Continually fail at set-it-and-forget it - Advice Please

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EliW

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Apr 27, 2011
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Mount Airy
Hey everyone, I've been around here for a long time, and brewing beer (and mead & wine & cider) for, well, like 17-18 years now.

But only in the last couple, did I switch to doing kegs. Everything had been primed bottles before.

My first kegs were just primed as well, because it was simple. And it, in fact, was. But I disliked the fact that it was impossible to get 'clear beer' out of the keg when doing that. Because of all the sediment. I mean, I don't mind it for taste (and for porters/stouts -- meh, who will know), but for competition, and friends, there's something to having that perfectly crystal beer coming out.

So I wanted to start doing force-carbination.

And regardless of how many times I've read every post here about doing force carbing, the stickies, read the charts, tried different methods. Each time it fails.

Each time, I have to resort to doing burst carbing to make it work for me. Which works, but is so hard to get the carb level right. So, if you could give me some advice on what's going wrong.

Let me recount a few of my attempts:

1. Twice now, I've tried set-it-and-forget-it in my kegerator. My kegerator stays right at 40 degrees. Following the charts, I'll put the beer in the kegerator, hook it up to 10psi (one time, tried 12 another time) ... and wait 2-3 weeks. After that time, I'd test it, and it would be completely flat. So because I'd need the beer ready, I'd resort to burst carbing it, and that fixed it quickly.
The first time, I just set it to 10psi and left it alone. The second time at 12psi, I kept checking the pressure a couple times a week, and adjusted the regulator as needed. (FWIW, I noticed that I needed to do this, as over time the PSI might go up/down by one or two, probably as everything cooled down)

I did notice, to reference the last bit as well, that it just seemed problematic to keep the PSI set that low. The slightest twist on the regulator and it would jump either direction. *sigh*

2. Most recently, I attempted after talking with some other friends, about both the 'low PSI adjustment' issues, and just the pain of doing all this in the tight confines of the kegerator. To just do it at 'basement temp' and much higher PSI.
So I tried that. My basement stays at a constant 70 degrees, and the floor (concrete) is even a bit colder. I hooked up the CO2 to two kegs, and turned the regulator up to 30 PSI. One was a session IPA, one was a Black Rye Ale.
I left them hooked up for 3 weeks + 2 days. Yesterday, I went to tap one of them to test it before I would serve it this weekend. DEAD FLAT

*whimpers*

So, Here I went putting them into the kegerator last night, then this morning working on burst carbing them, so that they will be ready.

Burst carbing works every time. set-it-and-forget-it never does.

So any theories here? According to everyone I've talked to, I must be a liar, because nothing seems to work. *pout*
 
That's tough and I can feel your frustration! I've had some keg issues too. Nothing that some new poppet valves, o-rings and keg lube didn't fix though.

Sounds like an equipment issue rather than your understanding of things. If natural carbing in a keg works AND burst carbing works, then I wouldn't necessarily assume it's the kegs not keeping pressure.

Possibly something to do with the gas going into the keg could be the problem. Like the connection just isn't great perhaps.

That's hard to know. My first guess was that the kegs didn't have a great seal, but that kind of got thrown out of the window when you said natural carb works. If natural carb is working, then they have to be holding pressure.
 
KEG Lube works great!!! Oil them O-Rings up every time to make sure a good seal.

Also, your length of tubing for your beer out could be an issue as well. If your beer lines are too long, maybe the CO2 is coming out of suspension as it passes through to your taps.

How long are your lines?

For a quick reference, take a look at this calculator that I created to see how long your lines "REALLY" need to be. I found out my lines were WAY too long.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ai4EeF-CZo6SdEpmTlBMMmkyeGFwRXVDMXRjRlAzSHc&usp=sharing
 
Yeah, you got a real head-scratcher here. I completely agree with PistolsAtDawn; I'd suspect a problem on the delivery side of things, as opposed to the kegs themselves. I assume when you were priming the kegs before, that you were giving them a good shot of gas at 20-30 psi to seal the lid. Are you still doing that when you attempt to force carb?

Another question: when you have to resort to burst carbing, once your reach your desired CO2 volume and then dial back on the pressure, does the carb level hold steady until the keg kicks?
 
I'd say there's probably a slight leak at either the gas disconnect on the line or the gas post on the keg. I would disassemble those two items, clean everything or buy new rings, lube everything, and try it again.

I had a gas post on a keg that started doing the same thing, except I could just barely hear the leak and didn't have to find out by getting flat beer first.
 
I just want to ask is the co2 left on (open at all times) cause there should be no way your not getting carbonation. On the forget method the co@ must be on at all time that why I tend to do more burst carbonation( I have a small leak the pops up some times that I cant pin point yet).
 
Sounds like an equipment issue rather than your understanding of things. If natural carbing in a keg works AND burst carbing works, then I wouldn't necessarily assume it's the kegs not keeping pressure.

Possibly something to do with the gas going into the keg could be the problem. Like the connection just isn't great perhaps.

OK, that's a possibility. But, when I'm using the same connections to then burst carb? And that I've tried this again, and again, and again ...
 
Also, your length of tubing for your beer out could be an issue as well. If your beer lines are too long, maybe the CO2 is coming out of suspension as it passes through to your taps.

No, that's not it, because once I've burst carb'd, things work great, whether I'm using a picnic tap, my jocky box, my kegerator, or my beergun.

But when doing setandforget, beer is just dead flat.
 
Yeah, you got a real head-scratcher here. I completely agree with PistolsAtDawn; I'd suspect a problem on the delivery side of things, as opposed to the kegs themselves. I assume when you were priming the kegs before, that you were giving them a good shot of gas at 20-30 psi to seal the lid. Are you still doing that when you attempt to force carb?

Yup, I hit them with 30psi or so and seal it, then do the purge the air 5-6 times to make sure it's all CO2.

I then test everything by pouring water over all the connections, if I have any bubbles, I reset and try again.

Another question: when you have to resort to burst carbing, once your reach your desired CO2 volume and then dial back on the pressure, does the carb level hold steady until the keg kicks?

Yes, as far as I know. I have had at least one case where a keg lost pressure over time. But I found that one to be a faulty poppet which I replaced/fixed.

Everything seems to be fine, when I work with burst carbing.

Also, I own like 6 corny kegs, and while I haven't tracked each one specifically, it seems to be the same with all of them.
 
I had a gas post on a keg that started doing the same thing, except I could just barely hear the leak and didn't have to find out by getting flat beer first.

Cept I test all of them with water ... and this is over 6 different kegs.
 
I just want to ask is the co2 left on (open at all times) cause there should be no way your not getting carbonation. On the forget method the co@ must be on at all time that why I tend to do more burst carbonation( I have a small leak the pops up some times that I cant pin point yet).

Yup, in both the cold 10-12PSI, and the cellar 30PSI ... it's left on the whole time.
 
I will add, one unfortunate problem is that every time I'm brewing, it's for an event. So when my 3 weeks have passed and I'm not carb'd. I don't have another 3 weeks to just experiment and go: "OK, let's try a different regulator" or "Maybe it's just that one keg". And play with things. Isntead I have to resort to burst carbing and having it ready within 3-days to 1 week.

Some day here, I'll brew just to brew instead of for an event :)

A few other thoughts from processing all of this:

1. Every case here, I'm never doing '1 keg only'. I have 2 kegs (at least) hooked up to be carbing at the same time. And either carbs. So this implies (to me) that it should remove all "Something is wrong with the keg" issues. Unless it's all my kegs.

2. Given the thought that it's something wrong with the supply. I have 2 different regulators (3-4 actually ... I have one with a 2 way splitter, another with dual regulators, and then I've got a 3rd that's on a paintball adapter for transport). Again, I haven't had the chance to play with the idea of: "That one didn't work, let's try this one". But I'll swear that I've used all of them at differnet times.

I wonder if I should get one of those (though I can't find them now) regulators hooked up to a ball-lock valve. So that I can stick them on the kegs as a gauge and see what PSI the kegs are really sitting at?
 
The only practical thing I can recommend is to get yourself another gas disconnect and a pressure gauge and connect them together. Using your regulator gauge, set it to 12psi and charge the keg. Remove that connector and pop on your new pressure checking device. Does it say 12psi? I bet it says 7 or something. In other words, I suspect your gauge is reading high and therefore the pressure is being set too low. Does it read zero when the gas is off?

Another question.. what's the range on your low pressure regulator gauge? 0-60 or 0-100+? The larger range ones won't be particularly accurate at small adjustments.
 
The only practical thing I can recommend is to get yourself another gas disconnect and a pressure gauge and connect them together. Using your regulator gauge, set it to 12psi and charge the keg. Remove that connector and pop on your new pressure checking device. Does it say 12psi? I bet it says 7 or something. In other words, I suspect your gauge is reading high and therefore the pressure is being set too low. Does it read zero when the gas is off?

Another question.. what's the range on your low pressure regulator gauge? 0-60 or 0-100+? The larger range ones won't be particularly accurate at small adjustments.

This is what I was thinking. The regulator reading high seems like the most logical next step to check in this case. If everything else works fine, holds pressure, dispenses correctly, seems the regulator has to be the weak link in the chain here.
 
Perhaps 10-12 psi just isn't carbing it to your liking. Try bumping it up to 14-16. Leave it for a week and then start checking it everyday to make sure you don't over carb. If your CO2 tank isn't going empty over night and beer flows from the tap, then CO2 is being delivered to the keg and there are obviously no leaks. This means that carbonation should be taking place. It could be that you are bust carbing higher than what you are trying to achieve with set it forget it and it's throwing off your perception of the carbonation levels.
 
To be 100% sure that there is no leak on the keg side, I have pressurized my keg to 20 PSI and submerged it in the bathtub. You will know for sure that way.

Then the quick disconnects can be hooked up to the CO2 tank while it is on and submerged in a glass of water.
 
The only practical thing I can recommend is to get yourself another gas disconnect and a pressure gauge and connect them together. Using your regulator gauge, set it to 12psi and charge the keg. Remove that connector and pop on your new pressure checking device. Does it say 12psi? I bet it says 7 or something. In other words, I suspect your gauge is reading high and therefore the pressure is being set too low. Does it read zero when the gas is off?

They read zero when the gas is off. But only if I purge them. They stay reading the last reading they were at (the highest reading) unless I purge.

This applies to all my pressure gauges (all 4 of 'em) ... two of them have direct purge valves on them. Two don't and I have to either manually press the gas disconnect to purge, or if it's hooked up to the keg, purge via keg pressure release valve.

Another question.. what's the range on your low pressure regulator gauge? 0-60 or 0-100+? The larger range ones won't be particularly accurate at small adjustments.

All of them are 3 of them are 0-60 ... 1 is 0-30 ...
 
Perhaps 10-12 psi just isn't carbing it to your liking. Try bumping it up to 14-16. Leave it for a week and then start checking it everyday to make sure you don't over carb. If your CO2 tank isn't going empty over night and beer flows from the tap, then CO2 is being delivered to the keg and there are obviously no leaks. This means that carbonation should be taking place. It could be that you are bust carbing higher than what you are trying to achieve with set it forget it and it's throwing off your perception of the carbonation levels.

Naaa, Thanks for the idea, but I know it's not that one. When i've had failure, it's not that it's undercarbed. It's that there is ZERO carbonation. It comes out with a little head purely via agitation of serving, with HUGE bubbles, that dissappear within seconds.

And then the beer is dead flat. Looks like scotch at that point ;) Still tastes good tho.
 
To be 100% sure that there is no leak on the keg side, I have pressurized my keg to 20 PSI and submerged it in the bathtub. You will know for sure that way.

Then the quick disconnects can be hooked up to the CO2 tank while it is on and submerged in a glass of water.

Huh, never thought of doing a full submerge.

In any case ... I think one of the biggest tasks for me at this point ... is to actually go and brew some brews WITHOUT an 'event' in mind that I need to be ready for.

That way, I can try the 2 week test, and if it's not ready, start experimenting with other 2 week tests. Trying my different regulators, trying different pressures, trying cold vs warm. etc.

...

Also, since I know it carbs better cold than warm. Yet it's currently a pain to do the carbing in the cold ... since my kegerator holds 2 cornies, and a tank. But JUST BARELY, and the tank has to be stored behind the cornies which makes it a pain to keep checking the regulator and making sure that it doesn't need adjusted ...

I think I'm going to go ahead and pop the plug hole that's on the back, and run my co2 externally. Will be a lot less pain to do experimenting that way, with just a single hose coming in w/ a two way splitter, and a dedicated 5# tank and regulator feeding it.
 
Do your gas connections have integrated check valves? On the manifold I got with my system (clist) the check valves need a few psi to open even when installed in the correct orientation. Maybe yours need even more? Doesn't explain why the room temp carbing didn't work, though...

When nothing makes sense, back to basics. You are using CO2, not nitrogen right? And you are connecting to the gas in connection, not the beer out connection?
 
Assuming that it is a CO2 tank and not nitrogen and that beer can be dispensed with the CO2, then CO2 has to be getting into the keg. Being that I doubt the laws of physics stop working in your kegs, it is just undercarbed. That would point to the regulator gauge reading high. I would suggest bumping it up a few psi and see if that carbs it to your liking.
 
Like mentioned check the regulator. I rigged up a simple gauge to my low pressure out just to verify what my regulator was putting out. I only had to buy one fitting which was like $3 (already had the gauge). Maybe when your regulator is under "load" it may not be functioning properly.

I don't know if it has already been suggested but change the gas connector on your regulator. Simple, inexpensive way to take something else out of the equation.

Also, your poppets might be too tightly sealing. You said you have 6 kegs, so that probably isn't the case.
 

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