Gemadrken
Well-Known Member
Heres a recipe i'm working on, i've never made my own wine recipe so i'm hoping you guys could pick it apart and tell me what is and isnt necessary.
I ordered quality wildflower honey and i'll be getting the best apple juice I can find. I'm looking to make a dry apple wine with a killer aroma. I'll be adding honey until I hit my gravity numbers
What I have so far:
-------------------------------------------------------
Honeycrisp Cyser (Recipe updated)
Predicted stats:
OG ~1.080-1.085
FG ~0.990
ABV ~11.81-12.47%
Yeast- Lalvin 71B-112
Fermentables:
-6 Gallons 100% Honey Crisp Apple Juice/cider (No preservatives or additives) (~1.040-1.050 gravity)
~6 pounds of Wildflower Honey (1 pound of honey in 1 gallon of water = +1.035 gravity) (however much it takes to reach desired gravity)
Extras:
2 Lalvin 71B-112 Yeast
X Yeast Nutrient (Based on staggered schedule/needs)
X acid blend (to hit 3.3-3.5ph)
X Tannin to taste (if necessary)
10 tsp pectic enzyme
6 Campden tablets pre fermentation or 1/16 tsp/gallon potassium metabisulphite
6 Campden tablets pre bottling or or 1/16 tsp/gallon potassium metabisulphite
*Honey is used instead of sugar until gravity target of 1.080-1.085 is reached
Primary fermenter: Wine bucket
Day (-1) (0 hours)
-Stir together honey and apple juice.
-Add crushed campden tablets (or potassium metabisulphite) and acid blend(if necessary) until PH is around 3.5. Stir and cover with a towel, leave for 24 hours.
Day 0 (24 hours later)
-Make sure PH is around the 3.5 range, and add 5g Fermaid-O and 1g DAP (Yeast nutrient), stir and pitch re-hydrated yeast
Day 1, 3, 5, 7, 8
-Stir and then de-gas
Day 2, 4, 6
-Gentrly stir and add 5g Fermaid-O and 1g DAP (Yeast nutrient)
*when degassing and adding nutrients do so slowly to avoid foaming
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/improve-mead-staggered-nutrient-additions/
Secondary Fermenter: 6.0 gallon glass carboy- Day 10 or under 1.020 gravity
-Do not stir, aerate or de-gas
-Rack to a new carboy every 60 days, or whenever sediment/lees becomes ¼” thick
-Over 3-6 months test wine for taste/aroma, add tannin to taste.
-Bottle when NO lees appears after 60 days and the cyser is clear
-When ready add 6/16 tsp potassium metabisulphite (if necessary) then filter wine and rack into bottles.
(*Recipe adjusted from original)
------------------------------------------------------
Is the yeast nutrient necessary? Is the tannin necessary? Is that enough Campden? Do my timelines look OK?
I'm looking to make a good summer wine; which is when I anticipate it will be drinkable. I'm bottling my first 3 wines in about 2 weeks but this is my first original recipe.
Or maybe this entire idea is horrible and I ought to just use my honey for a small batch of mead https://morewinemaking.com/products/wildflower-honey-6-lbs.html
^Thats the honey I ordered
------------------------------------------------------
Question #2: Should I use apple cider or apple juice? I can probably go get fresh honeycrisp apple cider because its harvest season in minnesota; would that be a good choice?
Also my de-gassing is done with a mechanical vacuum pump and my filtration is with this method:
http://www.winemakingtalk.com/diy-wine-filtering.html
I ordered quality wildflower honey and i'll be getting the best apple juice I can find. I'm looking to make a dry apple wine with a killer aroma. I'll be adding honey until I hit my gravity numbers
What I have so far:
-------------------------------------------------------
Honeycrisp Cyser (Recipe updated)
Predicted stats:
OG ~1.080-1.085
FG ~0.990
ABV ~11.81-12.47%
Yeast- Lalvin 71B-112
Fermentables:
-6 Gallons 100% Honey Crisp Apple Juice/cider (No preservatives or additives) (~1.040-1.050 gravity)
~6 pounds of Wildflower Honey (1 pound of honey in 1 gallon of water = +1.035 gravity) (however much it takes to reach desired gravity)
Extras:
2 Lalvin 71B-112 Yeast
X Yeast Nutrient (Based on staggered schedule/needs)
X acid blend (to hit 3.3-3.5ph)
X Tannin to taste (if necessary)
10 tsp pectic enzyme
6 Campden tablets pre fermentation or 1/16 tsp/gallon potassium metabisulphite
6 Campden tablets pre bottling or or 1/16 tsp/gallon potassium metabisulphite
*Honey is used instead of sugar until gravity target of 1.080-1.085 is reached
Primary fermenter: Wine bucket
Day (-1) (0 hours)
-Stir together honey and apple juice.
-Add crushed campden tablets (or potassium metabisulphite) and acid blend(if necessary) until PH is around 3.5. Stir and cover with a towel, leave for 24 hours.
Day 0 (24 hours later)
-Make sure PH is around the 3.5 range, and add 5g Fermaid-O and 1g DAP (Yeast nutrient), stir and pitch re-hydrated yeast
Day 1, 3, 5, 7, 8
-Stir and then de-gas
Day 2, 4, 6
-Gentrly stir and add 5g Fermaid-O and 1g DAP (Yeast nutrient)
*when degassing and adding nutrients do so slowly to avoid foaming
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/improve-mead-staggered-nutrient-additions/
Secondary Fermenter: 6.0 gallon glass carboy- Day 10 or under 1.020 gravity
-Do not stir, aerate or de-gas
-Rack to a new carboy every 60 days, or whenever sediment/lees becomes ¼” thick
-Over 3-6 months test wine for taste/aroma, add tannin to taste.
-Bottle when NO lees appears after 60 days and the cyser is clear
-When ready add 6/16 tsp potassium metabisulphite (if necessary) then filter wine and rack into bottles.
(*Recipe adjusted from original)
------------------------------------------------------
Is the yeast nutrient necessary? Is the tannin necessary? Is that enough Campden? Do my timelines look OK?
I'm looking to make a good summer wine; which is when I anticipate it will be drinkable. I'm bottling my first 3 wines in about 2 weeks but this is my first original recipe.
Or maybe this entire idea is horrible and I ought to just use my honey for a small batch of mead https://morewinemaking.com/products/wildflower-honey-6-lbs.html
^Thats the honey I ordered
------------------------------------------------------
Question #2: Should I use apple cider or apple juice? I can probably go get fresh honeycrisp apple cider because its harvest season in minnesota; would that be a good choice?
Also my de-gassing is done with a mechanical vacuum pump and my filtration is with this method:
http://www.winemakingtalk.com/diy-wine-filtering.html