First time treating water and using Bru'n Water, help needed.

[DonGavlar]

Hi all,

So as I've gotten through batches of beer, I've looked to improve on my beer every time. First jumping into all grain, then cooling in 10 mins, then ferm temp control, then extra effort in clarifying my beer. So now my next move is water!

For my next batch and batches from then on, I will be using RO water and then building up a water profile from scratch using Bru'n Water. I've spent some time trying to learn the ins and outs but I'm still a little confused and just needed a little helping hand to get going.

I'm going to be making a white IPA, I read about these online and became intrigued so I thought I'd build up a recipe and give it a try.
The recipe I'm using is:
7lbs 8oz - Pilsner
2lbs 6oz - Torrified Wheat
1lbs 4oz - Wheat Malt
6oz - Flaked Oats

And then from then on a whole lot of citra and amarillo hops scheduled as you would on a normal IPA including a 2oz dry hop. A total IBU of 62.

So, my first question is.. what profile would I use for this seeing it is a mix of 2 beers. At the minute I have yellow balanced selected but I didn't know what else could fit it. Should I use a different profile to bring out the hop flavor more?

My second question is.. As I'm using RO water, do I completely ignore the water report and sparge acidification tabs?? Seeing as I wont have a report report on my RO water.

And finally, my last request is could someone take a look at what I've done so far and let me know what I can do better?

As you can see, I've gotten my number quite close I think. However, I can't get my calcium down to 50 without either making bicarbonate even lower into the minus or making one of the other chemicals be thrown off. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm struggling here!

 

[Kaze]

So, my first question is.. what profile would I use for this seeing it is a mix of 2 beers. At the minute I have yellow balanced selected but I didn't know what else could fit it. Should I use a different profile to bring out the hop flavor more?

If you are doing an IPA and you want the hops to shine, go for the Pale Ale profile. If you want a little more malt, go with the Yellow Dry profile.

My second question is.. As I'm using RO water, do I completely ignore the water report and sparge acidification tabs?? Seeing as I wont have a report report on my RO water.

You are correct. Dilute 100 with RO like you did.

As you can see, I've gotten my number quite close I think. However, I can't get my calcium down to 50 without either making bicarbonate even lower into the minus or making one of the other chemicals be thrown off. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm struggling here!

From what I have read, you don't have to worry about the bicarbonate. I use 100% RO water as well. I'll attach the profile that I use for hoppy beers. Add about 3oz of acid malt to your grain bill.

 

[DonGavlar]

If you are doing an IPA and you want the hops to shine, go for the Pale Ale profile. If you want a little more malt, go with the Yellow Dry profile.



You are correct. Dilute 100 with RO like you did.



From what I have read, you don't have to worry about the bicarbonate. I use 100% RO water as well. I'll attach the profile that I use for hoppy beers. Add about 3oz of acid malt to your grain bill.

View attachment 554314

Ok so numbers dont exactly have to be dead on. Good to know the bicarbonate doesn’t matter as much as thats the one im having trouble with.

A couple other things while you’re here. I had someone tell me to use the yellow bitter profile, but i don’t have it for some reason? Ive seem other people use it but mines not listed.

And also do you mix all you minerals into all of your RO water or just into your mash water? Also do you mix it into the water and then heat it up or do you just add it into the mash or what? Sorry, completely new to water treatment.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Yooper]

Use the pale ale profile if you'd like- but I like less sulfate in mine, like 150 ppm or so. So I'd do the pale ale profile but with half the sulfate. You can always add more next time, but you can't take it out! I'd leave out the epsom salt completely (you don't need it), and reduce the calcium chloride to keep the calcium in the 100 ppm range.

You can put all of your salts in the mash water if you want- but it can drive down the mash pH, so make sure you have that accounted for in Brunwater.

There is no ideal amount for bicarbonate- only the amount that gives you the proper mash pH. For a white IPA, I'd target a mash pH of 5.4 or so, for nice "bright" hop flavor.

 

[Kaze]

I believe the "Yellow Bitter" was renamed to "Yellow Dry" in the newer spreadsheet.

My process is a little different than yours since I full volume BIAB. I just dump all of the minerals into the mash water. Having the water hot makes the minerals dissolve much faster. I did dissolve them in cold water before but it took longer. I believe I added them to the jugs of RO water the night before and let them sit, and they were pretty dissolved by the next day.

Here is a good read on the bicarbonates and sparge water: linky

 

[DonGavlar]

Thanks guys, appreciate the help!