BigDealBrewing
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Ok well I wanted to share my Kegerator Build. User Sidman's build located here:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524849
and User: mistercamerons fridgenstien build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=289241
was my inspiration for the build. He is a great dude and helped me along with the project. I also researched for about a month on what I wanted and didn't want in the build. As you can see Sidman's build had a huge influence on my build.
I knew I wanted to fit 4 kegs, I wanted a dedicated nitrogen tap and I really wanted two separate chambers in order to not be limited on what I can brew. Here is my response to a month of research and countless hours to trying to see what I envisioned was even possible.
Here is before:
And after:
Here is the parts list with what I paid for it:
Kenmore Coldspot 106.53632300 - $125 off craigslist(It had a broken ice maker)
20lb CO2 Tank and Dual Gauge Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
20lb Nitrogen Tank and Nitrogen Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
3 ITC-1000 - $16 each http://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6
4 Product Secondary Regulator - $170 http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/secondary/T1694ST_four_product_secondary_regulator.shtml
2-Way Manifold - $40 (for the nitrogen)http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/distributors/aluminum_two_way_air_distributor.shtml
Beer and Air Lines - $17 a sethttp://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/QDHOSEKIT_quick_disconnect_set.html
Air and Liquid Couplers - $16 a set http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/couplers/homebrew/ball_lock_mfl_coupler_set.shtml?bstr=1
3 1/8 Inch (3/16" Bore) Nipple Shank - $19 ea http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/faucets/shanks/SHANK3.shtml
Vent Matic Faucets - $53 ea http://www.vent-matic.com/#!shop/c1n3j
4 Inch 115v Cooling Fan - $17 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWRMZ6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Guiness Nitro Tap - FREE! Friend Hook Up
12" Drip Tray - $34 ebay find
2 GFCI Outlets - $7 ea Harbor Freight
RJ11 Wall Plate - $3 ea Home Depot
RJ11 Plugs - $4 pack of 20 Amazon
Fiberglass Re-enforced Plastic 4' x 8' Panel - $33 Home Depot
Oil Based Paint - $13 Home Depot
1/4" Foam Insulation - $9 Home Depot
Diamond Plate and 2" Angle Iron - $50 Local Metal Supply store
NOW for the HOW TO:
I started by planning the build as much as possible and listing all the parts I was gonna need. I ordered them and assembled what ever needed to be assembled before gutting the fridge and taking out all unnecessary parts.
I took the time to examine the entire fridge inside and out to get an understanding of how my particular fridge worked and where things were. By doing this I was able to trace where wires went and where it appeared the coils from the compressor ran. I was pretty confident to a HIGH degree that the compressor coils did NOT run in the walls. So whenever I drilled into the wall I wasn't really worried that I was gonna make a 150lb paper weight. I used my compressor to blow out then entire cooling system and coils underneath the fridge. I then ripped out all the water and ice systems since I wont be needing them.
Upon examination of the electrical area where the temperature sensor is and all the wires ran that this fridge had 1 Temperature Sensor for the fridge side and the freezer knob simply controlled an air damper that open and closed to make the freezer colder. (This threw me through a loop for a week. But ill explain that in the wiring section.)
Now that the fridge was stripped down to the bare minimum and doors removed.
I prepped the surface by sanding with 150 grit. This was to just remove the gloss coating of the original paint job. Once I did a quick sanding I wiped the fridge with soap and water. I let it dry and taped all the edges I didn't want to paint. First lesson learned(USE A FOAM ROLLER WITH OIL BASED PAINT) I used a roller that put lint on the surface and it really annoys me. I put 2 coats and it looked PERFECT(besides the lint). The first coat ISNT going to cover it perfect. Don't worry the second coat really did the trick.
{KEGERATOR SIDE}
I installed the Secondary regulator which fit exactly and 2-Way Manifold simply by drilling screws into the wall and then used a hole bit large enough to run both air lines from the outside in. I drilled from the inside out. (Second Lesson: Use a drill bit all the way from the inside out then use the hole bit from the outside in. This will create a cleaner hole. I had to use a dremel to clean the edges.)
I then used the kegs to measure where I wanted to 2 Inch aluminum angle iron to support the weight of 2 kegs on a shelf. I drill 3 holes in each and used 2 1/2" 1/4" Bolts with washers on both sides of the wall and lock washers to bolt each side. I reused the wire shelf from the freezer. This is pretty much all I had to do to the inside of the freezer.
{COOLING FANS FOR FERMENTATION SIDE}
For the cooling fans I used two 4" louvered dryer vents from home depot and two 4inch 95 CFM 115v Cooling Fans from Amazon. The reason I went with 115v is because I wanted to move air faster and it just fit better. (It is a little louder operating but it doesnt bother me.)
To install them I first assembled them. On the plastic dryer vent I cut the round plastic from behind the louvers. LESSON LEARNED(Remove louvers before cutting. It made it alot easier) NOTE: Whenever I cut plastic anywhere I used a high temp heat gun to soften the plastic for a few seconds and I heat up the blade. It made cutting plastic like butter and easier.
I then marked and drill four holes to mount the fan using the supplied screws with one guard on the opposite side of the vent.
I then marked and cut the holes through the fridge wall. I used the existing hole for the air damper and the vegetable crisper as places to cut because there were some holes already there.
I used black tape I had on hand to fill the space that I cut around the fan just for a cleaner look.
I will continue the thread below this post since I am limited on pictures.
and User: mistercamerons fridgenstien build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=289241
was my inspiration for the build. He is a great dude and helped me along with the project. I also researched for about a month on what I wanted and didn't want in the build. As you can see Sidman's build had a huge influence on my build.
I knew I wanted to fit 4 kegs, I wanted a dedicated nitrogen tap and I really wanted two separate chambers in order to not be limited on what I can brew. Here is my response to a month of research and countless hours to trying to see what I envisioned was even possible.
Here is before:
And after:
Here is the parts list with what I paid for it:
Kenmore Coldspot 106.53632300 - $125 off craigslist(It had a broken ice maker)
20lb CO2 Tank and Dual Gauge Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
20lb Nitrogen Tank and Nitrogen Regulator - $130 Craigslist Find
3 ITC-1000 - $16 each http://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6
4 Product Secondary Regulator - $170 http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/secondary/T1694ST_four_product_secondary_regulator.shtml
2-Way Manifold - $40 (for the nitrogen)http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/distributors/aluminum_two_way_air_distributor.shtml
Beer and Air Lines - $17 a sethttp://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/QDHOSEKIT_quick_disconnect_set.html
Air and Liquid Couplers - $16 a set http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/couplers/homebrew/ball_lock_mfl_coupler_set.shtml?bstr=1
3 1/8 Inch (3/16" Bore) Nipple Shank - $19 ea http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/faucets/shanks/SHANK3.shtml
Vent Matic Faucets - $53 ea http://www.vent-matic.com/#!shop/c1n3j
4 Inch 115v Cooling Fan - $17 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWRMZ6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Guiness Nitro Tap - FREE! Friend Hook Up
12" Drip Tray - $34 ebay find
2 GFCI Outlets - $7 ea Harbor Freight
RJ11 Wall Plate - $3 ea Home Depot
RJ11 Plugs - $4 pack of 20 Amazon
Fiberglass Re-enforced Plastic 4' x 8' Panel - $33 Home Depot
Oil Based Paint - $13 Home Depot
1/4" Foam Insulation - $9 Home Depot
Diamond Plate and 2" Angle Iron - $50 Local Metal Supply store
NOW for the HOW TO:
I started by planning the build as much as possible and listing all the parts I was gonna need. I ordered them and assembled what ever needed to be assembled before gutting the fridge and taking out all unnecessary parts.
I took the time to examine the entire fridge inside and out to get an understanding of how my particular fridge worked and where things were. By doing this I was able to trace where wires went and where it appeared the coils from the compressor ran. I was pretty confident to a HIGH degree that the compressor coils did NOT run in the walls. So whenever I drilled into the wall I wasn't really worried that I was gonna make a 150lb paper weight. I used my compressor to blow out then entire cooling system and coils underneath the fridge. I then ripped out all the water and ice systems since I wont be needing them.
Upon examination of the electrical area where the temperature sensor is and all the wires ran that this fridge had 1 Temperature Sensor for the fridge side and the freezer knob simply controlled an air damper that open and closed to make the freezer colder. (This threw me through a loop for a week. But ill explain that in the wiring section.)
Now that the fridge was stripped down to the bare minimum and doors removed.
I prepped the surface by sanding with 150 grit. This was to just remove the gloss coating of the original paint job. Once I did a quick sanding I wiped the fridge with soap and water. I let it dry and taped all the edges I didn't want to paint. First lesson learned(USE A FOAM ROLLER WITH OIL BASED PAINT) I used a roller that put lint on the surface and it really annoys me. I put 2 coats and it looked PERFECT(besides the lint). The first coat ISNT going to cover it perfect. Don't worry the second coat really did the trick.
{KEGERATOR SIDE}
I installed the Secondary regulator which fit exactly and 2-Way Manifold simply by drilling screws into the wall and then used a hole bit large enough to run both air lines from the outside in. I drilled from the inside out. (Second Lesson: Use a drill bit all the way from the inside out then use the hole bit from the outside in. This will create a cleaner hole. I had to use a dremel to clean the edges.)
I then used the kegs to measure where I wanted to 2 Inch aluminum angle iron to support the weight of 2 kegs on a shelf. I drill 3 holes in each and used 2 1/2" 1/4" Bolts with washers on both sides of the wall and lock washers to bolt each side. I reused the wire shelf from the freezer. This is pretty much all I had to do to the inside of the freezer.
{COOLING FANS FOR FERMENTATION SIDE}
For the cooling fans I used two 4" louvered dryer vents from home depot and two 4inch 95 CFM 115v Cooling Fans from Amazon. The reason I went with 115v is because I wanted to move air faster and it just fit better. (It is a little louder operating but it doesnt bother me.)
To install them I first assembled them. On the plastic dryer vent I cut the round plastic from behind the louvers. LESSON LEARNED(Remove louvers before cutting. It made it alot easier) NOTE: Whenever I cut plastic anywhere I used a high temp heat gun to soften the plastic for a few seconds and I heat up the blade. It made cutting plastic like butter and easier.
I then marked and drill four holes to mount the fan using the supplied screws with one guard on the opposite side of the vent.
I then marked and cut the holes through the fridge wall. I used the existing hole for the air damper and the vegetable crisper as places to cut because there were some holes already there.
I used black tape I had on hand to fill the space that I cut around the fan just for a cleaner look.
I will continue the thread below this post since I am limited on pictures.
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