First time all grain critique

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

will_rouse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
104
Reaction score
5
I have done 10 plus extract batches. I have read every book and online article I could get my hands on, and I have watched more videos than a porn addict but just to ease my mind I shall post a checklist and please, please, PLEASE critique until your hearts content because I'm doing an all grain batch tomorrow

1: Preheat water
2: Preheat MLT
3: Add strike water(170 degrees)
4: Dough in
5: Check temperature and add water until proper temp (150 degrees)
6: stirring every 15 minutes; Mash for 60 minutes
7: Vorlouf
8: Drain into boil kettle
9: Add sparge water until it is 1inch above grains(170 degrees?)
10: Sparge until boil volume is reached (7 gallons for an 5 or 5 and a half batch?)
11: boil as normal

Please correct me of anything seems crazy off I'm doing the Dead Ringer IPA kit from northwestern. Is there any rest I need to take or temperatures that seem off? I know I've seen this kind of post on here before I'm just trying to triple check.
 
you can sparge with water hotter than that. it'll help with efficiency too. as long as the grain bed is less than 170 degrees and ph is in check then you won't extract tannins.
 
IL1kebeer said:
you can sparge with water hotter than that. it'll help with efficiency too. as long as the grain bed is less than 170 degrees and ph is in check then you won't extract tannins.

Yeah sparging temps was something I was a tad bit confused on because there seems to be different ideas on tannin extraction. But I boil my specialty grains so I don't see why I wouldn't work on a larger scale.
 
well 180 degree sparge water should leave your grain bed under 170, probably close to it depending on the amount of grains and other factors. i wouldn't use boiling water or water close to 200 though. even 190 might be pushing it. unless you can check and correct your PH you should just worry about keeping your grain bed as close to 170 as possible. it makes the grainbed more fluid which helps with the sparge.
 
Boil volume will depend on the size and shape of your BK, the humidity, and how hard you boil it. If you've done 10 extract batches, you should have a pretty good idea of your losses over a 60 min boil. I've been doing 4.5 gal batches, and boil 6 gal.
 
Yeah sparging temps was something I was a tad bit confused on because there seems to be different ideas on tannin extraction. But I boil my specialty grains so I don't see why I wouldn't work on a larger scale.

I don't know for sure about extracting tannins but I don't think you ever want to boil grains.

You will also want to watch the timing on your fly sparge. You want to go slow. It should take 45 minutes to an hour.

You might also want to run your strike temperature through a calculator. I used 163 degrees today shooting for 152 and got about 151.
 
+1 for the sparge temp. That was a big hang up for me too. Def want it a lot hotter, the mash will drop it to 170.

And another +1 for checking your strike temp. It's all related to the grain temp, target temp and mash tun temp. You don't want it to be too hot. If it's close to 170 during the mash, you'll kill the starch conversion and end up with a completely wasted grain bill. Trust me, I've done it twice this year. (Though from a different cause.)
 
For my sparg water holder I'm using a 5 gallon igloo cooler so I wouldn't have to buy another kettle if I add my Sparge water in there (180 lets say) should I expect a big temp drop? And if not how long could I keep my water at the right temp in the HLT?
 
For my sparg water holder I'm using a 5 gallon igloo cooler so I wouldn't have to buy another kettle if I add my Sparge water in there (180 lets say) should I expect a big temp drop? And if not how long could I keep my water at the right temp in the HLT?

That cooler should be able to hold it within 1 or 2 degrees for an hour or so. if you are having problems then try to insulate it with a sleeping bag or some towels.
 
So about 163 for strike water, and 180 for sparge water. And to be clear strike water goes in a little at a time while doughing in correct?
 
The required temp of you strike water is dependent on the type of system you use. For me, 170 degree water gets me to a 150 degree mash temp pretty consistently. For others (and according to Beersmith most of the time) 163-168 seems to be more the norm.
 
will_rouse said:
So about 163 for strike water, and 180 for sparge water. And to be clear strike water goes in a little at a time while doughing in correct?

I always put all the strike water in first and then add the grain slowly but I've heard of it being done the other way around.
 
Everything went amazingly smooth! I hit my mash temp right on the head and I sparked at 180. Thanks for all the help! Now if this rain will hold off its boiling time!!
 
Back
Top