1st Batch Brewed: Fermentation?

[bsig83]

Hello, this is my first post on my first batch brewed! Got a couple questions/concerns with the steps I took and the fermentation process.

I brewed a Double IPA batch from a Brewers Best Kit. Since I heard the yeast in these kits can be old (exp. 4/2014), I decided to do a yeast starter anyway. The dry yeast is Safale S-05. I used a pint of water and 1/2 cup of LME boiled, cooled, pitched yeast in a Erlenmeyer Flask put stopper on with airlock. Fermentation began within 24 hrs, peaked at 72 hrs with a nice yeast cake on the bottom. I waited 4 days to pitch in wort, about 24 hours after peak.

Before pitching I was sure to aerate the wort thoroughly. The OG of the wort came in at 1.070.

After about 48hrs of the fermentation process I had little to no bubbling in the airlock. I decided to open the bucket lid and saw an inch or so krausen. Looked good to me. So it seems fermentation has begun but im concerned with the lack of bubbling in the airlock. I stored the bucket in a closet and seems to be holding a steady temp. of 72 degrees.

Ive considered buying more yeast but I don't know if I should just be more patient. I figured the yeast starter would be eating the wort like a starving animal. Should I check the gravity? Not sure what the next step I should take.

Greatly appreciate any tips! Thanks!

 

[twistr25]

The airlock bubbling is irrelevant. If you saw krausen you have fermentation. Let it sit for at least 10 to 14 days from pitching, period. I assume you'll be dry-hopping? If so, you can transfer to a secondary and dry hop there or just toss the hops right in the primary (I'm doing that today in fact).

 

[MonsterBrew]

While the bubbling is a sure sign of fermentation, it is not a sure sign of no fermentation. Twistr25 has it right, give it 10 to 14 days, then you can analyze it.

 

[julioardz]

Tip 1, lower the temperature. 72F is pretty high for most yeasts when doing an IIPA. I only have Belgian yeast strains go that high on occasion. It may already be too late. US-05 will throw some esters if you ferment warmly. Tip 2, don't make a starter for dry yeast. It's best to rehydrate in clean water only, then add to your wort. Tip 3, as stated, airlock activity means very little. It will bubble if the wort/beer temperature is rising just like it will bubble if it is releasing gas. It may not bubble at all if there is no tight seal. If you see a krausen and your gravity drops over the next few days, then you know for sure it's fermenting.

 

[fortyseven]

No point in adding more yeast. Measure the gravity; that will give you a good idea as to how fermentation's progressing. It's more than likely probable that the majority of the fermentables have fermented out already. Just put the beer in a cool, dark place and leave it there for 10 - 14 days. Resist the urge to open it. Let it be.
Whatever happens though, relax, don't worry. Everything will be just fine.

 

[bsig83]

Appreciate the tips! I think Ill move the fermenter in the basement to lower the temp a bit. I debated on using the secondary but after I peaked at in the fermenter there was some hop pellet crud on the krausen. Would it be beneficial to use a secondary in this case? I don't think i'll be using pellets again, whole leaf from here on out.

I didn't even think of dry hopping just because it was a kit but I suppose it would help for sure.

The airlock tips make me feel a whole lot better. Should I just check the gravity in 10-14 days and again a couple days after that to see if its the same or not? Im assuming that's how you know it is done fermenting, right?

Just curious, on the yeast starter....I wouldn't think it would hurt to do a starter with dry because your just making the yeast count higher. Whats the reason not to?

Thanks again!

 

[dstranger99]

^ Dry yeast is manufactured to pitch dry..........

 

[julioardz]

on the yeast starter for dry yeast...
There are different threads on the topic on here. Here's a recent one. This is asking a slightly different questions about first rehydrating dry yeast, then building a starter with it, but within the thread it's explained why you shouldn't add dry yeast directly to wort or a starter. Basicaly put, the wort damages the dry yeast causing some of them to die off vs. rehydrating it first.

Even rehydrating first and then building a yeast starter from that is not recommended there. From my experience, I get the quickest and cleanest fermentation from rehydrating dry yeast and then pitching that slurry into the wort. I've also gotten good results from rehydrating, adding that to a large starter, then pitching the yeast from the starter into my wort, but I can really say how much my yeast actually multiplied. I just stick to rehydrating 1, 2, or 3 packages of dry yeast, depending on what pitch rate calculators tell me.

 

[stratslinger]

There's absolutely no harm in making a starter from rehydrated dry yeast. It's just that dry yeast is so cheap that it's usually cheaper, in terms of money and time, to pitch 2 packets of yeast instead of doing a starter. But it's certainly a good habit to get into - just try to research your proportions for future attempts. Generally speaking, you're shooting for a starter to be in the neighborhood of a 1.040 SG - the easiest way to hit that is a ratio of 1L to 100g DME, and most folks who swear by starters keep a few pounds of extra light DME on hand specifically for the purpose.

As for tracking your fermentation, you're on the right path. Try to keep the fermenter itself in the mid to upper 60's (US05 is quite happy around 65-68F) for that 10-14 days, then check the gravity like you suggested. And the hop pellets you saw hanging out on your krausen? By the time fermentation is done, those will have dropped out and they'll be burried in your yeast cake. As you'll see by then, there'll likely be no need to transfer to secondary - but whether to do so or not is really up to you (not gonna get into that debate here!). Keep on using those hops pellets - there's a lot of reasons that damn near all of us use them!

As for dry hopping or not, there's plenty of time to still pick up a packet or two of hops for dry hopping. But, this being your first brew, I'd suggest you stick to the recipe as designed, and wait until you're a little bit more familiar with things before you start making your own tweaks. But again, that's just me, and it's another one of those things that's really up to you in the end.

 

[julioardz]

...and as far as the hop pellet crud, don't worry about it. It will drop to the bottom as part of your trub once fermentation is complete. Some of it may stick to the sidewalls of your fermentor, but I get perfectly clear beer with no hop gunk, and all I use are pellets during the boil. I also dry hop with pellets, but I put those into a hop bag so that I can easily pull them out once I am done with the dry hop stage.

 

[glugglug]

Don't make a starter with dry yeast.

I recommend sticking to the recipe the first time you make it. After that tweak the things you want to change like dry hopping for more aroma. But decide this after you've had a few pints.

I suspect, as others have that you don't have a tight seal, and the pressure is getting relieved somewhere else besides airlock. Put your beer in a place in your house that is dark, and cool, but with an ale not so cool that fermentation stops. Try keeping it below 70 especially in the early stages of fermentation.

Buckets are easy, and convenient, but a clear bottle like a better bottle, or a glass carboy would have allowed you to see the kraussen, and for that matter active yeast in the beer without needing to open the lid. I love my glass carboys, but are heavy and can be slippery. I bought a brew hauler, and it is one of the best investments to make if using glass.

I used buckets for a long time. So many ways to make upgrades. Decisions. It's fun to actually see the activity in the fermenter though.

Best advise is relax...

 

[bsig83]

Awesome, great tips everyone! Maybe I was a little too hard on hop pellets out of the gate haha. Duly noted on the dry yeast rehydration. Sounds much easier to just buy more packets for dry yeast. Well I feel much better about the batch and also my future batches! Thanks again you guys are great! I love this freakin website

 

[glugglug]

For a 5 gallon batch, you only need 1 packet. Doesn't seem like a lot, but it is.