Brewmometer in M/L Tun

[ViciousGolden]

Ok, so as of now, I started doing BIAB because I wanted to get away from Extract. And, for giggles, I mounted a Brewmometer in my Keggle so that I can keep track of the mashing temp over the 60 - 90 minute process. I know it's really not needed but part of this hobby is geeking out over gadgets, so i just thought it would be cool....

Anyway, I picked up a ten gallon cooler to start building my M/L tun. I'm hoping to have that complete in a month or two so I only have to do another 1 or 2 BIAB brews. So, I thought I would move my Brewmometer from the Keggle to the cooler. When I made the Keggle, I welded in an extra coupler so I would be able to use a therm. So it will be easy to take it back out and just use the plug. The problem has been trying to find a weld-less bulkhead that will fit the cooler wall and mount the 1/2MPT thermo in it. During the process of looking, I have read a lot of horror stories that the Blichmann Brewmometer doesn't work well during the mast. People have been saying it it inaccurate. So, here are my questions..

1. Is the Blichmann Brewmometer really inaccurate in the mash?
2. If it is inaccuate, what should I be using?
3. Does anyone know how to mount the Brewmometer to a M/L tun?

For some reason, I really want a thermo mounted to it so I can actively monitor the temp. I'm that guy that will sit there for an hour, drinking beer, and staring at it making sure everything is on track.

 

[Varmintman]

I to have wondered about the mash temp and wanted to track it. I am wondering where to place the thermometer though. Heat rises so the top would not be accurate but by far the easiest to mount.

 

[eluterio]

Ill be keeping an eye on this ive got the same question.

 

[Boonie]

I used a plastic bulkhead connector from US Plastics, item # 12787 for my Igloo 10 gal coolers.
It's made of Polypropylene with a Santoprene gasket. (meets FDA standards)
I orientated it backwards (inside poking out) to give me the offset so the dial clears outer shell of cooler.
Used a 2-1/2" hole saw on the outside, and a step drill for the 1-1/4" hole inside.
Located the hole to the right of the valve, 2" down from the center bulge of cooler.
Sealed the exposed insulation with regular clear silicone.
Use duck bill vicegrips to tighten the 2" nut.

I also drilled a hole in the top center of lid and filled it with spray foam for better insulation.

 

[billybryson54]

I use a Blichmann Brewmometer in my 10 gallon Home Depot mash tun. After calibrating it, I took a non-drilled rubber stopper (I don't remember the size, but I do remember it was about 1 inch at its smallest point) and I drilled a 1-1/8 hole from the inside of the tun. Then I drilled a very tiny hole in the stopper itself (I think it was about 1/8'') that accepts the temp probe on the thermometer, but it is a very, very tight fit. Then I just installed the thermometer from the outside of the tun, the stopper installed from the inside of the tun. It creates a VERY tight seal, and water pressure on this actually makes the seal tighter

 

[billybryson54]

The only thing I should have done differently is that I should have lowered the thermometer down a few inches. I'm not really sure why I picked the height that I did, but it's just a little too high for me. My first all grain used only nine pounds of grain, and at 1.25 quarts per pound, The water was just BARELY touching the thermometer. Other than that, this works great for me. I won't take the credit for the idea though. I don't remember who, but someone else on the forum already did this. I simply copied and pasted.

 

[Pratzie]

actually looks like a great idea. Does it seem pretty accurate though?

 

[william_shakes_beer]

Remember, the only way to get an accurate temp reading is to first stir to redistribute the temps.

 

[billybryson54]

As long as you stir well, and calibrate your thermometer beforehand, you should have no problems. So far this has worked great for me. I calibrate mine every few batches just to be on the safe side

 

[Boonie]

I had considered the stopper method, but went with a bulkhead for several reasons:

1) I'm a bit clumsy, and feared banging it loose with my paddle. Didn't want sugar water in between inner and outer shell.
2) Bulkhead could be used to mount thermowell if/when I automate.
3) Bulkhead only costs $3.68.
4) I feared stopper on probe might throw off temp reading.
5) I use these bulkheads in many places all thru my system (my RO "water mfg plant" and my immersion primary fermenter chiller) and have spares around.

The stopper most people use is a 5.5 un-drilled. I didn't see them readily available at my usual haunts.
You can use a different size stopper, just look at size charts to determine appropriate hole size.
Freezing the stopper makes it easier to drill (so I've heard).

The height I used is somewhat of a compromise for doing both 5 and 10 gal batches, 3" from bottom of inner shell (for Igloo 10 gal).

 

[amandabab]

estions..

1. Is the Blichmann Brewmometer really inaccurate in the mash?
2. If it is inaccuate, what should I be using?
3. Does anyone know how to mount the Brewmometer to a M/L tun?

For some reason, I really want a thermo mounted to it so I can actively monitor the temp. I'm that guy that will sit there for an hour, drinking beer, and staring at it making sure everything is on track.

its accurate.
the best mounting in a cooler is to only use the inside wall for the bulkhead, so you aren't relying on compressing the insulation to seal. drill a big hole in the outer wall, clear out the insulation, drill the bulkhead hole install a thermowell and/or just the thermometer. sprayfoam behind the dial to replace the insulation and start mashing.

 

[Pratzie]

I had considered the stopper method, but went with the bulkhead for several reasons.

1) I'm a bit clumsy, and feared banging it loose with my paddle. Didn't want sugar water in between inner and outer shell.
2) Bulkhead could be used to mount thermowell if/when I automate.
3) Bulkhead only costs $3.68.
4) I feared stopper on probe might throw off temp reading.
5) I use these bulkheads in many places all thru my system (my RO "water mfg plant") and have spares around.

The stopper most people use is a 5.5 un-drilled. I didn't see them available at my usual haunts.
You can use a different size stopper, just look at size charts to determine appropriate hole size.
Freezing the stopper makes it easier to drill (I've heard).

The height I used is somewhat of a compromise for doing both 5 and 10 gal batches, 3" from bottom of inner shell (for Igloo).

Any chance of getting a pic of that?

 

[Boonie]

I just added some pics to my orig post.
Here is a pic of the tools used.
Note that the bulkhead has left hand threads, so tightening up the meter won't loosen it.
I didn't spray replacement foam, as I want to remove the fitting for cleaning. Don't want nasties in the threads.

 

[Pratzie]

What kinda false bottom is that? I like it!

 

[Boonie]

I'm liking that false bottom setup, also.
Didn't like the idea of having one attached with flexible hose (clumsy, remember?) so I bought that hardware at
Adventures In Homebrewing. Bulkhead seals nice. Rigid stainless tube keeps false bottom on the bottom.
And yes, that bottom is purdy. Seems to work well, too (so far).
The polysulfone QD is from US Plastic.