Kegerator Shank & Line

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BGHSmt7

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
254
Reaction score
80
Location
Chicago Suburbs
Hey all, just looking for some information. I've tried searching the forums and google, but I can't seem to find the information that I'm looking for. I'm planning on upgrading my kegerator faucets and shanks to stainless steel. My current setup is as follows:

I currently have 6 shanks and faucets that are chrome plated brass
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDIH0DQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'm running 10ft of 5/16 ID hose per tap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E62TCC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'm pushing ~10 PSI @ 32*F

The first pour is foamy, but the second is almost perfect (I could push at a higher PSI and get a better pour). I found that I have a 10-12*F of temperature difference top to bottom--even with an 80mm fan blowing across the top of the keezer. I'll be dealing with this soon with a bilge fan and some PVC pipe.

I'm looking at replacing the shanks and faucets with stainless steel. I'm looking at 4-1/8" Stainless Steel Wine Shank 1/4" Bore SS316 with the 5/16 tailpiece assembly
https://www.homebrewing.org/4-18-Stainless-Steel-Wine-Shank-14-Bore-SS316_p_5824.html

I have replaced one of my faucets with an Intertap stainless steel faucet with the auto closing spring and I'm liking it so far. I'll prolly replace the rest with the same.
https://www.homebrewing.org/Intertap-Stainless-Steel-Forward-Sealing-Faucet_p_7049.html

So, I guess the question that I'm asking would be "What issues could arrise from having a 1/4" bore through the shank instead of the 3/16" bore?" I know that changing the diameter can cause foaming issues, but with my 5/16" hose I assume it shouldn't be that big of a problem.

Should I even bother with the 1/4" or should I get what my LHBS has. 3/16" Stainless with attached nipple? The overall price is similiar enough where it won't make a difference to me.

20180320_214033.jpg 20180320_214136.jpg 20180320_214054.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll change the lines out at a later date. I haven't noticed any plastic flavors, but if I start to, then I will look into that tubing closer. That stuff looks nice, but I can't afford to replace all my lines _and_ change out all the taps.
 
I'd put money on it that PADave meant 3/16" ID line, but in any case, I run 3/16" ID generic (read: Bevlex 200) PVC line through SS shanks with 1/4" bores - which I'm pretty sure is the standard with SS 7/8-14 shanks. For some reason it seems plated brass shanks sport 3/16" ID - but I don't think the bores are actually plated (which would be the easy explanation) so I don't know what's up with that.

Anyway, zero pour quality issues here. I run a single 120mm "stirring fan" sitting on the 13cf keezer hump blowing sideways through the two rows of kegs. There is no temperature differential top to bottom...

Cheers!
 
I'd put money on it that PADave meant 3/16" ID line, but in any case, I run 3/16" ID generic (read: Bevlex 200) PVC line through SS shanks with 1/4" bores - which I'm pretty sure is the standard with SS 7/8-14 shanks. For some reason it seems plated brass shanks sport 3/16" ID - but I don't think the bores are actually plated (which would be the easy explanation) so I don't know what's up with that.

Anyway, zero pour quality issues here. I run a single 120mm "stirring fan" sitting on the 13cf keezer hump blowing sideways through the two rows of kegs. There is no temperature differential top to bottom...

Cheers!

Yes, 3/16" was what I had intended to say.
 
Back
Top