No power to element.

[BWN]

I was trying get my PID setup for my HLT yesterday and I don't have any power to my element. I have 120 at each individual hot wire going to my outlet but when I measure across the two of them I have nothing. I have a little knowledge of electricity but this completely stumps me. It actually starts at the contactor. On the line side of the contactor I have 240 but on the other side I have nothing across the two wires. Each individual wire to ground has 120 though.

 

[BWN]

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a11a-SWA-2451-5500w.jpg

This is the wiring diagram I used.

 

[snail]

Sounds obvious but did you hit the pushbutton to energize the contactor's coil?

 

[BWN]

Yes I did, and I have power on the other side. 120 each wire to ground but nothing across the two of them.

 

[ChuckO]

Use your meter to check the voltage at the circuit breaker in your control panel. Check each leg to neutral for 120v, then check the two legs to each other for 240v. If that's correct then do the same checks at the element. I've seen a couple of circuits mistakenly built with both sides of a circuit coming from the same leg of the supply.

 

[raouliii]

...I have 120 at each individual hot wire going to my outlet but when I measure across the two of them I have nothing......

Therefore, they must be the same "Hot"/Line.

.... It actually starts at the contactor. On the line side of the contactor I have 240 but on the other side I have nothing across the two wires. Each individual wire to ground has 120 though.

The inputs to the contactor are likely mis-wired. You must make sure that Line1 and Line2 are fed to the line inputs of the contactor. You currently have one or the other connected to both line inputs.

 

[BWN]

I was wrong I don't have 240 at the input of the contactor. My circuit breakers are good though. I have 240 on both sides of those. My BK is good too all the way to the outlet.

 

[BWN]

Just did some more testing. When the switch is off I have 240 at the input side of the contactor. Once I turn it on I don't have power there anymore.

 

[raouliii]

Just did some more testing. When the switch is off I have 240 at the input side of the contactor. Once I turn it on I don't have power there anymore.

Which switch? HLT or PID power

 

[BWN]

Hlt

 

[BWN]

I turned my PID power on first and I still had 240 there it is only when I turn on the HLT.

 

[raouliii]

There is a mis-wire or failed component. Let's try to narrow it down.

From the schematic:

Line1 is directly connected to the contactor input from the circuit breaker. Does this always measure 120VAC, relative to neutral, at the contactor input?
Line2 is fed to, and switched by, the HLT SSR and then fed to the contactor input. Does this measure 120VAC, relative to neutral, at the contactor input? If it drops to 0VAC then the SSR is switching it off.

Please validate that the HLT switch is connected to the contactor coil and the SSR switched Line2 and Line1 are connected to the line in of the contactor.

 

[BWN]

I have 120 at line 1 directly connected to the contactor. I have 120 at the contactor where the line comes from the SSR. I have 120 at both of them when I turn the switch on. I have 240 across both before I turn the switch on. Once it is on there isn't 240 anymore. Line 1 is connected to the contactor and the other is connected from the SSR. I check for continuity with the power completely off. And everything is connected. One thing I notice is that the light is not coming on on the SSR. it does on my boil kettle though when I turn it on.

 

[raouliii]

During all these measurements, the HLT PID is calling for heat, correct? Is the HLT element plugged in during these checks? Try the measurements with the opposite condition.

I have 120 at line 1 directly connected to the contactor. I have 120 at the contactor where the line comes from the SSR. I have 120 at both of them when I turn the switch on. I have 240 across both before I turn the switch on. Once it is on there isn't 240 anymore......

When the element is plugged in and the contactor is ON and the SSR is OFF, Line 1 120VAC will be present on both contactor inputs and will result in a measurement of 0VAC between the two input connections. The SSR appears to be OFF. Why the HLT switch would be turning off the SSR is the question.

.... One thing I notice is that the light is not coming on on the SSR. it does on my boil kettle though when I turn it on.

Can you force the SSR on for troubleshooting?

Re-check your connections on the SSR.

 

[BWN]

As far as I know the HLT PID is calling for heat. I was just trying to set it up when I discovered this. I will check the settings against my BK PID just to make sure.

 

[BWN]

Both PID'S have the same settings. I don't know how to go about forcing the SSR on. Both contactors, SSR's and outlets are wired the same.

 

[raouliii]

As far as I know the HLT PID is calling for heat. ......

You can check this by measuring the DC voltage being applied to the control connections of the SSR.

... I don't know how to go about forcing the SSR on....

The SSR can be forced ON by disconnecting the PID and applying a control voltage from another source.

The diagram you referenced indicated a control voltage of 3-32VDC. Is it a good assumption that the SSRs you are using have this control voltage spec?

 

[BWN]

I will check that I ordered all the parts from Auber and they were the ones PJ had suggested.

 

[markantony]

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a11a-SWA-2451-5500w.jpg

This is the wiring diagram I used.

I visited this link and find nice stuff there. great diagram ..

 

[BWN]

Got it. It was a loose connection on the wires from the PID to the SSR. thanks for your help:rockin: I remember when I wired that I ran out of the small connectors and had to use the bigger ones. I just didn't crimp them tight enough. Thanks again.