Siphoning away from hops into bottling

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HomeBrewerB

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So as many have said on the forum, secondary isn't necessary. So I threw the dry hops right on in and after about a week. I'm ready to bottle! Is there tips or tricks to make sure you don't get the hops? I don't have access to cold crashing.
Thanks!
 
Cold crashing wont do much for the hops anyways. I had the same problem when I dry hopped for the first time. What you can do for now is get some cheap nylons or cheese cloth and tie that to where you are moving the beer from.

Next time use the same nylon or cheese cloth to make a hop sack to get the oils from the hops without the broken down pieces in the bottles.

Anyways Happy Bottling and enjoy your brew!
 
Thanks man! This past week I figured out I shoulda used some sort of seeping bag
Would a coffee filter tied to the end of my auto siphon work?
 
Thanks man! This past week I figured out I shoulda used some sort of seeping bag
Would a coffee filter tied to the end of my auto siphon work?

That probably won't work too well... it will get clogged quickly. A clean cloth like T-shirt material will work good.
 
Thanks man! This past week I figured out I shoulda used some sort of seeping bag
Would a coffee filter tied to the end of my auto siphon work?

no need for the seeping bag.....toss it right in, where ready to bottle siphon it from primary to the bottling bucket and then bottle from there.
 
A hops bag does help keep the vegetative material from dispersing into the beer, but be careful, too small a bag won't allow for a maximum surface area ratio, thereby limiting the hops flavor and aroma.
 
image-2216811444.jpg



image-3188346317.jpg

Very interesting looking haha
Kind of a bubbly film shown in picture
Tons of floaty hops soidk what'll do
 
HomeBrewerB said:
I guess I'm just going to siphon it over to bottling bucket and hope that I don't get to many hops

I use(d) an old stocking that I cut the end off and soak in sanitizer with an elastic band. Tie this to the end of your siphon and siphon into your bottling bucket. Works a treat.
 
I use a gallon sized paint strainer bag tied to the end of my siphon. Works great and cheap @ hardware store.
 
The picture made it look very weird

It wasn't white at all in real life
The close up of it makes it look very strange but it had little bubbles with wht looked like little bits of hop matter. It was shiny on the top?
Infection?
 
The picture made it look very weird

It wasn't white at all in real life
The close up of it makes it look very strange but it had little bubbles with wht looked like little bits of hop matter. It was shiny on the top?
Infection?

Shiny on top is the hop oils, nothing to worry about, hops are naturally anti-septic, and if you're dry hopping it will help preserve the beer.
 
I second the idea that you should jut toss in the hops without a bag. It's easy with an auto siphon to just rack rack right out from he primary without the need for sacks. You might get a bit Of hop material transfer - but that is no bigdeal
 
I don't like floaters or grainy stuff getting into my bottles,so I use muslin hop sacks. No more than 1oz per sack of pellets. And I hope your beer was done fermenting at only a week or so!? The beer should be at FG first,& hopefully settle out clear or slightly misty.
 
I use a gallon sized paint strainer bag tied to the end of my siphon. Works great and cheap @ hardware store.

Exactly what I did to siphon 2 dryhopped beers this weekend. Works perfectly. I sanitized the bag and 2 zipties in StarSan before attaching to siphon.
 
seigex said:
Shiny on top is the hop oils, nothing to worry about, hops are naturally anti-septic, and if you're dry hopping it will help preserve the beer.

Yeah that's exactly what it was, thanks for the info
 
unionrdr said:
I don't like floaters or grainy stuff getting into my bottles,so I use muslin hop sacks. No more than 1oz per sack of pellets. And I hope your beer was done fermenting at only a week or so!? The beer should be at FG first,& hopefully settle out clear or slightly misty.

Sorry for being misleading. This was a IIPA that I let ferment for 3&1/2 weeks, then tossed in the dry hops for an additional week.
I started with .062 and used wlp super yeast that kicked its ass and had it the airlock bubbling the whole time but after a week with dry hops the FG. was .014 so I was satisfied.
Does anyonwknow what ABV that equals too? Like
6-7%?
 
It comes to 6.78% by Cooper's formula if I'm remembering it right. My Maori IPA looks like it's gunna be 3.5 weeks as well before it's ready to dry hop. Used US-05 too,guess this one just needed more time?...goes that way sometimes.
 
unionrdr said:
It comes to 6.78% by Cooper's formula if I'm remembering it right. My Maori IPA looks like it's gunna be 3.5 weeks as well before it's ready to dry hop. Used US-05 too,guess this one just needed more time?...goes that way sometimes.

Do you use us-05 for most all iPas and pale ale?
Thanks for all your help @unionrdr. You've come through with countless expertise and advice when I've needed it
 
Thanks. I have used Cooper's ale yeas for them in the past,but moved up to US-05 mostly now for IPA's,APA's,& the like. It comes out cleaner flavored. But it isn't as flocculent as Cooper's,so it takes longer to settle out clear.
 
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