IPA Question

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glepley

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I made a simple IPA that to me has a bread like taste to it. I made a pale ale that had kind of the same taste before and can’t figure it out. It’s not horrible but not my favorite . Hoping someone can tell me what I may have done to duplicate. Thanks

8lbs 2 row
1 LB crystal 20
1 LB wheat

1 oz Citra 60
1 oz Citra 15

Dry hop
1 oz Amarillo
1oz cascade

Wlp001
IMG_0150.JPG
 
You might need to expand on the "bread" flavor. A pasty/yeasty white bread flavor? A robust multi-grain bread flavor? Flavors of toast or bread crust?

The recipe seems decent. If it is a yeasty flavor it might just be young. What brand of 2-row did you use?
 
I know exactly what you're talking about. I've made both an IPA and an APA and have experienced this flavor. Both times, however, I've used WLP001 (which I believe is what caused it) and Great Western Pale 2-row. Like CascadesBrewer said, what brand of 2-row did you use? At some point, I'm going to try the same recipe with either wy1450, us-05, or the super San Diego yeast that I can't remember the number of right now.
 
Looking back I think your correct . It may be the yeast . I get the 2 row from a bin at the home brew store and never really asked. Recently I’m trying to be really detailed so I need to figure that piece out. I think I will
Make the same IPA and use a different yeast and see what comes of it. Thanks for the idea!
 
I also thought maybe the beer needs to age. I left in the primary for 1 week and dry hop for 4 days . Put in the keg and let it self carbonate for 5 days. Then stuck in the fridge and like always had to taste. Seems to be consistent flavor. Breast maybe biscuit flavor. My Pale Ale was the same and never changed with time. I assume then it must be the 2 row. I will have to pay more attention to that moving forward. Is there one that I should stay away from for IPA?
 
If you're looking for more hop flavor, your hop schedule looks a bit light to me. Bittering is fine at 60, but one late addition at 15, then dry hopping, isn't much. For most of my IPA's I do the bittering addition at 60, but then do 1oz or more additions at 15, 10, 5, and flameout, as well as dry hop. The small hop additions may be accounting for what you're tasting, which is basically what is called the malt "backbone". I think it needs more hops. My two cents.
 
ya what seatazz said.

all my IPA's are perle/mag bitter at 60m then

2.5oz cita
2.5oz simcoe
whirlpool

2.5oz citra
2.5oz simcoe
dry hop.
 
Agree with the hops. Little light . For what it's worth I use 2row , munich light and crystal 10 in my IPA . I've used flagship and wlp001 never been any issues .
 
Looking back I think your correct . It may be the yeast . I get the 2 row from a bin at the home brew store and never really asked. Recently I’m trying to be really detailed so I need to figure that piece out. I think I will
Make the same IPA and use a different yeast and see what comes of it. Thanks for the idea!

I’ll try to remember to post back here after I try a few other ones. Good luck!
 
One thing that stands out is that your beer looks rather dark for an all grain with just Pale, C20 and Wheat. Maybe it is just the lighting. Oxidation is a real issue with hoppy beers that shows as a darkening of color and presents (at least to me) as a slightly sweet paper/cardboard type flavor. I improved a few things in my process this year and the steps to limit cold side oxidation seemed to really have helped my Pale Ales and IPAs.

Your hopping rate does not seem too off to me if you are shooting for a mildly hopped pale ale. I usually shoot for ~30 IBUs at 60 min, 2-3 oz of flavor/aroma hops, and 2 oz of dry hop. I might suggest using a generic and inexpensive bittering hop like Columbus/Magnum/Warrior at 60 min, then moving your addition of Citra to 5 min or flameout. (Edit: Ohhh...forgot this was an IPA...I would shoot for more IBUs and hops in an American style IPA.)
 
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I like to use some white wheat malt in everything I brew. It gives a a saltine cracker flavor that I just love.

You might try it again and replace the pound of wheat with a pound of two row.

Your beer does look kind of dark for the grain bill.

All the Best,
D. White
 
If you're looking for more hop flavor, your hop schedule looks a bit light to me. Bittering is fine at 60, but one late addition at 15, then dry hopping, isn't much. For most of my IPA's I do the bittering addition at 60, but then do 1oz or more additions at 15, 10, 5, and flameout, as well as dry hop. The small hop additions may be accounting for what you're tasting, which is basically what is called the malt "backbone". I think it needs more hops. My two cents.

Thanks that makes sense. I will try that moving forward
 
I thought it was dark also. Do you all think this is oxidation? The top blew off the carboy during fermentation. I was there but had to let it go for awhile so it would not happen again.
IMG_0106.JPG
 
I thought it was dark also. Do you all think this is oxidation? The top blew off the carboy during fermentation. I was there but had to let it go for awhile so it would not happen again. View attachment 649027
Beers always look darker in the fermentation vessel, concentrated volume and all that. I've had lagers look like that in the carboy that came out light as straw. As long as you did your due diligence in avoiding allowing oxygen into it during fermentation, you should be good. And if your top blew off, know that it was co2 making it happen, which probably kept most of any oxygen from getting into it. RDWHAHB!!
 
That (ferm temp)! ^

Definitely find out the kind and maltster of "2-row" you're getting from your brewstore. 2-row is just the type of Barley used (vs. 6-row), they're not all the same, although differences may be subtle in most cases. There are many maltsters and barley varieties being used. Could it be Maris Otter, that's definitely bready, and could explain a somewhat darker color. Also cost more.

Look into preventing oxidation at all stages of brewing. Especially with hoppy beers, O2 exposure after fermentation, such as during dry hopping and transfers can kill hop sensation quickly.
 
To eliminate malt as a cause just substitute Pilsner malt as the base malt and see if that makes a difference. Maybe cut the crystal in half just to make sure. It’s so tempting to add crystal malt to ipa’s for that little extra flavor but I hate crystal malt in ipa’s.
 
My understanding is that oxygen is good as long as fermentation is taking place, the oxygen is being used by the yeast. It’s possible oxidation happened at a different stage, but I think that’s hard to do unless using a lot of post boil hops and/or being really careless.
 
maybe the default 2row is Viking or a pale ale malt which would add a bit more color. A pale malt would also add some bread crust biscuit flavor.

I agree with others that the hops and dry hops are a bit lightdry hop 2oz for blonde or golden ale, 4oz for a pale ale and 6 or 8oz for an IPA. More hops would put the malt more in the background.
 
With what little info I have... I say oxidation may have muted the hop flavors and increased sweetness... exaggerating the malty bread flavor... add the yeasty flavor of a young beer... and you have a glass of bread...

This is just a theory/assumption... but could be possible.

More dry hops... less oxygen pick up might get you closer to your desired flavor.

Water profile could be a key player as well in that bready profile you describe.
 
Is the wheat in there to get some haze into the beer? I'd personally get rid of the wheat (it is a likely culprit for bread flavor), cut the C20 to 4oz and add 8oz of a light german munich malt. With such a light hop load, the malt flavor should be more subtle than 1lb of caramel malt and 1lb of wheat malt would produce.
 
I made a simple IPA that to me has a bread like taste to it. I made a pale ale that had kind of the same taste before and can’t figure it out. It’s not horrible but not my favorite.

Make sure you cold crash at 50-55F for a couple days before transferring/bottling. This will drop out the yeast/proteins and you'll get a "cleaner" beer. Just a thought.
 
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