Fitting question - ideas?

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GreatBeerTour

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I am creating a single vessel ebiab and have a question- please forgive my stumbling description- thanks in advance

Picture the kettle- specifically the lid- hot liquid flowing through a hose into/through the top of the lid- so far so good?

now under the lid i want/need two places for the liquid go-
First drip/spray over the grain during the mash-
Secondly, at the end of the boil I want a tube to extend below the surface with a bend to swirl the wort.

I'm thinking about a fitting that will accept 1/2 copper and hold firmly- no need for holding pressure but firm enough to keep the pipe from falling out.

maybe a compression fitting with the ferrule replaced by an o-ring? is a 'quick connect' fitting what i'm looking for? something fairly simple- no tools- I know it will be hot-

Ideas?
 
IF you want to quickly and easily change out a fitting and have it be secure, I suggest a "quick disconnect". I personally like the "camlock" style but there are other designs made out various other materials.

I prefer to work through this vendor.
 
I have used 'that vendor' and have been pleased. A cam lock style fitting seems that it would protrude a far bit into the pot, I'm hoping to be a bit lower profile.
 
For a low profile you'd be stuck with NPT (which by the sounds of it, could be a hand-tightened screw on due to the fact that the pipe/hose doesn't seem to be holding any real pressure). Also, you could drill a hole through the lid of the pot larger than your fittings and the hose/connectors would be loose through the lid. Doesn't sound like you need a sealed system for what you're attempting. That way you could pull the entire hose/pipe assembly up and tighten it up with a hose clamp or something (ideally, you could use the larger diameter of a female quick disconnect) to prevent it from falling back through the lid. Could even sit on an appropriately sized silicon gasket, seal it up a bit.
 
I am (slowly) putting together an eBIAB setup and have been pondering this piece of the build, as well.

Have you considered using an NPT male to compression fitting? NPT through a hole in the lid with a cam lock for your external connection. On the inside custom bend tubes for either recirculating during mash or whirlpool. Since you will have the lid off between mashing and whirlpool you will have plenty of time to swap tubes after they cool off.

Since, as TheGoatman points out, this is not a high pressure application, you should be able to remove and replace the tubes without damaging the ferrules. You won't have to tighten them down hard after the first assembly. Or you might be able to install both tubes and just swap the cam lock, and put a cam lock cover over the input you aren't using.

Just a note though for whatever you put on the inside. I have found modestly priced tubing benders at consumer hardware stores max out at 3/8 inch.
 
Thank you for the feedback!

I have considered NPT and some internal fitting that gets screwed on and I'm leaning away from that. I want the "through the lid" portion to be more firm so when whirlpool time comes there won't be too much flopping around

At this point I'm thinking 1/2 barb on the outside and male cam lock on the inner then creating two inner connections- first for the sparge trickle recirculating- second a longer 'j' shape to whirlpool

The clencher was when I thought with threads I don't get predictable alignment.

I will return to highlight this portion of the build when I get there, until thin feel free to see the beginnings https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=584570
 
Time to resurrect this- I ordered the parts from the aforementioned vendor- thanks Bobby, quick and reasonably priced. The pictures are pre-soldered and show the arrangement. I will be creating some sort of wort sprinkling holes after soldering, testing along the way.

**What I need help with- the lid is thin- the threads do not provide a solid connection point the way a bolt and nut would- what to do? A washer or two? the gap is almost 1/4 inch- ideas?

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I would put a fender washer on both sides of the lid. This will fill up the gap and provide support so the lid doesn't bend around the hole.
 
Maybe a pipe thread lock nut would fit the bill?
If you could get the fitting through the lid tight with the lock nut, then any gap after that won't matter. I did this with an old false bottom I once had.

I'm a bit late to the thread, however. Maybe a union fitting will allow for easy change over? Could even go through the side wall so the lid can be used as a lid. Look in without disturbing any of the setup
Like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-C...gclid=CJ33vf2Ats8CFZSIfgod7UcHrg&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

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