PID Comparison

[SilverZero]

I'm looking into electric brewing. I'd like to put a 4500w or 5500w element in my 15 gallon kettle (I brew 8 gallon batches) and use it for heating strike and sparge water, as well as for the boil. I'm going to use a 220v line. I realize I need a PID with manual mode for the boil, especially with a 5500w element. I'm thinking I can use a 25A SSR.

I know a few people have talked about the MyPin PIDs you can find on eBay. Right now there are "package deals" with a TD4 or TD6 and a 25A SSR. They go for $37 or so shipped, from USA sellers (which I realize doesn't mean they're necessarily more reputable than a direct-from-China seller). I've found information about how to program the TD's for manual mode.

Is there a definite advantage to getting an Auber SYL-2352 for a bit more money? Have the MyPin models been working for anybody here?

 

[WAORGANY]

My Auber SYL-2352 works great I also have the Auber SWA-2451 w/timer and having issues getting it programed correctly but the 2451 is a great unit! I can not speak to the MyPin PIDs. good luck

 

[SilverZero]

Updated Question: If I can monitor my water temps, do I really need a PID anyway? I am thinking now a PWM for boil control would be sufficient, and when it comes to heating mash and sparge water I just need to put a thermometer in there and turn off the element when I hit my temps. If I end up adding a second HLT, a PID would be nice, but I do batch sparging anyway so I'm not too concerned. If I decide to add a mash tun element, then a PID might help, but even so I don't heat my mash now and it holds temperature just fine.

If anybody wants to see what I see when I'm thinking my thoughts:

MyPin PID/SSR combo

Auber PID

For $33 I can get the PID and SSR (I'm planning to use a CPU heatsink) vs. $61 + shipping for both from Auber. Just wondering if anybody has any real-world experience with the cheap-o option.

 

[alien]

Looking at the datasheet, I don't think there is any advantage to using the Auber SSR. It's certainly not a name brand under the Auber label. If you want to save $15 buy a Fotek SSR.

AGPtek/Mypin TD4/6's and their retailer LightObject have been around for quite a while, long enough to go bust if the things didn't work, and I have heard of quite a few people who use them with success.

Sestos is the other 'no-name' PID manufacturer that I have come across brewers using with good results.

I think a lot of these products are similar under the hood, but documentation quality varies quite widely.

 

[jCOSbrew]

I use the myPin TA4 PID (no manual mode).
Works fine for my purpose.

The MyPin and Auberins PID can come with relay output OR PID control output so make sure you order the correct model.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Using an analog thermometer to monitor temps and then killing the element manually would work fine, but you'll lose some heat from the system as you mash. The advantage of a PID is that it will keep that temperature for you without the need to keep a close eye on the temperatures. Nothing says you can't brew the way you would with a gas burner and just kill the power when you're happy with temperatures.