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Only thing I've heard about not stirring during the Mash refers to not opening a cooler to stir often because of temp loss.
I'm planning to build an electric boiling tun. The plan is to use 2 x 3000W water elements on 240V (245V exactly) and control it manualy. BUT!.. with this amount of amp (24.5A), I can't use an ordinary rheostat. Some guys here in the forum seems to use an PID thermostat, but i don't figure how you can obtain an consistant boiling. A friend of me, told me that thyristor dimmers could sustain this intensity. I seek the web, but it wasn't conclusive. Later, today, i was seeking again and i found this :
http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/wa/wcat/itemdtl.r?listtype=&pnum=GT3A-3AF20-IDEC
Is this suitable for this application. If you set it in the lowest delay range, it could give an consistent boiling without excessive fooling and evaporation rate.
I also want to weld the 1'' locknut that fit for water element on bargain fittings web site, anyone ever try this or have better ideas?
My uneducated guess would be that Pol is saying heat sinks are not measured in amps, but by the amount of heat that they can dissipate?. . .The 25 amp heat sink only handle 15 AMP.
Any one knows if the 25 AMP SSR fits on 40 Amp heat sink at Auber Ins. The 25 amp heat sink only handle 15 AMP.
Using a PID is easy.
Use the MANUAL mode, set the cycle time to 1 second. Then you simply control the boil with % output. I use 70%. That is 70% on and 30% off, the entire cycle is 1 second, it sustains a boil perfectly.
A huge dimmer is going to cost you dearly.
I am a little confused.
We are talking about running (2) 3000W elements, right?
So to control (2) 3000W elements, would you run (2) SSRs?
If so you will only have 12.5A coming across each SSR
I would think that a 25A SSR and the more compact 25A heatsink would certainly suffice if you are using (2) SSRs
If you are talking about running both elements across ONE SSR, I mean you are really looking at sending 25A across a 25A SSR?
That SSR probably will not last long, you are going to hammer it with the max amp draw. The general consensus has been been to size the SSR one size larger than the MIN necessary for your build. Losing an SSR mid brew session can be a real inconveneience.
I guess to me it seems like the plan to send all of the current across one SSR is a bad design. And if you utilize (2) SSRs, you really do not need more than a 25A heatsink on 25A SSR becuse you will be sending across so little amperage.
The 1 second cycle is just 70% ON then 30% OFF. It is a really simple cycle.
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