Wet milling efficiency decrease.

[reinstone]

Hi I have been wet milling for the past few batches and have seen a loss of efficiency compared to when i was dry milling. My Gap is set at .039 which Is what I used when I dry milled. Should I tighten the gap? Thanks.

 

[slarkin712]

Most definitely tighten the mill gap. That is one of the main advantages of wet milling. You can use a tighter gap to get a finer crush without completely shredding the husks. I use ~.027". Here's a link to kaiser's malt conditioning page:
http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Malt_Conditioning

He says he uses .022", so you can certainly crush finer than you are.

 

[Bobby_M]

Yes, your crush will be way too coarse if you don't. The grain becomes pliable after conditioning so it doesn't explode like it does when dry. Wimpy drill motors need not apply.

 

[reinstone]

Yes, your crush will be way too coarse if you don't. The grain becomes pliable after conditioning so it doesn't explode like it does when dry. Wimpy drill motors need not apply.

Using a low speed high torque drill, I'll find out. Thanks

 

[hopkins11]

I could have written this question myself based on a batch I did 2 weeks ago - even using the same gap.
Thanks for the replies!

 

[Bobby_M]

You'll be fine with a geared down drill for sure.

 

[Johnnyhitch1]

Im sorry but this sounds crazy, whats the advantage of wet milling.
How is it done?

 

[mobrewdude]

Im sorry but this sounds crazy, whats the advantage of wet milling.
How is it done?

The main advantage is higher efficiency. In a nutshell, a short time before milling the grain enough water is sprayed over the grain to wet the husk and make it more pliable. This allowes a finer milling without tearing the husk. Obviously you'll have to change your mill settings with less gap for a finer crush to take advantage of this.

My method is to spritz about 3 oz of water over grain for a 5 gallon batch with a small spray bottle, mixing the grain around while doing so. I then let it set about 10-15 minutes while I heat up my mash water. You'll have to experiment a little. After the grain has set it shouldn't really be visibly wet and the husk should have soaked up all the water. After it has done so, I mill the grain. Another self-check is looking at the rollers when you're done milling. If you have much more grain stuck in the rollers than normal or if the rollers are wet then reduce the amount of water or increase the time... you'll have to find a balance. Anyhow, just from my observations, I get better efficiencies with a finer crush but almost all of my grain hulls are completely intact for easy lautering. An added benefit is less grain dust at milling.

FWIW I'm using a Barley Crusher-ish mill with rollers, I'm not sure if the same would apply with the corona-type mills. Hopefully someone will chime in.

 

[Johnnyhitch1]

The main advantage is higher efficiency. In a nutshell, a short time before milling the grain enough water is sprayed over the grain to wet the husk and make it more pliable. This allowes a finer milling without tearing the husk. Obviously you'll have to change your mill settings with less gap for a finer crush to take advantage of this.

My method is to spritz about 3 oz of water over grain for a 5 gallon batch with a small spray bottle, mixing the grain around while doing so. I then let it set about 10-15 minutes while I heat up my mash water. You'll have to experiment a little. After the grain has set it shouldn't really be visibly wet and the husk should have soaked up all the water. After it has done so, I mill the grain. Another self-check is looking at the rollers when you're done milling. If you have much more grain stuck in the rollers than normal or if the rollers are wet then reduce the amount of water or increase the time... you'll have to find a balance. Anyhow, just from my observations, I get better efficiencies with a finer crush but almost all of my grain hulls are completely intact for easy lautering. An added benefit is less grain dust at milling.

FWIW I'm using a Barley Crusher-ish mill with rollers, I'm not sure if the same would apply with the corona-type mills. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Great right up, would of never known.
Interesting you mention the corona mill since its what im using. I double mill frequently to get a better crush and still only see low 70s on my efficiency. I guess i know what my new upgrade will be! Ive recently read that crushing the malt too almost powder with BIAB with increase efficiency dramatically?Is tannin and astringency from finely crushed husks another ole wifes tales and just for easier whole husk lautering?
Sorry for the derailment!

 

[paraordnance]

I use Corona style mill and BIAB. I didn't noticed any major efficiency changes after malt conditioning. But I mill fairly fine as is. I did noticed that my cordless drill runs out of steam sooner with wet grains and when milled by hand I can feel a lot more resistance. As Booby said, no wimpy drill motors need apply.
I still condition my malt when I have time and not in a hurry. The crush just looks so much better. I had never ever judges mentioned astringency in my beers so I don't think its an issue either way.

 

[brewinginnc]

I have heard some people say they have astringency from a corona mill grind but i havent yet.

 

[DirtyOldDuck]

Another option - I put my MLT manifold in a 5 gallon paint strainer bag and tie it tight around the fitting that I use to connect it inside the MLT to the ball valve. I mill pretty fine (without conditioning), barely have to lauter because none of the particles or husks can get into the manifold, and hit 85.6% efficiency with a 23 pound grain bill yesterday.