American Pale Ale Nierra Sevada (Session SNPA Clone)

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I bet it would be delicious. More of an IPA than a SNPA clone because of the higher AA, but the late additions of Simcoe would make for a delicious and flavorful IPA. Might be good to bump up the malt some to balance it out.
 
I think I'm going to just sub out the late cascade addition with simcoe and dry hop with it to keep the ibu's down a tad
 
FWIW: I Went with:

10# 2 row
1# 60L
1/2# Flaked Barley

1/2 oz perle @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 30
1/2 oz cascade @ 25
1 oz Simcoe @ flameout
1/2 oz cacade @ flame out

Pacmac yeast
 
FWIW: I Went with:

10# 2 row
1# 60L
1/2# Flaked Barley

1/2 oz perle @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 30
1/2 oz cascade @ 25
1 oz Simcoe @ flameout
1/2 oz cacade @ flame out

Pacmac yeast

Nice! When I saw your first post asking about adding Simcoe, my first thought was at flameout or dry-hop.

My house pale ale is based on this beer. It's a malleable recipe. You can play around a bit with different malts and hops, and still get a very nice beer out of it.
 
FWIW: I Went with:

10# 2 row
1# 60L
1/2# Flaked Barley

1/2 oz perle @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 30
1/2 oz cascade @ 25
1 oz Simcoe @ flameout
1/2 oz cacade @ flame out

Pacmac yeast

When you add the final hops at flame out how much time to you wait prior to chilling the wort? I have not used Simcoe for flame out hops before so I am curious to see what the results might be like.
 
FWIW: I Went with:

10# 2 row
1# 60L
1/2# Flaked Barley

1/2 oz perle @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 30
1/2 oz cascade @ 25
1 oz Simcoe @ flameout
1/2 oz cacade @ flame out

Pacmac yeast

What size batch is this designed for? 5, 5.5, 6, 8 or 10 gallons? I might assume around 10 gallons to keep it session style but wanted ask what you did.
 
Quick question. I brewed this one back at the tail end of January and just got around to bottling it a couple of weeks ago. This is only my 4th or 5th brew so go gentle on me on the next bit. I harvested yeast from SNPA bottles and made a starter with that. Stepped up just fine and pitched it. Fermented completely (OG of 1.040 (missed it because this was my first go at AG. I've since learned from my mistakes and could probably hit it dead on) with an FG of 1.010) and got 3.94% ABV. Now comes the parts I'm not too sure about. Decided to put it out in my garage for a couple of days before bottling (ambient temp of about 45*F) to psuedo cold crash it (first try at it, just seeing how it worked out) then bottled it. When I was bottling, I noticed it had carbonation in it (I'm guessing because of the lower temp = dissolving some CO2 into the solution). Still added my priming sugar to get 2.4 Vols. Opened one today and this is my best carbonation job yet. But the flavor is kinda fruity. I'm not sure if it was the harvested yeast which I believe, from what I've read, is just 1056 or some part of my process. Still a great beer but not what I was expecting. Is that normal or did I screw up somewhere?

(Sorry that wasn't too quick)
 
Good job on that harvesting!! Fruity 'sensation' can indeed come from the yeast, if fermented at lower temp range for that strain. Therefore, what was your primary ferm temp?
 
Good job on that harvesting!! Fruity 'sensation' can indeed come from the yeast, if fermented at lower temp range for that strain. Therefore, what was your primary ferm temp?

The temp on my fermometer kept around 66-68. The Wyeast website says 60-66 will create mild citrus notes so I would venture to guess that may be it. It's not bad by any means just not what I was expecting.
 
I wasn't seeing activity from the blowoff tube so I cracked the top for a sec. Fermentation appears healthy and holy cow this smells great.
 
I'm going to brew an extract version on Monday using a 1056 yeast cake.

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.05 gal
Estimated OG: 1.045 SG
Estimated Color: 5.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 36.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 0.0 %
Boil Time: 70 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 7.7 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 2 7.7 %
5 lbs 8.0 oz Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 3 84.6 %
1.00 oz Perle [8.00 %] - Boil 70.0 min Hop 4 27.6 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 6.7 IBUs
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 6 1.8 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 Yeast 7 -
 
Good job on that harvesting!! Fruity 'sensation' can indeed come from the yeast, if fermented at lower temp range for that strain. Therefore, what was your primary ferm temp?

After another week or so of bottle conditioning, the "fruity" flavor has definitely tapered off and this brew tastes wonderful. Patience was the key for that.
 
Helly said:
I wasn't seeing activity from the blowoff tube so I cracked the top for a sec. Fermentation appears healthy and holy cow this smells great.

I just kegged this a few days ago. The sample smelled and tasted great. It's conditioning now. I think it's going to be a great spring/summer pale ale.
 
This looks very similar to one of my standby recipes. I also use Perle/Cascade and a similar hop schedule, although I do like to dry hop with cascade. Looks delicious!
 
Helly said:
I just kegged this a few days ago. The sample smelled and tasted great. It's conditioning now. I think it's going to be a great spring/summer pale ale.

Really enjoying this one. It's a great summer beer.
 
My LHBS has only German Perle hops, should I use it anyway or should I sub it with some other american hop variety (which I actually prefer so I could say it's an APA)?
 
sathrovarr said:
My LHBS has only German Perle hops, should I use it anyway or should I sub it with some other american hop variety (which I actually prefer so I could say it's an APA)?

Doesn't really matter. I would use them.
 
BM thanks again for this recipe. My keg is disappearing by the growler full with family parties this week. It's been a huge hit and I hope to brew it again this summer.
 
Helly said:
BM thanks again for this recipe. My keg is disappearing by the growler full with family parties this week. It's been a huge hit and I hope to brew it again this summer.

Keg kicked last night. I think I'm going to use the upcoming long weekend to brew a couple batches and I think this will be one of them.
 
First time poster in need of some help! This was my first all-grain batch, and my OG was WWAAAAAAAYYYYYY too low (1.029). I've read John Palmer's book several time (actually, I'm again going over the Mash chapter right now) and thought I had done everything right, but something obviously didn't come out the way it was suppose to. Never had this problem before, although this was only my 3rd 5-gallon batch. Here's the facts:

-Mashed in 4 gallons @ 149 for 65 mins (rookie mistake here, waited until 155 mash temp to add the grain, which brought it down to a lower temp... could this be the reason?) using a 5 gallon water cooler w/ custom drainage system.
-Sparged w/ 3.8 gallons @ 170ish temp. Used an initial recirculation of approx 1 gallon before the sparge.
-Initial wort gravity was pretty close to 1.030... forgot to record it.
-Boiled for 70 mins with the following hop schedule (36.5 IBUs):
.75 oz of Pearle (8.5%) for 70 mins
.58 oz of Cascade (7.3%) for 15 mins
.38 oz of Cascade (7.3%) for 10 mins
.38 oz of Cascade (7.3%) for 5 mins
-Pre-boil was approx 6.6 gallons, post-boil came out to about 5.25.. need to take better notes next time.
-Into the fermenter w/appox 4.6 gallons. Using 2 vials unhydrated White Labs American Ale (WLP-060); one was a little expired so I pitched them both thinking it couldn't hurt with the way everything turned out.

I used all local water (I have a water softener), so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I've wanted to get a water test done, but just never have. The only thing I can think of is the mash temperature. Obviously next time I'll dough in a little earlier to reach the proper temp. Other than the temp, it seemed that the volume of the water was a little much, but then again I did end up with a little under 5 gallons. Color looked about right, but that might just be my limited experience talking.

Any input or tips/tricks would be much appreciated.
 
Took an initial gravity reading immediately after the mash, but I didn't account for the temp. The actual OG going into the fermenter was at around 75F.
 
Took an initial gravity reading immediately after the mash, but I didn't account for the temp. The actual OG going into the fermenter was at around 75F.

What temp was your mash at? If your mash was like 160F, if you did a mashout then the compensated OG is about 1.049 If the temp was higher then the OG is higher.

Here is a good calculator to use.
http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/
 
What temp was your mash at? If your mash was like 160F, if you did a mashout then the compensated OG is about 1.049 If the temp was higher then the OG is higher.

Here is a good calculator to use.
http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/

I was planning on mashing at 155, however by the time I added the grains, it went down to about 145. I was able to bring up the temp by adding some hot water, but I was limited in by the tun's head space. Final mash temp held right around 149. Would this drop of 6 degrees make that much of a difference in the OG?
 
Mashed in 4 gallons @ 149 for 65 mins (rookie mistake here, waited until 155 mash temp to add the grain, which brought it down to a lower temp... could this be the reason?) using a 5 gallon water cooler w/ custom drainage system.
-Sparged w/ 3.8 gallons @ 170ish temp. Used an initial recirculation of approx 1 gallon before the sparge.
-Initial wort gravity was pretty close to 1.030... forgot to record it.

When did you take the reading, after the mash at 149 or after the sparge when you added the 170ish water?

1.030 at 130 is a gravity of 1.046, if the temp was after the sparge and higher then the gravity is higher.
 
I named it Nierra Sevada because it is essentially an SNPA clone recipe that I tried to explain to some friends and after a few pints of one of my other homebrews, "nierra sevada" was as close as I could get to pronouncing it.
Sierra Nevada Clone Recipe, SNPA Clone
This is a scaled down ABV version (My First 10-gallon batch) and will yield a nice session APA that is between 4.0-4.5%. I'll post results and pics when we have the final product.


********
Batch Size: 10.00 gal
Boil Size: 12.13 gal
Estimated OG: 1.046 SG
Estimated Color: 6.8 SRM
View attachment 1501
Estimated IBU: 37.4 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Time: 70 Minutes
Total Grain Weight: 17lbs
********

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
15.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)
2.00 oz Pearle [6.30%] (70 min)
2.00 oz Cascade [7.00%] (10 min)
1.00 oz Cascade [7.00%] (5 min)
American Yeast (I used Wyeast #1056)
Mash at 154 degrees (F) for 65 minutes. Batch Sparge at 170 degrees for a pre boil volume of 12 gallons.

View attachment 1877

Tasting Notes: This turned out absolutely fantasic. I hit 4.7% and the taste is slightly less malty than the orignal but the essence of grapefruit is just perfect. I've served it to several non-homebrew friends who do like to try different beers and they agree that it is a fantastic beer. Not a dead-on clone because of the lower malt level, but extremely close. The color is dead on and the bitterness just right. I did a 10-gallon batch . One five gallon keg has only been on the gas for 9 days and already near perfect carb level. The second fiver is sitting in a keg in the basement conditioning naturally (1/2 cup priming sugar). This is a definite brew-over.

Thanks for this. My wife brought me some of this last week while visiting the US. As I live in Canada we cant get SN beers here, and I love the APA, and have been looking to clone this by doing a partial extract. After reading everything here I think I have the recipe I am going to try. Just wanted to thank everyone that posted. Will post results after my summer closing party.
 
When did you take the reading, after the mash at 149 or after the sparge when you added the 170ish water?

1.030 at 130 is a gravity of 1.046, if the temp was after the sparge and higher then the gravity is higher.

Unfortunately, I didn't write down the gravity reading, but it was taken after the sparge. The one I was confused with was the starting fermentation gravity of 1.029. This was taken after the post-boil wort had cooled to approx room temp of 75 degrees.
 
ave8tor said:
Took an initial gravity reading immediately after the mash, but I didn't account for the temp. The actual OG going into the fermenter was at around 75F.

Your pre-boil gravity has to be less than your post-boil gravity. You are boiling off water and concentrating the wort sugars. So somewhere your readings are off.

The low OG (1.029) can be caused by any number of things including poor crush, mash temps, your water, mash ph, or inaccurate/uncalibrated measuring tools.

Next time:
compare your crush to other pics in the forum to make sure if is sufficient.
Use spring water (buy from store)-- Or research how the water softener affects the mash.
Pre-heat your mash tun & properly calculate strike water temp, so your mash rests at right temp (you started way too low).
there are probably other tips but keep reading on here & J Palmer and you will get it.

good luck!

edit: Welcome to HBT! (ps a recipe thread is not the best place to get beginner AG help/diagnosis. I'd start a new thread. cheers).
 
Tapped this a few days ago. I brewed with cascade and dry hopped in the keg with citra. SWMBO and I are enjoying it a lot.

image-3053316337.jpg
 
Brewing 10 gallons today but I'm changing up hops slightly to use what I've got in the freezer. Added a little centennial and citra to the boil along with the cascade. Loved it dry hopped with citra last time so I'm thinking of doing one keg that way and not sure on the second one yet.
 
I'm looking to brew 10G and split it into 2 corny kegs. I'd like to brew one batch according to this recipe but for the other batch somehow tweak it so I can see the difference a change in hops/yeast can make. Does anybody have any recommendations of good variations?

If it is a yeast change, I was planning on brewing all 10G at once. For a hop change, I was thinking of mashing the full amount (12ish G) and then splitting aside 6G to boil separately.
 
rjthomas21 said:
I'm looking to brew 10G and split it into 2 corny kegs. I'd like to brew one batch according to this recipe but for the other batch somehow tweak it so I can see the difference a change in hops/yeast can make. Does anybody have any recommendations of good variations? If it is a yeast change, I was planning on brewing all 10G at once. For a hop change, I was thinking of mashing the full amount (12ish G) and then splitting aside 6G to boil separately.

I've done it pretty straight up to this point. Last time I dry hopped in the keg with citra and we loved that. This time if did a mixed hop schedule including centennial and citra for one 10 gallon batch but it's not ready to go yet so I can't report on the results just yet. I'm not sure how a yeast change would go on this one. For me it turns out so clean and crisp with S-05 and I really like that so I'm more inclined to mess with the hop schedule or variety a bit. I'm very interested in what others have to offer though.
 
Made 2 extract 5 gallon batches this year. Once in May that was unadjusted or modified and was great for summer (1/2 in keg and 1/2 bottled) the LHBS recommended leaving the Cara-Pils/Dextrine out (no head :mad:).

Brewed it again in November added 8oz of Carafoam (LHBS ran out of Cara-Pils and Dextrine :confused:) and botched the pre-boil volume (post boil was 6.5 gallons instead of 5.5). My original plan was to split the batch 2.5 gallons in keg and Oak the other 2.5 gallons. Turned out fine with fermentation losses, keg got the full 2.5 gallons and oaked the last 3 gallons.

Felt like the aroma and flavor was lacking after 2 weeks in the keg so I dry hopped with 1/4 oz of Cascade and 1/4oz Citra. after 3 days it was pretty good figuring around day 5 to pull the hops out. (love kegs for this reason)

The oaked batch seemed fine (first time adding oak) at taste testing so some carbonation is the last factor (debated a cascade dry hop but did not want to add another variable to this batch).

:mug:
 
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