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devils4ever

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Okay. I've got my upright fridge setup for my fermentation chamber using my Johnson controller. I have a Dry Stout recipe using Wyeast Thames Valley yeast. So, what's the proper procedure? Start at 62F or 64F for a few days and then raise to 66F or 68F?

I might do a lager for the first time. What's the procedure for that?

Thanks.
 
I've done a lager, but not a dry stout. I moved my wort into my fermenter at 55, pitched a large yeast starter and let it start at 55 for 24 hours. Then I fermented at 52 until the gravity fell to a few points above my expected final gravity - about 2 weeks. I them moved fermentation temp to 65 for three days. Afterward I moved the beer into corny kegs and kept them at 35 for 5 weeks. I dry hopped 10 days before serving. The lager turned out great.
 
Anyone else? Info on ale temps?

Also, I can get my wort down to 68F with my IC. Do I put the carboy in the fridge and wait for it to drop before pitching the yeast? Or, pitch right away and let the temp drop over a few hours?
 
It's better, if you can, to get your wort to 2-4 degrees below your desired temp, pitch, then let the fermentation warm your beer to the desired ferment temp.

You can start warm and try to chill it to ferment temps. I have to do that sometimes with lagers and during the hottest part of the summer if I am in a hurry. The main risk you run there is chilling too fast and sending the yeast into dormancy. You can address this by warming back up a bit. It just increases your lag.

If you have the time an patience, I would try to chill the beer before you add your starter so that you decrease the chance of off flavors from a hot ferment.

Pitch a couple of degrees low, free rise into your ferment range. Then as fermentation begins to slow, bump it up another 3 or 4 degrees. This allows the yeast to attenuate fully, then clean up any off flavors it might have left behind
 
Anyone else? Info on ale temps?

Also, I can get my wort down to 68F with my IC. Do I put the carboy in the fridge and wait for it to drop before pitching the yeast? Or, pitch right away and let the temp drop over a few hours?

Fermenting ales in general is easier for me because by basement stays about 65 year round - maybe cooler in summer because the A/C in the house creates cool air that drops into the basement. I ferment ales in the 64 - 68 range, but I've never fermented a dry stout, so that may be different. The yeast you use should have a temp range and that would be a good guide.

I'd get the wort down to pitching temp first and the pitch.
 
As mentioned before, ideally you want to chill your wort to at or below your fermentation temperature prior to pitching the yeast. I used to have the same problem where my ground water was not cold enough to cool my wort down enough. What I did is used a pond pump and a cooler of ice water and would recirculate that through the immersion chiller. I picked up a pump from home depot for about $30.
 
I've done a lager, but not a dry stout. I moved my wort into my fermenter at 55, pitched a large yeast starter and let it start at 55 for 24 hours. Then I fermented at 52 until the gravity fell to a few points above my expected final gravity - about 2 weeks. I them moved fermentation temp to 65 for three days. Afterward I moved the beer into corny kegs and kept them at 35 for 5 weeks. I dry hopped 10 days before serving. The lager turned out great.

Not to hijack this thread, but did the dry hopping cause any clarity issues with your lager?
 
Ales, cool down to at or slightly below the bottom of the temp band for that yeast. Once I see signs of active fermentation (so within about a day), I ramp up a degree or 2 per day until at the top of the temperature band for that yeast.

For lagers, I chill down to about 44ish, when I see signs of fermentation I ramp up t0 50 over a few days. When It's about 2/3 done, I ramp up to mid sixties over a week and leave it there until I get around to kegging. Then lager in the keg for however long the beer calls for, typically a month, higher gravity will lager longer. I'm pretty sure this is about what JZ recommends in brewing classic styles, that's where I got it from.
 
Things are going well. I placed my stout wort in the chamber set to 64F yesterday. Today the fermentation is calm enough that I don't need my blow off tube. So, I replaced it with my airlock. Nice!

My wort temperature is also about 64F. I don't see any temperature rise. In a day or so, I'll raise it a few degrees.

EDIT: I keep this setup in my garage and it's supposed to get into the 30's tonight. I hope it doesn't get too cold since I don't have anything to heat the chamber. I'm hoping keeping the door closed will keep the heat in! Otherwise, I may need to run out a buy a heating pad or something.
 
@devilsforever. What size upright fridge are you using? Also what kind of controller and how much? I've seen controllers used for aquariums. Thanks
 
@devilsforever. What size upright fridge are you using? Also what kind of controller and how much? I've seen controllers used for aquariums. Thanks

It's a smallish upright top freezer model in the 14 - 15 cu ft range. I'm using a Johnson A419 controller.

This AM the garage was about 40F but inside the fridge it was about 64F. So, maybe the fermentation is generating enough heat to keep it warm.

I do have a seed germination heat pad. If the temp drops, I could use this to boost the temp during the cold overnight period.
 
Interesting. I am looking to get a 4.5 cu ft fridge. I was wondering if a Carboy with a airlock would fit. U want to use that to control my fermenting. I don't have a lot of room to do this.
 
Interesting. I am looking to get a 4.5 cu ft fridge. I was wondering if a Carboy with a airlock would fit. U want to use that to control my fermenting. I don't have a lot of room to do this.

You should measure before purchasing. I think this might be a little tight.
 
Yea. I will have to. It's gonna be close. Not sure what else I could use due to space. Really don't want to use a cooler with bath water if I don't have to. Any other ideas. Space is a issue right now.
 
I put a seed germination heat pad in the fridge this evening to see what would happen. The temperature started to rise right away. A little too fast.

This is a 90 W unit, so I guess this is too much. I'm guessing that I need less than 25 W. Maybe, I can use a light bulb (shielded to not expose the wort to the light)?

Are there any mechanical engineers out there that can calculate this? I know there a lot of variables such as heat loss, outside temp, etc. But, anyone take a shot at this calculation?
 
With an ale, I wouldn't mess with it too much. Worst case fermentation sticks a little. When the temperature rises your yeast will wake back up. I have a lot of trouble with this in the winter. My fermentation chamber is on the cold side of the basement. On a couple brews I've had to move them over by the furnace to let the temp come up a little higher and the bubble started again.

Also remember that fermentation is an exothermic reaction so the temp inside the vessel may be a couple degrees higher. I've done a couple brews with my controller set 2-3 degrees below the low end value and had no ill effects aside from fermentation activity being a little slower and taking a little longer.

I made an Oatmeal Stout with that yeast this past winter with my controller set at 62*. Turned out great.
 
Thanks for your experience on this. This morning I saw the fridge temperature at 58F. Hopefully, the wort is at least a few degrees warmer. I'm guessing the fermentation is slowing a bit and not generating as much heat.

Temps are supposed to warm over the next few days, so hopefully this will not be an issue any more.
 
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