Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[finsfan]

I just started another brew last night. I did the American light (unfortunately) as it came with my mr beer kit. I did not fill up the LBK completely to the 8.5 qt line but left about a quarter inch under it to make a stronger tasting beer, hopefully haha has anyone tried this or had success with this batch? I also have an aztec cerveza in ferm almost week 2 and have already tasted it. I was very surprised how good it tasted already, still a bit sweet but had good flavor, color and could taste the alcohol:cross:

 

[bpgreen]

I just started another brew last night. I did the American light (unfortunately) as it came with my mr beer kit. I did not fill up the LBK completely to the 8.5 qt line but left about a quarter inch under it to make a stronger tasting beer, hopefully haha has anyone tried this or had success with this batch? I also have an aztec cerveza in ferm almost week 2 and have already tasted it. I was very surprised how good it tasted already, still a bit sweet but had good flavor, color and could taste the alcohol:cross:

I haven't done that, but there's no reason it wouldn't work. You would get a beer that is a little higher in ABV and body and a little more flavorful.

 

[Doob]

My first batch was the plain old American light. It was good. Not great. I then made a blueberry lager, a chocolate cherry stout, a lime Mexican cerveza, a NW ipa w extra hops, and I currently have a cherry wheat in a hopper. I'd say they all
were fantastic. I use both hme kits as well as some ingredients from my local small brewers shop(I enjoy helpin out local business). I also will be picking up some hop rhizomes this week and planning on growing some to take advantage of later this year! Y'all have made me a very happy new brewer, and the addition of colorful bottles we have gathered are all we need to tell our brews apart. By midsummer my fridge should be rainbow colored and full of homebrew.

 

[DFBeerGuy]

I just started another brew last night. I did the American light (unfortunately) as it came with my mr beer kit. I did not fill up the LBK completely to the 8.5 qt line but left about a quarter inch under it to make a stronger tasting beer, hopefully haha has anyone tried this or had success with this batch? I also have an aztec cerveza in ferm almost week 2 and have already tasted it. I was very surprised how good it tasted already, still a bit sweet but had good flavor, color and could taste the alcohol:cross:

Shorting the volume will give your beer a bit more kick and body. Not a bad idea. It will, however, only concentrate what's there. If you want something with significantly more body &/or bite, you'd be better off adding additional malt extract (LME or DME) and hops. In this case, the American Light kit is simply a building block and you're adding more flavor, body, bite, etc. with the malt & hop additions. As little as 1/2 lb. of DME and 1/2 oz. of hops could make a pronounced difference in what you end up with. And, you end up with the full 8 liters! Just a thought. . .

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
www.defalcos.com

 

[Kealia]

Y'all have made me a very happy new brewer, and the addition of colorful bottles we have gathered are all we need to tell our brews apart. By midsummer my fridge should be rainbow colored and full of homebrew.

Colorful bottles? Do tell....

 

[bzwyatt]

I bottled their Bewitched Amber Ale last night. It actually tasted really good, to me, straight from the keg. The other batches I've brewed (only the light lager and porter) were ok, but nothing special and not quite 'good'. The amber ale made me want to pour a pint right then. So maybe it'll be really good in 3 weeks.

I also am done with MrB kits forever, I think. I went to my HBS last night, got a recipe (halved from the 5-gallon amounts) for a belgian IPA. 2 types of hops, 4 specialty grains, some belgian ale yeast and some pale malt extract as a base. It was a lot of fun brewing and actually doing something besides just stirring in some extract. It smelled great too.

It is fermenting nicely this morning... the ale yeast has an easy range - 65 to 80 degrees. Instructions from the HBS said to pitch at 75, but mine was only 65. It has warmed up since last night and it appears to be doing great - it should ferment good, right?

 

[Doob]

Colorful bottles? Do tell....

Yes I have been buying the bormioli Rocco swing top one liter glass from both amazon and the maxx( in red, fuschia and orange), and have 12 oz long necks( in green brown clear and cobalt blue).

Red is usually choc cherry stout
Fuschia is for either cherry or raspberry wheat
Orange will be for pumpkin brews
Blue we use for blueberry lager
Greens for IPA's
Brown for regular old American ale or light
And clear for cervezas.

Once I get them all filled, conditioned and bottled ill take a pic of the fridge.

Here's a
Pic of the clear, red and fuschia swing tops.

http://i.imgur.com/NJLXerR.jpg

 

[Ostomo517]

Yes I have been buying the bormioli Rocco swing top one liter glass from both amazon and the maxx( in red, fuschia and orange), and have 12 oz long necks( in green brown clear and cobalt blue).

Red is usually choc cherry stout
Fuschia is for either cherry or raspberry wheat
Orange will be for pumpkin brews
Blue we use for blueberry lager
Greens for IPA's
Brown for regular old American ale or light
And clear for cervezas.

Once I get them all filled, conditioned and bottled ill take a pic of the fridge.

Here's a
Pic of the clear, red and fuschia swing tops.

http://i.imgur.com/NJLXerR.jpg

Nice!! I really like those!

 

[Doob]

Sure beats labeling or trying to remember what is what.

 

[finsfan]

who has tried the brew demon refill kits in their LBK? if so did you find it better than mr b and which kits did you use?

 

[azmark]

who has tried the brew demon refill kits in their LBK? if so did you find it better than mr b and which kits did you use?

I've just tried the Pale Ale. AFAIK these are just exactly what the old Mr. Beer kits were. (with liquid booster instead of power) I think most consider the new Mr. Beer kits to be of better quality than the old. So unless you really desire one of the old that is not available in a new equivalent, (pilothouse pills) you may as well stick to the Mr. Beer kits.

 

[bpgreen]

who has tried the brew demon refill kits in their LBK? if so did you find it better than mr b and which kits did you use?

The Brew Demon refills are basically the old (before Coopers bought them) refills from Mr Beer with different labels. So if you liked the Mr Beer old refills, you'll like the Brew Demon refills.

 

[Kealia]

Yes I have been buying the bormioli Rocco swing top one liter glass from both amazon and the maxx( in red, fuschia and orange), and have 12 oz long necks( in green brown clear and cobalt blue).

Red is usually choc cherry stout
Fuschia is for either cherry or raspberry wheat
Orange will be for pumpkin brews
Blue we use for blueberry lager
Greens for IPA's
Brown for regular old American ale or light
And clear for cervezas.

Once I get them all filled, conditioned and bottled ill take a pic of the fridge.

Here's a
Pic of the clear, red and fuschia swing tops.

http://i.imgur.com/NJLXerR.jpg

Interesting. I have a few of these that I love but have never seen 12oz cobalt blue:

 

[Doob]

Link to 12 oz blue.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GN2GQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[finsfan]

So i am currently in the first 2 brews i have ever attempted. The first one is the standard mexican cerveza from mr beer and has been in the LBK for 13 days. Last night i decided to do an experiment to test the results of a second fermentation. I filled one of my growlers up over half way and put a stopper and airlock on top. with the majority of the beer still in the LBK in 1st ferm and the couple beers in 2nd ferm, i may be able to taste and see the difference second fermentation offers. I will wait 8 more days until this batch has reached 3 weeks fermentation and bottle both 1st and 2nd the same day

 

[azmark]

So i am currently in the first 2 brews i have ever attempted. The first one is the standard mexican cerveza from mr beer and has been in the LBK for 13 days. Last night i decided to do an experiment to test the results of a second fermentation. I filled one of my growlers up over half way and put a stopper and airlock on top. with the majority of the beer still in the LBK in 1st ferm and the couple beers in 2nd ferm, i may be able to taste and see the difference second fermentation offers. I will wait 8 more days until this batch has reached 3 weeks fermentation and bottle both 1st and 2nd the same day

You should always bottle at the same time. You created a lot more head space in the LBK drawing in oxygen. You now are in danger of oxidizing your remaining beer.

 

[petey_c]

kealia, Here's a link to the cobalt blue flip top bottles
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060F9PV4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Kealia]

So i am currently in the first 2 brews i have ever attempted. The first one is the standard mexican cerveza from mr beer and has been in the LBK for 13 days. Last night i decided to do an experiment to test the results of a second fermentation. I filled one of my growlers up over half way and put a stopper and airlock on top. with the majority of the beer still in the LBK in 1st ferm and the couple beers in 2nd ferm, i may be able to taste and see the difference second fermentation offers. I will wait 8 more days until this batch has reached 3 weeks fermentation and bottle both 1st and 2nd the same day

You are not really doing a secondary fermentation, you are just using a second vessel. You won't taste a difference. The thought process behind a secondary is that after your primary fermentation is done, you rack the beer to get it off the trub and to age it a bit longer. The belief was that you get a clearer beer but most people at this point will agree that you'll get beer just as clear by leaving it in primary for an extended period of time.

azmark is on the mark. By drawing out half of your volume you've pulled oxygen into the LBK and can run the risk of oxidation. The vented slots on the LBK provide a passive airlock, meaning that O2 can still be pulled in, like this. You may be OK if your fermentation isn't done yet as it will create a new layer of CO2.

But, don't expect the two beers to taste any differently at all.

 

[azmark]

remember blue=clear as far as skunking goes.

 

[SulBruin3]

Need advice. I brewed the Spring Ale on wed and after addding the remaining water the wort was still a bit hot. I waited an hour and it was still warm but i pitched the yeast anyway. Put the keg in a 66 degree area and in the evening it was still hot and fermenting like crazy. I put into the fridge and forgot about it until next day. Now it is back in 68 degrees and temp gauge is in right area. Did i screw this up or should i give it the full 3 weeks plus to finish and it will be fine??

 

[azmark]

Will it be fine? Who knows, might as well wait and find out.

 

[bpgreen]

Need advice. I brewed the Spring Ale on wed and after addding the remaining water the wort was still a bit hot. I waited an hour and it was still warm but i pitched the yeast anyway. Put the keg in a 66 degree area and in the evening it was still hot and fermenting like crazy. I put into the fridge and forgot about it until next day. Now it is back in 68 degrees and temp gauge is in right area. Did i screw this up or should i give it the full 3 weeks plus to finish and it will be fine??

How warm was it when you pitched the yeast? How warm was it when it was "still hot and fermenting like crazy" and how long did it stay that temperature?

Since it was fermenting, it wasn't hot enough to kill the yeast when you pitched, so you'll get beer. But depending on how warm it was (and for how long) you may get more esters and possibly fusel alcohols. The esters can give a variety of different flavors (fruity, etc). They're not necessarily bad, but may not be what you're looking for. Fusel alcohols can give a hot solvent like taste and can also give you bad hangovers. If you get these, give teh beer longer to condition at room temperature and the yeast will conver the fusel alcohols to other compounds.

 

[DFBeerGuy]

How warm was it when you pitched the yeast? How warm was it when it was "still hot and fermenting like crazy" and how long did it stay that temperature?

Since it was fermenting, it wasn't hot enough to kill the yeast when you pitched, so you'll get beer. But depending on how warm it was (and for how long) you may get more esters and possibly fusel alcohols. The esters can give a variety of different flavors (fruity, etc). They're not necessarily bad, but may not be what you're looking for. Fusel alcohols can give a hot solvent like taste and can also give you bad hangovers. If you get these, give teh beer longer to condition at room temperature and the yeast will conver the fusel alcohols to other compounds.

Good advice. FWIW I would recommend that in the future, after heating the wort on your stovetop, that you place the kettle in the sink in a bath of cold water. Put a medium to long spoon in the kettle while it is still hot, so it will get sanitized, and stir the wort every couple of minutes to help speed the cool-down time. You'll want to circulate that water bath, too, for the same reason. Toss some ice into the bath (not the wort) to speed things even faster. Lastly, if you'll toss whatever topping off water into the fridge several hours to overnight before you brew, you won't have to get the wort all that cool before adding this cold water. You'll be able to easily get the temperature down to 60 - 65°F before adding the yeast. You'll get a slightly slower kick-off of fermentation, but it will result in much cleaner flavors. Hope this helps.

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
www.defalcos.com

 

[bpgreen]

Good advice. FWIW I would recommend that in the future, after heating the wort on your stovetop, that you place the kettle in the sink in a bath of cold water. Put a medium to long spoon in the kettle while it is still hot, so it will get sanitized, and stir the wort every couple of minutes to help speed the cool-down time. You'll want to circulate that water bath, too, for the same reason. Toss some ice into the bath (not the wort) to speed things even faster. Lastly, if you'll toss whatever topping off water into the fridge several hours to overnight before you brew, you won't have to get the wort all that cool before adding this cold water. You'll be able to easily get the temperature down to 60 - 65°F before adding the yeast. You'll get a slightly slower kick-off of fermentation, but it will result in much cleaner flavors. Hope this helps.

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
www.defalcos.com

+1

A slurry of water and ice cools something much faster than either water or ice alone. You can get it even cooler by adding salt to the ice water. Salt melts ice, but in the process, it drops the temperature.

 

[SulBruin3]

I believe that it fermented for about 4 hours and then i put the keg in the fridge. I do not know exactly how hot the wort temp was but the keg was warm to the touch and the temp gauge, from Mr Beer, stated it was over 76 degrees. Will be investing in more equipment and will let the wort sit longer before pitching next time. Thanks.

 

[azmark]

I believe that it fermented for about 4 hours and then i put the keg in the fridge. I do not know exactly how hot the wort temp was but the keg was warm to the touch and the temp gauge, from Mr Beer, stated it was over 76 degrees. Will be investing in more equipment and will let the wort sit longer before pitching next time. Thanks.

For most Mr. Beer boils, you don't need to cool down much. If you're doing the typical 4 cup boil. and You have your "bottom off" and "top off" water chilled down to fridge temp, you should be right in the low 70*s when you are ready to pitch.

 

[skidoo2003]

I am brewing my last mr beer refill later this week. I have started to experiment with dme and hop additions. My question is, should I stick with mr beer bases and continue to experiment or is there something I can get from LHBS for 2 gallon kits? My LHBS is northern brewer. They have one gallon kits, would that be worth experimenting with? I don't really have the room to go to 5 gallon batches yet unfortunately. Any advice is welcome.

 

[bpgreen]

I am brewing my last mr beer refill later this week. I have started to experiment with dme and hop additions. My question is, should I stick with mr beer bases and continue to experiment or is there something I can get from LHBS for 2 gallon kits? My LHBS is northern brewer. They have one gallon kits, would that be worth experimenting with? I don't really have the room to go to 5 gallon batches yet unfortunately. Any advice is welcome.

It's your choice. I brewed a number of beers that used Mr beer refills as a base (even in 5 gallon batches). You could always buy a 5 gallon kit and split it in half. You can overfill the LBK. I made a lot of 2.4 gallon batches. On my LBK, that meant filling to the bottom of the q, but it can vary. You can measure to 2.5 or make a batch a little stronger than intended. Depending on how the kit is packaged, this might not be easy (for example, if it has several steeping grains, but they're all mixed together).

Another option is to develop your own recipes. You can use software to help with this. Qbrew is free and you can get a database with Mr beer ingredients from screwy brewer's website. Beersmith costs money, but has a lot more options and is probably the best brewing software available.

If you go that route, you can buy a variety of ingredients and make your own creations. Some stores give discounts if you buy in bulk (my LHBS gives a discount on bulk LME and bulk base grains).

 

[DFBeerGuy]

It's your choice. I brewed a number of beers that used Mr beer refills as a base (even in 5 gallon batches). You could always buy a 5 gallon kit and split it in half. You can overfill the LBK. I made a lot of 2.4 gallon batches. On my LBK, that meant filling to the bottom of the q, but it can vary. You can measure to 2.5 or make a batch a little stronger than intended. Depending on how the kit is packaged, this might not be easy (for example, if it has several steeping grains, but they're all mixed together).

Another option is to develop your own recipes. You can use software to help with this. Qbrew is free and you can get a database with Mr beer ingredients from screwy brewer's website. Beersmith costs money, but has a lot more options and is probably the best brewing software available.

If you go that route, you can buy a variety of ingredients and make your own creations. Some stores give discounts if you buy in bulk (my LHBS gives a discount on bulk LME and bulk base grains).

The Mr. Beer kits are fine for using as a base, especially if you want add at least some additional malt &/or hops to fill them out a bit. Otherwise, they're a bit thin & watery. However, while you can always add more, you can't subtract what's already been added. Hopped extracts can make things easier & be more idiot-proof, but they limit creativity. If you can buy bulk LME or even just bagged DME, you have a good base from which to formulate virtually an infinite number of recipes. A little specialty malt grain, some hops, and the appropriate yeast - you're on your way. It may be a bit intimidating, but once you get a feel for it, it's actually quite simple. I have no doubt that Northern Brewer can sell you exactly what you need to brew whatever kind of beer in a LBK.

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX
www.defalcos.com

 

[bzwyatt]

I brewed MrB porter a few weeks back. I tasted it a couple times during the process, when it was fermenting, when I bottled, and a couple early bottles right when it carbonated. It always tasted pretty good. Last night I had another one that has been bottled two weeks, and it was fantastic, like really really good. I am really happy, my other brews were ok... (I am not patient and haven't let them sit all that long, some not even 3 weeks) ... and I wondered what is wrong... but this porter was great. If I can do that with a MrB kit, man when I get to partial boils and maybe all grain, it is going to be amazing.

 

[JohnSand]

I've been using MrB for all my brewing (3 months). I picked up a second kit, with two older 'Premium' recipes. Witty Monk and American Devil IPA. Each consists of two cans of hme, no booster. Amazon reviews can still be found, they got great ratings. I think I'll brew them straight up. I do have two brews in ferment right now, the Spring White and a very modified Aztec Cerveza. I may get a 5 gallon pail when the weather warms, but my beers are still inconsistent.

 

[stevehardt]

I've been using MrB for all my brewing (3 months). I picked up a second kit, with two older 'Premium' recipes. Witty Monk and American Devil IPA. Each consists of two cans of hme, no booster. Amazon reviews can still be found, they got great ratings. I think I'll brew them straight up. I do have two brews in ferment right now, the Spring White and a very modified Aztec Cerveza. I may get a 5 gallon pail when the weather warms, but my beers are still inconsistent.

The MRB premium kits were always quite good. I think you're wise to brew them straight up.

 

[cyb204]

I am a beginner brewer and have been having some fun with the Mr. Beer kit. Did an American Light back in the winter and it came out great. Just bottled the Alpine Spring and Diablo last week!

 

[sam_anderson]

My father had a Mr Beer Kit and I got mine from Drew Demon.

 

[Flogamocker]

What do you guys use to clean your fermenter after bottling? I've just been rinsing it real well with hot tap water, but I feel I need to use a detergent this time. I understand dish detergent is no good . . .

 

[bpgreen]

What do you guys use to clean your fermenter after bottling? I've just been rinsing it real well with hot tap water, but I feel I need to use a detergent this time. I understand dish detergent is no good . . .

I use Oxiclean free (unscented; the one with the green top). There are other brands of oxygen cleaners, also, such as Sun Oxygen Cleaner or LA Totally Awesome. You'll usually find these with or near the laundry detergent.

 

[JohnSand]

I use unscented uncolored liquid dish soap.

 

[skidoo2003]

I use Oxiclean free (unscented; the one with the green top). There are other brands of oxygen cleaners, also, such as Sun Oxygen Cleaner or LA Totally Awesome. You'll usually find these with or near the laundry detergent.

I use foaming hand soap, hot water, and a soft kitchen rag. Usually have to scrub to get the krausen residue off. Especially when it blows out the top.

 

[bpgreen]

I use foaming hand soap, hot water, and a soft kitchen rag. Usually have to scrub to get the krausen residue off. Especially when it blows out the top.

That's why I use an Oxiclean soak. I'm too lazy to scrub.

 

[TeamGotOil]

I am thinking of starting my next batch. Last(first) batch was several years ago and didn't turn out too well. I think, based on what I have read here, I didn't wait long enough. Anyway, my question is the instructions say to boil the water, then add the mix. Then put into fermenter with water already in fermentor. Everything I have read on here says the wort should then be boiled for up to an hour before being cooled and added. So, should I follow Mr. Beer instructions to boil the initial water, add mix, let wort cool, then add to fermentor? Or, should I boil water, add mix, then boil wort again, then add to fermentor?