Grain water ratio
- Thread starter jessej122
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It does depend somewhat on water pH and whether it's a light malt bill or with heavy roasted grains but most beers will turn out just fine in the 1.25-1.5 quart / pound of malt ratio.
I always use 1.33qt/lb on my beers, I get 85-89% efficiency every time on my 1.045-1.060 gravity brews.
I always use a single infusion mash and batch sparge and make excellent AG beers with this simple method.
I always use 1.33qt/lb on my beers, I get 85-89% efficiency every time on my 1.045-1.060 gravity brews.
I always use a single infusion mash and batch sparge and make excellent AG beers with this simple method.
shivalotus
Well-Known Member
Thickness of the mash will impact enzymes performance. That said, when you first start out I wouldn't worry too much.
Best thing to start with is a single infusion mash. Learn the fundamental steps first. There will be plenty of time later to make it complicated. (Which is half the fun to me.)
Are you planning on using a kit when you start?
Best thing to start with is a single infusion mash. Learn the fundamental steps first. There will be plenty of time later to make it complicated. (Which is half the fun to me.)
Are you planning on using a kit when you start?
shivalotus
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a solid plan. Hopefully you have soft water.
bigdongsr94
Well-Known Member
The main idea with ratio is for pH. Without knowing your water make up or building your water and testing mash pH, just stay around 1.5 qts/lbs.
1 qt/lb versus 2qt/lb isn't going to make a big difference in terms of pH... alkalinity, grain bill, and water hardness have a MUCH bigger impact on pH
brewmeister13
Well-Known Member
I think it was in one of Dave Miller's books that he suggests keeping the same mash PH and grain to water ratio across all recipes and then using temp of mash to manipulate the attenuation of the beers. Working with one variable is much easier to identify corrections than 3 was his rationale. I'm not experienced though so I bow to those with actually experience to speak from.
bigdongsr94
Well-Known Member
afr0byte said:
Like I said, without knowing your water stick to the suggested. 1-2 is not an issue just shoot for the 1.5qt/lb. I brew with full volume. What burned me early was taking advice like thickness didnt matter and getting into pH problems. With my water brewing centennial blonde at 2qt/lb I dumped my beer due to high pH and tannin extraction.
Well, if you're using mash thickness to help with pH control why not recommend even thicker? Why not 1.25, then? Also, what do you mean by "brew with fullv volume?" If you mean a full boil, then who doesn't? (when doing all gain) Also, it sounds like with your water you'd need acid, regardless of your mash thickness.
brewmeister13
Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken, it also has to do with the fermentability of the wort itself. Beta-amylase is more active the thicker the mash is. Beta-amylase is responsible for the creation of maltose and will make for a more fermentable wort.
When I ran a quick check in bru'nWater the difference in mash PH between mashing with 1.15qts/lb and 3.75qts/lb is .2 PH. As long as you aren't at the upper limit of mash PH the thickness won't kill you.
Do you know the water profile you are working with, Jesse?
