Moving CO2 Tank Outside of Refrigerator - Some Questions

[Woodbrews]

I plan to move my CO2 tank outside my refrigerator to make more room for additional kegs. I've researched my Hotpoint unit and concluded that I can safely drill through the side.

I have a dual regulator that is heavy enough to make my 5lb tank nearly tip over. To avoid that risk, I plan to route a high pressure line (like this one) through the refrigerator wall and mount the regulators inside the refrigerator.

First, does anyone see any pitfalls with this approach?

Second, can anyone recommend a good way to mount the heavy regulators to the inside of the refrigerator? The walls are thin plastic and I worry about fasteners pulling out. Moreover, I may need to adjust the regulators (Taprites), which requires a good bit of pressure on the knobs.

Third, can anyone recommend a secure way to tie down the external tank, for example like a fire extinguisher mount?

Thanks!

 

[satph]

A Gas Cylinder Safety Wall Bracket will keep your tank from tipping over, even with the regulator.

 

[microbusbrewery]

I have mine mounted on the wall outside my keezer (tank and regulator).

It seems like you might be trading off one set of problems for another. I think it will be a pain to try to adjust your regulator inside the fridge. I guess it would depend on how much slack you had but like you said you'll also have to figure out a way to mount it.

For mine I built a little shelf out of some scrap plywood. I attached some nylon strap to it with a quick release buckle. The whole thing is screwed into a stud with the nylon straps sandwiched between the shelf and the wall. Pretty simple and it holds the tank securely so that it doesn't tip over. I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.

 

[processhead]

Agree with the others.

I try to avoid running any high pressure piping when ever possible.
Having the regulator inside the box will be a PITA, too.

You should be able to come up with a bracket or strap to secure the tank/regulator on the outside.

 

[Woodbrews]

Thanks for all input. The only problem with keeping the regulator outside is the need to run two gas lines into the fridge (since I'm running 2 different pressures). I wanted to avoid making 2 holes in the fridge. Is there really a risk in running a high pressure line outside the fridge?

 

[acidrain]

I run three lines into my fridge... all through one bigger hole. It's nice to have your regs and manifold on the outside where you can get to it.

 

[opiate82]

If it were me I'd just drill the two holes. Or keep one line outside (for purging kegs/fermenters and such) then use a splitter and an inline reg inside the fridge to run your different pressures.

Your tank should be secured somehow from falling over regardless of what you end up doing with the reg. I know in restaurants in my area the fire department is fine with a chain with two eye bolts secured to the the wall.

 

[microbusbrewery]

I have mine mounted on the wall outside my keezer (tank and regulator). It seems like you might be trading off one set of problems for another. I think it will be a pain to try to adjust your regulator inside the fridge. I guess it would depend on how much slack you had but like you said you'll also have to figure out a way to mount it. For mine I built a little shelf out of some scrap plywood. I attached some nylon strap to it with a quick release buckle. The whole thing is screwed into a stud with the nylon straps sandwiched between the shelf and the wall. Pretty simple and it holds the tank securely so that it doesn't tip over. I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.

Here it is. I'd recommend doing something like this regardless of what you end up doing with the regulators.

 

[Woodbrews]

Thanks, folks. I like the idea of securing the tank and regulators outside the fridge. I'll just go ahead and run the air lines into the fridge. Currently, I use one line to carbonate water (40 psi) and the other for my keg. Eventually I'll put a manifold in the fridge when I expand to multiple kegs. One more question - are there in-line disconnects that I can add to the air lines, or should I run them through some kind of bulkhead?

Microbus - l like your blog!

 

[microbusbrewery]

One more question - are there in-line disconnects that I can add to the air lines, or should I run them through some kind of bulkhead? Microbus - l like your blog!

Thanks, glad you liked it. As for disconnects, I've heard of people using pneumatic fittings (like for use with air tools). I use the polysulfone ones from Northern Brewer. At $16 a set they're kind of on the pricey side but they work well. Air fittings would probably run about a buck or less a piece at a place like Harbor Freight. Here are the NB ones:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/cpc-female-gas-disconnect-1-4-barb.html

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/cpc-male-gas-disconnect-1-4-barb.html

 

[jcaudill]

I concur that I would not chose to run a high pressure line through the freezer. I wouldn't introduce the unnecessary risk of that line bursting and that is a LOT of pressure. I would keep all regulators outside and just run lines in like several others have mentioned. I currently run 4 lines in my freezer to maintain 4 separate pressures. Inside I split each into 2 because I have 8 kegs. I used PLC series disconnects from Colder which are a little cheaper than the aforementioned Polysulfone disconnects.

Or - you have one more option - to run a single low pressure line from your current regulator into an internally mounted secondary regulator(s). This way you don't have to worry about mounting your heavier regulator and you are running a single low pressure line in.

 

[Woodbrews]

I currently run 4 lines in my freezer to maintain 4 separate pressures. Inside I split each into 2 because I have 8 kegs. I used PLC series disconnects from Colder which are a little cheaper than the aforementioned Polysulfone disconnects

Did you make one large hole and run all four lines through it, or make 4 separate holes? How did you seal the holes? Did you put the disconnects outside or inside the fridge?

I do like the idea of a primary and secondary, but I've already got the dual primary, so I'll probably stick with that.

Thanks!

 

[jcaudill]

Did you make one large hole and run all four lines through it, or make 4 separate holes? How did you seal the holes? Did you put the disconnects outside or inside the fridge?

I do like the idea of a primary and secondary, but I've already got the dual primary, so I'll probably stick with that.

Thanks!

If you have a dual primary you can break it down, use one outside on the tank, and move the other inside then just add another secondary. The term "dual primary" is a bit of a misnomer - technically you have a primary with a secondary directly attached. I wouldn't do this for the amount of stress it would put on the tank fitting alone. One primary directly attached to the tank, then feed any number of secondaries for maintaining different pressures. The primary will always be set to the max pressure you want and secondary to the pressure you want to maintain on that feed.

To answer your question - 4 separate holes. Make this as tight as you can to the OD of the tubing, sticking the tubing through then use 100% silicone to fill the gap. Very straight forward! Of course for this to be effective you need a thick wall (I am going through 2 by and then I have insulation inside as well) - so if you're trying to accomplish this on a thin wall it could be a little more challenging.

 

[Woodbrews]

If you have a dual primary you can break it down, use one outside on the tank, and move the other inside then just add another secondary. The term "dual primary" is a bit of a misnomer - technically you have a primary with a secondary directly attached. I wouldn't do this for the amount of stress it would put on the tank fitting alone. One primary directly attached to the tank, then feed any number of secondaries for maintaining different pressures. The primary will always be set to the max pressure you want and secondary to the pressure you want to maintain on that feed.

Now you have me intrigued. If I detach my secondary from my primary, doesn't the regulator still run the full tank pressure into the secondary? Wouldn't I have to run a high pressure line between the two? Or is the second regulator limited in pressure to whatever setting is on the primary? Right now I have my primary running at 40 psi and my secondary running 12 psi. They are directly connected and both are hanging off the tank. I never thought of the stress being put on the tank fitting. Maybe I am misunderstanding how the "primary" and "secondary" hook together.

 

[jcaudill]

Before I answer this let me make sure I know exactly what you have now. Typically the "dual primary" setups have a 2 gauge primary regulator, one indicating tank pressure and one indicating the regulated pressure and then you have another regulator attached to this that let's you maintain a separate pressure - two outlets total as it stands right?

 

[Woodbrews]

Before I answer this let me make sure I know exactly what you have now. Typically the "dual primary" setups have a 2 gauge primary regulator, one indicating tank pressure and one indicating the regulated pressure and then you have another regulator attached to this that let's you maintain a separate pressure - two outlets total as it stands right?

Correct. I have three gauges (one high pressure and two low) and two outlets. Like this:

 

[jcaudill]

Ok - then the answer is absolutely yes. Here's what you would need to do:

1) Remove everything to the left of the regulator closest to the tank. This will leave you with one regulator, that has the left side open.

2) Remove the high side gauge (left most) from the regulator you just removed.

3) Install this high side gauge back onto the left side of the regulator at the tank. So now you have a regulator on the tank with a low and high side gauge and one outlet.

4) With the free regulator, install a 1/4" NPT to barbed adapter where you removed the high side gauge. This is where you run tubing between the tank regulator and this regulator.

5) On the right side of the free regulator, you attached a new secondary regulator. On the new secondary regulator, you use a 1/4" NPT plug on the right side.

So now at the tank, you set a pressure - let's say the max you ever want to maintain is 20 PSI. This is the max that will be available to your new regulator manifold inside the freezer no matter how much you turn it up. Now inside the freezer you can set each regulator 0-20PSI to maintain your pressures.

Make sense? It'll end up looking a lot like what you have on your tank, expect the left side is replaced by a barbed fitting and the right side is capped.

 

[ddotodd]

Here it is. I'd recommend doing something like this regardless of what you end up doing with the regulators.

View attachment 164093

Any advice on the best way to attach this to the side of the fridge itself? My basement is kind of in an "always changing" sort of situation, so until I can screw it to a wall securely, I like this idea - I just need it mobile...