I have a problem. There is a 1 and 1/8" hole in my kettle. How to plug or patch?

[Abhitchc]

To make a long story short, I got a boiling kettle with a perfectly round 1and 1/8" hole on the side, near the bottom. I obviously need to plug it, or more preferably, patch it. I do not have access to any fancy welders, but I do have a torch. What would be the best way to fix it? Cut a patch and use silver solder?

I am pretty lost here.

thanks

 

[dmcman73]

Get a weldless bulkhead for that size hole similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFGLO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 and a Stainless steel plug you can thread into it..done.

How high is the hole? If it's midway then you can install the weldless bulkhead and do something useful with it like thread a thermometer into it. If its really close to the bottom, like an inch or two, install a valve for easier transfer.

 

[rekoob]

You could also install a coupler via the dimple/solder option then use a reducer and put a valve in that... again depending on where the hole is. I think you have some options here.

 

[Abhitchc]

The hole is about 1/2" from the base of the kettle.

Can you send me a link to the correct parts to do the repair, keep in mind that the hole is 1and1/8" in diameter. What is a "dimple"?

thank you for your suggestions

 

[DaleHair]

You could silver solder a spud and add a valve or plug. The 1/2" spud takes a 1-7/8" hole

http://brewhardware.com/fittings/120-spuds

 

[Abhitchc]

You could silver solder a spud and add a valve or plug. The 1/2" spud takes a 1-7/8" hole

http://brewhardware.com/fittings/120-spuds

Oh LaLa! I like that. It would be functional too!

I bought one. Great. Thanks everyone!

Given how close the hole is to the base of the kettle, it would be a bad place to put a probe thermometer, correct?

 

[Bobby_M]

You could silver solder a spud and add a valve or plug. The 1/2" spud takes a 1-7/8" hole

http://brewhardware.com/fittings/120-spuds

Correction! The 1/2" spud needs a 1-1/8" hole.

 

[DaleHair]

Correction! The 1/2" spud needs a 1-1/8" hole.

eh, brain thinks one thing and fingers type something else.

 

[forstmeister]

Um, correct me if I'm wrong here, but the placement of the hole makes it sound like it was drilled to install a ball valve for easy draining of the boil kettle. Why don't you just put a ball valve in with a kettle screen behind it to transfer your wort to your fermenter and save yourself lots of trouble?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Sounds to me like the hole was drilled for an electric element?

 

[Bobby_M]

1-1/8" suggests that they were going to weld in a 1/2" NPT coupling.

 

[dmcman73]

Sounds to me like the hole was drilled for an electric element?

That's what I was thinking, 1 1/8" hole is too big for any type of bulkhead and valve. Now an electric heating element, that sounds about right. Plus, it's way to close to the bottom for a valve.

 

[LandoLincoln]

So yeah, go electric with it.

 

[DaleHair]

An electric element would need larger than 1-1/8, more like 1-3/8

 

[tre9er]

An electric element would need larger than 1-1/8, more like 1-3/8

I believe mine was 1.25" or so at the end of it all. I just filed a bit and it was snug.

 

[Abhitchc]

The hole is the perfect size for an electric heating element, but I do not want to take that route (portability and having to use a 220V socket (correct me if I am wrong here!)). I ordered a 1 and 1/ SS spud with a 1/2" NPT female end.

The hole was originally drilled for a 1/2" NPT fitting, but obviously, it is far too large.

I will install a ball valve in the hole. :cross:

 

[tre9er]

The hole is the perfect size for an electric heating element, but I do not want to take that route (portability and having to use a 220V socket (correct me if I am wrong here!)). I ordered a 1 and 1/ SS spud with a 1/2" NPT female end.

The hole was originally drilled for a 1/2" NPT fitting, but obviously, it is far too large.

I will install a ball valve in the hole. :cross:

110 is a viable option but not for large batches, unless you use two elements like I do.

 

[Abhitchc]

110 is a viable option but not for large batches, unless you use two elements like I do.

Almost all batches will be ~5-6 gallons...maybe a 10'er somewhere in the future.

Can you point me in the direction of a 110?

 

[tre9er]

Almost all batches will be ~5-6 gallons...maybe a 10'er somewhere in the future.

Can you point me in the direction of a 110?

I've done 5g batches with a 1650w element, though it will take a bit to get up to boil. I'll have to find what brand of element I have, but it's a ULWD foldback.

Here it is:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNICCO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[wilserbrewer]

I would be leery of trying low wattage in a keggle, I have a hunch that the mass and large surface area of the keggle robs quite a few watts intended for the brewing. Just guessing you would need two elements to use 120v, say between 2000w - 3000w total. (ball park)

 

[tre9er]

I would be leery of trying low wattage in a keggle, I have a hunch that the mass and large surface area of the keggle robs quite a few watts intended for the brewing. Just guessing you would need two elements to use 120v, say between 2000w - 3000w total. (ball park)

Isn't that what I said? I use two elements, 3150 total watts, to do 9.25g batches and I boil vigorously. But I've done 5g batches with 1650 before. Takes a half hour to get to boil from sparge temps.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Isn't that what I said?

Um maybe...sorry man.

Do you make 5 gallon batches in a keggle w/ just 1650w? Since the OP is using a keggle, I have reservations that 1650w will boil 6-7 gallons in a keggle, I have never done it, but fear the large surface area and mass of a keggle could defeat 1650w. If you have boiled 6-7 gallons in a keggle with 1650w, my apologies...