed so any insight on why oxidation doesn't occur in unopened bottles & how I can prevent it would be awesome.
Pic of my latest 10 gallons (in my new 20g fermenter!) and my brew buddy who does not understand what the noise is.
I picked these up from a guy who worked in a pharmaceutical plant. They work great for any number of things and since they are FDA pharm grade they meet (or exceed) food standards.
If this works out well I may have to go to making just one 20-gallon batch a year and calling it good.
I picked these up from a guy who worked in a pharmaceutical plant. They work great for any number of things and since they are FDA pharm grade they meet (or exceed) food standards.
If this works out well I may have to go to making just one 20-gallon batch a year and calling it good.
ulsh72
Well-Known Member
Hmmm... Big Blue pharmaceutical barrel made little blue pills = Skeeter Pee with an interesting...effect!
Pic of my latest 10 gallons (in my new 20g fermenter!) and my brew buddy who does not understand what the noise is.
I picked these up from a guy who worked in a pharmaceutical plant. They work great for any number of things and since they are FDA pharm grade they meet (or exceed) food standards.
If this works out well I may have to go to making just one 20-gallon batch a year and calling it good.
CreamyGoodness
Well-Known Member
I think the smart money is on Notty. Sprinkle a half packet in your wife's bathwater and you could very likely wind up with a fermented spouse.
Nice barrel, I want one too!
So i let my SP go to long and it dropped to .985 before i added last nutrient and lemon juice. Whipped it good, but it has been very slow to take off again, it has built pressure but not rocking. Also I want to bottle carb, have been told to back sweeten and use yeast again before bottling.....does this sound right?
So i let my SP go to long and it dropped to .985 before i added last nutrient and lemon juice. Whipped it good, but it has been very slow to take off again, it has built pressure but not rocking. Also I want to bottle carb, have been told to back sweeten and use yeast again before bottling.....does this sound right?
.985 does not sound right. .990 should be as low as any liquid can go. The lemon juice itself has very little sugar in it so I would not expect to see any more fermentation. Let the puppy degas and clear on it's own or use your finings and let it clear. I tried bottle carbing my last SP but if there was any carbonation it was so little it was un-noticeable. I just primed with sugar, back sweetened with un-fermentable sugar and bottled once clear. That did not work but I let this sit in secondarr many many months so there may have been too little yeast to do the job. Good luck with yours.
mike_in_ak
Well-Known Member
Specific gravity of ethanol is ~.78
So mixture of 90% pure water + 10% pure ethanol = .978?
Not accounting for all of the other solutes in a normal hooch.
So mixture of 90% pure water + 10% pure ethanol = .978?
Not accounting for all of the other solutes in a normal hooch.
Here's what it looks like after 1/3 break:Pic of my latest 10 gallons (in my new 20g fermenter!) and my brew buddy who does not understand what the noise is.
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[ame]http://youtu.be/jwesyCFo1pg[/ame]
There is literally a small breeze out of the holes in the airlock!
Just back sweetened by most recent batch. Used 6 cups of sugar and it is really sweet! I must not have had the full volume to begin with I don't think that if I add water it would cut it, what about water and some more lemon juice? Or should I just go as is and learn to taste and take gravity samples? I think I sweetened my first up to 1.015 and it was great. Didn't test this but it is definitely much higher!
I don't think that if I add water it would cut it, what about water and some more lemon juice? Or should I just go as is and learn to taste and take gravity samples? I think I sweetened my first up to 1.015 and it was great. Didn't test this but it is definitely much higher!looneybomber
Well-Known Member
Ehh, you could add more lemon juice to try and offset the sugar without having to add water? Or also add water, it's your skeeter pee.
And what is this post gravity reading you speak of? You don't just sweeten to taste and call it good?
And what is this post gravity reading you speak of? You don't just sweeten to taste and call it good?
Well, for the first batch I sweetened to taste and then took a gravity reading (it is in my notes somewhere) so that I could match it later. Unfortunately I sweetened this one without referring
so much for best laid plans.I do it with my ciders too so I can always get a similar taste or know what I need to do on the next one.
Well, for the first batch I sweetened to taste and then took a gravity reading (it is in my notes somewhere) so that I could match it later. Unfortunately I sweetened this one without referring
I do it with my ciders too so I can always get a similar taste or know what I need to do on the next one.
I may try a little bit of lemon juice in a sample and see how it affects it. And then try one with water and lemon juice and see which one works better. Won't be able to do it until next week though
GenIke
Well-Known Member
If I wanted to make a lighter version of skeeter pee, would I simply decrease the sugar going in or would I want to decrease the lemon juice as well?
I'd start by reducing the sugar - the lemon juice is just really the flavor part.
looneybomber
Well-Known Member
Or another approach, ferment as instructed and when it's time to back sweeten and bottle, add 2-3gal of water. Bam, now you have more beverage!
Iceman6409
Well-Known Member
Hello all. I would like to try a different fruit juice for the Skeeter Pee. If I choose say a cranberry juice does it need to be 100% juice, no additives pr preservatives or anything like that? Also how much juice would be needed? The same os the Skeeter Pee recipe?
FTG-05
Well-Known Member
I pretty much have concentrated on Apple Jacker's version of SP with his brown sugar and limeade Pee.
However, I've tried other fruits and/or juices including orange, blackberry, pineapple, apple and right now an pineapple/orange Pee.
I usually just wing it for my 6 gallon batches. For example, with the pineapple/orange I just pitched this morning, I used 7 pineapple/orange frozen juice cans, available at any large grocery store or Walmart (where I got mine). Previous versions of orange or apple Pee, I've used 6 cans of frozen juice (not sure why I bought 7, but I used them nonetheless). With pineapple, I used 3 half gallon juice cans (I haven't found pineapple frozen juice here).
Just experiment, it's easy and my Pee never lasts longer than a couple weeks around here anyway, just make some more....
Good luck!
However, I've tried other fruits and/or juices including orange, blackberry, pineapple, apple and right now an pineapple/orange Pee.
I usually just wing it for my 6 gallon batches. For example, with the pineapple/orange I just pitched this morning, I used 7 pineapple/orange frozen juice cans, available at any large grocery store or Walmart (where I got mine). Previous versions of orange or apple Pee, I've used 6 cans of frozen juice (not sure why I bought 7, but I used them nonetheless). With pineapple, I used 3 half gallon juice cans (I haven't found pineapple frozen juice here).
Just experiment, it's easy and my Pee never lasts longer than a couple weeks around here anyway, just make some more....
Good luck!
looneybomber
Well-Known Member
I tried using 20 or so cans of limeade for my lime skeeter pee. It didn't turn out as well. I think the key is making invert sugar. I didn't heat any of those cans of limeade.
Paschendale
Well-Known Member
I have a question, please. My recipe calls for yeast nutrient and energizer. What I have is 8 grams of fermaid K and 10 grams of Go-Ferm. What is equivalent to use for 6 tsp nutrient and 2 tsp energizer? And which do I use for each? I had no real luck finding just "nutrient" or "energizer".
1 tsp is about 5 grams when you do the conversion. "Yeast nutrient" is usually just DAP. It looks like white crystals or fine rock salt. Yeast energizer has a tan color to it and is much finer. So go look again and if names are all confusing just get the white crystals for nutrient and tan powder for energizer.
Paschendale
Well-Known Member
Well, great, I've bought the wrong stuff, then, and probably wasted a bag of sugar. And I don't have a brew supply store handy.
Thank you for your reply, Arpolis, I really appreciate it! You have given me my first real answer since I started asking questions a couple of days ago.
Thank you for your reply, Arpolis, I really appreciate it! You have given me my first real answer since I started asking questions a couple of days ago.
Paschendale
Well-Known Member
Ok, this may be a waste of the time and materials, but I am proceeding without the nutrient, will just use the go-ferm when I add the yeast and the fermaid later in the ferment. I do not know what else to do, since the sugar water solution is already cooked and cooling to go in the bucket. Guess I'll just chalk this up to a learning experience and know better for the next batch.
CliffMongoloid
Well-Known Member
Is this supposed to be fairly light in color?
Yes, it is almost clear with a slight yellow tinge too it. More like during the night of drinking pee as opposed to next morning hangover pee
Paschendale
Well-Known Member
Well, it is set up and ready for the hydrated yeast addition tomorrow. Hydrometer reading where it should be, so maybe it won't be too much of a failure. We'll see how it goes.
Pasch I ran out of my regular stuff and ended up using Fermaid-K. Dosage was 1g/gallon as indicated on packaging and it worked out fine. Fermaid can be thought of as both energizer and nutrient.
Degassed, added sparkolloid, k meta, and sorbate. 3 days later its pretty clear but air bubbles are lining the fermenter. It's clear enough to sweeten and bottle, but would I be better off degassing again and letting it sit another day or so before back sweetening?
The nutrient levels, using a yeast slurry and all are all just overkill because this is a nutrient lacking high acid wine must. If you are short on the nutrients then worst case scenario is that you get a slow start to the yeast and you get some rhino farts in the main fermentation. Just whip the must a lot during primary fermentation and let the O2 help you as much as it can. If you are really worried about nutrients then a good substitute is boiled bread yeast and one 100mg B6 vitamin crushed up or better yet a B complex pill crushed up.
Arpolis said:
Yeah I normally would be too, but I'm trying to bottle Friday cause that's usually my brewing day & I'd hate to wait another week
so if I got the sugar in tomorrow, Friday would be long enough to make sure fermentation stopped. As long as degassing this late won't oxidize it ill give it a whirl (ba dum cha!) That was my major concern
CooperBrew
Well-Known Member
On the subject of degassing, I've never done this before. How does one go about do it and for how long? I've seen videos of people using vacuum sealers and with the wand with "wings" on the drill attachment. I've also seen a video of a guy using a bent coat hanger on a drill. I don't have a vacuum sealer, nor a wand. I'm not adverse to purchasing a wand if I have to but are there any other methods?
Thanks
Thanks
I cut a coat hanger so I had the entire long end, plus a little extra where it curves up on one side. Heated up the curved side until I was able to bend it. Dunk it in cold water to get it to keep it's shape.
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(________ That's what I started with shape wise
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