Heating Element & Kettle FAIL!

[kaz4121]

So without giving it much thought last year, I bought two of these 11 gallon Bayou Classic Kettles:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXHKMC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

My plan was to install the following heating element in the two kettles to serve as my HLT and BK:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The issue is that the ID of the kettles are ONLY 13.5"! I'm struggling to find any other ultra low watt density elements that are less than 14" long (and still affordable).

I was thinking if I could find a 1" NPT coupler to essentially "extend" the threaded portion so I could "shorten" the heating element length in the kettle, I may be able to solve my problem. Do you guys have any other thoughts that could help me out?

Thanks

 

[jflongo]

Just curious, is it safe to heat it up a little in a vise, and bend it a hair more?

 

[MrNatural]

The issue is that the ID of the kettles are ONLY 13.5"! I'm struggling to find any other ultra low watt density elements that are less than 14" long (and still affordable).

I was thinking if I could find a 1" NPT coupler to essentially "extend" the threaded portion so I could "shorten" the heating element length in the kettle, I may be able to solve my problem. Do you guys have any other thoughts that could help me out?

Thanks

How about something like this?

https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

 

[kaz4121]

How about something like this?

https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

How exactly does this work?

 

[kaz4121]

Just curious, is it safe to heat it up a little in a vise, and bend it a hair more?

I haven't the slightest clue. It is Nickel Chromium Alloy, so I don't know if you could technically heat the element hot enough to make it pliable enough to change its shape.

 

[kaz4121]

I did find this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060HND9W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And it should fit since it claims that the minimum tank should be 13". This looks like a possible option (although I somehow need to find a 1 3/8" pipe cast fitting instead of the usual 1").

Still open to suggestions on altering the existing element in some way to make it work... or if people have successfully used those kettles with the 5500W Camco elements..

 

[MrNatural]

Solder or weld one of these to your pot.

https://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Ferrule-Medium-TC15FER14MMP.html

Screw element in this, and clamp it to the ferrule. Gain at least an inch.

 

[NivekD]

How bout this one? It's 10 1/2" long from the flange.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[signmastr]

I have the same pot. I used a SS coupling welded on the outside. I can use any size element I want.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=200

 

[kaz4121]

I'd rather not weld anything since I am going to an all weldless system.

@NivekD do you think the Low Watt Density vs Ultra Low Watt Density will make a difference with scorching. I was hoping to use a ULWD element to avoid accidental dry fire issues and scorching.

 

[NivekD]

I'm not sure, I'm just getting into this e-brewing thing so I'll let someone with more experience chime in.

 

[kaz4121]

I've seen mixed things on the forum regarding scorching, so I'm not sure myself.

I did find this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/camco-5500-watt-fold-back-length-375287/

It shows the 5500W 240V Ripple at 13-1/2" and the Foldback at 13-1/8". I may check out Home Depot or Lowes this weekend and see if they carry these two models so I can measure myself.

 

[kal]

The ripple element you bought is fairly bendable. I've seen people bend them into completely different shape and it still works. That said, I've heard of at least one person bending it and it no longer worked.

I would try squishing it down to make it squatter (more zig-zaggy - if that's a word) by bending it where it's already curved to make it shorter.

Kal

 

[kaz4121]

The ripple element you bought is fairly bendable. I've seen people bend them into completely different shape and it still works. That said, I've heard of at least one person bending it and it no longer worked.

I would try squishing it down to make it squatter (more zig-zaggy - if that's a word) by bending it where it's already curved to make it shorter.

Kal

Wow Kal thanks for the insight! I feel a little star struck since in my mind you've become somewhat of a celebrity around this forum..I know I've spent countless hours on your website and designed my system based off of many of the concepts you mention.

Anyway, I think that is a good potential idea, shortening the length by increasing the arc of the ripples.

Hopefully Home Depot carries both the ripple and foldback styles and I can see for certain if either of them will squeeze into the kettle without any other alterations. If not, it looks like I can try bending them some more.

I'll keep you posted. Also any additional thoughts would be helpful!

 

[kal]

Wow Kal thanks for the insight! I feel a little star struck since in my mind you've become somewhat of a celebrity around this forum..

Nonsense. I drink beer one sip at a time just like everyone else. (Ok, they're big sips....)

If you do end up bending it post some pictures/let us know how it goes. It's useful info for others.

I actually bent mine in my boil kettle slightly to make cleaning easier (I just spread out the bars so that I can get a sponge inbetween easier).

Before:

After:

Kal

 

[kaz4121]

Very cool. Did you just bend that by hand, or did you some tool to assist?

Also how and how frequently do you clean the elements? Don't know if I missed that portion on your website. My plan was use a scour pad for the gunk and PBW soak, thinking that would be enough. Also is your HLT and BK cleaning regimen the same, or do you not have to clean/de-scale the HLT since it's only water?

 

[kal]

By hand. It's very soft.

I clean the boil kettle after each brew as it's covered in gunk. I use a soft sponge.

The HLT never gets cleaned as it only ever has water in it. I do nothing.

Kal

 

[kaz4121]

Just wanted to update everyone.

I went with the Camco 5500W ripple (same as Kal's). The kettles were intact too small with the elements as is. I was able to make the "squatter" by hand, and saved a 1/8" or so. I was still short, however, so I opted to keep the original o-ring on the outside, as well as an o-ring and washer on the inside.

Does anyone see this being a problem (2 o-rings)? I will fill it with water next weekend and check for leaks, just wanted to see what others thought for the time being.

 

[jxm2119]

My plan was to install a 2" triclover Ferrule in the HLT and BK. This way I could get the elements in and out of the kegs and make cleaning easier over all. I went to install the element thru the adapter and never took the ripple into consideration. Has anyone else experienced this before or have a solution?

I'll post a picture when I get time.

https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-Female-NPT.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[stamandster]

Instead of a nut on the element I used a welding spud soldered to the outside. Mine isn't bent and doesn't touch at all. Just throwing out an option

 

[kaz4121]

Update as of 6/7:

The double o-ring technique worked, as the kettles are water tight. It is a bit of a pain since I hardly have enough thread to grab on to for the locknut, but a little persistence goes a long way.

For anyone doing electric in the future definitely get larger diameter pots!